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Dane Lance

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  1. Yeah, that's the only video of his I've ever seen him use that tuning fork, maybe there's some humor there that I just didn't get. I like his stuff, he makes some really nice patterns and manages to make some nice looking stuff from all sorts of random metal pieces.
  2. He didn't hit the fork during the quench, he did it while he was heating the blade to quench temp. As if he would get a certain tone when the blade was at the right temp.
  3. I pretty much thought this was some hokus pokus, but just never seen it before. I know about the north south thing and had a bit of a chuckle the first time I heard about that. Lol, it's entertaining, if nothing else.
  4. I've watched quite a few videos by a Russian fella on youtube (channel name: shurap). Guy makes some crazy good looking damascus from all sorts of stuff, but in one particular video where he's making "dragon breath" damascus, during the heat treat, he is holding the blade in a long holder that has a tuning fork on the end. Right before he pulls the blade out of the forge, he strikes the tuning fork. I assume this is some method of determining the blade's temperature for heat treat? I've never seen that before. Here's the video. You can jump to the heat treat at the 8:00 mark:
  5. Good point, I hadn't considered forging to shape might be an issue.
  6. Makes perfect sense. Sounds like it's a little tedious with having to seal things up to prevent chromium oxide. And yes, a san-mai construction is what I've seen. Carbon migration looks to be visible in the region where the two metals are welded and the bevels ground on the blade (and that is part of what makes them look so nice). It would also seem that the right flavor of stainless is needed too. I looked at some coefficients of linear thermal expansion for carbon and stainless steels. While the plain chromium grades have similar CTE values as carbon steels, the austenitic grades are around 1.5 times higher. Also, thermal conductivity for stainless is a bit less than carbon steel, so that could be a big problem with warping or cracking during a quench. I could see the carbon steel core possibly pulling completely loose or maybe even splitting. I'd say an edge quench would be the way to go. However, even with what sounds like a recipe for doom, some folks are doing it and making some awesome looking knives. Lol, I guess there's a couple ways to go about this...read more, see what other info I can find...or just go try it!
  7. Did some looking here, but haven't found much. Did some looking on youtube as well and there are a couple of videos of some folks successfully forging stainless to high carbon, but not much on the actual process or how they did it. Anyone here do it? Is it terribly difficult? Are there any benefits to it? I'm kind of more curious about it than anything. The examples I've seen made for some beautiful knives.
  8. Couple possibilities: Round the finger area with the heel still swept back some, also a slight drop to the tip: Or, continue the finger round down along the heel and a slightly more aggressive drop on the tip:
  9. "San" in Japanese is "3." "Go" is "5." Shino-Japanese 1 to 10: Ichi - 1 Ni - 2 San - 3 Shi - 4 Go - 5 Roku - 6 Shichi - 7 Hachi - 8 Ku - 9 Juu - 10 "Mai" is Japanese for "sheet." In terms of knife making or billet making, we'd probably translate it more as "layer." But, more or less the same thing. So, "San-mai" is "3 sheet", "Go-mai" is "5 sheet", etc.
  10. Ok, when I get a chance, I'll bust out the lens and do some pics of metal sanded with various grits. Kinda doing a major clean up/rearrange of the wood shop right now and have some hand tools that got a little rusty and need to get them cleaned up.
  11. Honorable mention It's more than just a piece of thread....
  12. Hmmm, grain pics. I didn't think of that. I might have to give that a try.
  13. JohnK got it, denim. Actually, it's the first picture I ever took with the lens when I got it. I dialed it out to 5x, and just rested it on my leg and took a picture of the jeans I was wearing at the time.
  14. I happened into macro sort of by accident. Years ago I always wanted a decent camera and early in my military career I bought a Canon AE-1. But, as you may well know, good lenses are not cheap. Add to that the cost of processing film, and well, I never went much further than just basic snap shots. As digital came around I wanted one of those, but they were big time pricey. Later, after I'd married and had children, I found a guy selling an Olympus C3030 (an early 3 megapixel point and shoot), so I bought it. Discovered it had a "macro" mode and I started playing with it. I went around the yard taking macros of various bugs (and there were a lot of bugs in Texas!). The kids thought it was a hoot, so every time they saw a bug they'd holler for me to go get the camera. It sort of became a "thing." Now, many years later, I bought a nice Canon body (T3-i) and the Canon 70-200mm EF f/2.8 zoom. My son was playing high school football and I needed a fast lens to get pictures at his games in the low light. I then bought the MP-E 65 and the MT-24EX macro flash thinking I could do some nice macro. Yeah, that lens has a big learning curve, especially anything over about 2x for hand held. Sadly, I haven't even used it for several years now. Just no time really as I have too many other things going on. I'm actually considering selling the lens and flash and putting that money into tools and things for the shop or perhaps a nice camera drone (DJI Mavic Pro 2) as it would be great for filming my boat racing (I race C-Class hydroplanes in APBA sanctioned races around the country).
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