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Bjorn Gylfason

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Bjorn Gylfason last won the day on January 3

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About Bjorn Gylfason

  • Birthday December 13

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  1. I have been contemplating wether to etch or punch a makers mark on my things and leaning more to the punch. But the main question is what kind of steel would be preferable for such a tool?
  2. Except for wrapping a couple of sword grips this is pretty much my first leather project and the results are as expected. But the knife has a usable sheath now.
  3. Handle shaped and polished up. Now I have to learn how to make an acceptable sheath as well
  4. Thanks, I downloaded it already Starting on the handle, copper and what is supposed to be ebony but I'm not entirely convinced yet, seems very very brown where ground on the belt sander. This is so much smaller than what I usually do so having a hard time figuring out the size and shape of the handle to flow with the blade
  5. After a bit of sanding and etching in vinegar
  6. I've had the steel for it for months now but finally manned up yesterday to try and see if I could get my forge hot enough to do it. Made a small 8 layer billet as this was just a test so no sense to waste too much material. Tig welded it together and let it soak a while before tapping it on the anvil and again into the forge to soak. Drew it out on the power hammer and everything seemed alright but as I had doubts I drew it a bit longer and twisted it. Squares it, cut it in half welded and twisted again the other direction. In retrospect the twisting caused a huge loss of material and I should have knocked the corners if the bar down to reduce cold shuts but I did end up with a small billet of solid steel. This is by far the smallest blade I have ever done but is still 15cm long It still has a couple of tiny cold shuts visible but going to finish it anyway as I need the practice in making small handles as well
  7. Just used an oxy acetalyne torch to heat them up for the brassing. The guard I brassed before mounting and peening it to the sword but the pommel after it was peened solid to the tang. I like to have both the guard and pommel peened to the sword before setting the grip on. Not nearly as convenient as sliding the grip on and then the pommel but this way all the metal parts can be completely solid without either pressing the wood of the grip or risk having it rattle
  8. Began on this one last Monday to see how fast I could make a decent piece. Originally thought I was going to make a french style long dagger but as I worked my mind wandered as is usual It's overall length is 72cm with a blade length of 56cm. I wanted a stiff thrusting blade so the distal taper is quite minimal and linear going from 7mm at the guard to 3mm near the tip. I did pay for that stiffness with almost 100grams more weight than I had aimed for at 746grams of total weight with the point of balance 5cm from the guard. It still feels so very light and nimble. Just recently found a place I could buy solid brass wire wheels and that was my main excuse for brassing the guard and pommel to add a little bling and I think it goes nicely with the red grip. The grip yes, my leather skills are still quite lacking as I prefer messers and their wood grips so far from perfect but it's getting better each time
  9. I love messers and this one is beautifully made. did you braze the pommel to the tang ?
  10. And finally it is finished Not a true recreation of the original but rather heavily inspired by it. It came out a little heavier than I planned and I could have ground out a lot more material out of the tangs fuller to compensate as its point of balance is 9cm from the guard compared to the originals 13cm. But overall I am happy with it and like to think I managed to catch some of historical imperfections and think this will be the first blade I will put up for sale
  11. Ground and filed all the small parts to shape. The guard is hammered down onto the tang from the tip and is really just a glorified bolster. Fitting the wood was time consuming as I have never done a hilt quite like this before. It's remarkable how difficult it is to source local European hardwoods that would be historically plausible while I can get any kind of exotic woods within a day. Boxwood would have been perfect but after a bit of research beech is also an acceptable wood and I did happen to have a bit of that in my shelves. The original had rolled iron pins holding the grip but decided to go with brass, and yes those rivets are not pretty but do their job. I filed the nagels shaft conical so I could hammer and wedge it solidly into the tang through the grip and then peened it over the backside. Right now I only have to make the nails that go into the front of the guard, clean it up a bit and give it an edge so optimistic that I should have a finished sword by tomorrow
  12. Have the hilt components forged to shape. I really do have to get better at that, specially when using material like this wrought that I can't just go out and buy more of
  13. Cleaned up the fullers and have the blade to a very rough 150grit and the next steps are making the guard and pommel. I am a little bit scared of it as I don't have much of the wrought iron and it's not like I can just go and order some more so will have to make as good use of it as possible
  14. Took a little break today and started working on the fullers. They are both deeper and narrower than the ones I've done previously so new methods had to be tried. Started by making a simple scraper from the same kind of leaf spring as the blade is made of that kiiind of worked but just wasn't biting enough and dulled fast. Ended up breaking a chainsaw file to use as a scraper and even though it works slowly I have better control of it. This is definitely going to take a while
  15. This looks great. Do you have better pictures of the platen so I can better understand it?
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