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Bjorn Gylfason

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Everything posted by Bjorn Gylfason

  1. I like to think of myself as an alright bladesmith but I'm a mediocre blacksmith at best so those were a nice and simple way to make the quillons a little bit more interesting
  2. Second sword of the year finished. I found a blade in my ever growing pile of unfinished things and finally got an idea in how to finish it. I'd like to call it a hand and a half sabre but opinions might vary 88cm long blade and overall length of 110cm 8mm thick up at the guard and has a non linear distal taper to 3mm 5cm from the tip Point of balance is 9cm from the guard and point of percussion is right in front of the fuller 56cm from the guard Quite beefy at 1615grams and it has a strong appleseed edge, false edge from fuller to tip is sharp as well. Grip is
  3. I like the aestethics and the very functional forms of them but damn I love those tapers
  4. Got the scabbard dyed and greased so next up is the suspension. Still haven't completely decided wether to go with a baldric or a belt
  5. Got most of the tooling on the leather done today. Hope to finish the chape tomorrow and see if I can add some tooling details on the leather visible through its windows before dyeing. Been trying to visualize how I could do brass straps in between the risers but that is still a future me problem
  6. I did manage to clean it up with a really sharp chisel and various Dremel bits And now I have a thing that's impossible to take pictures of Next up is to cut out some motifs on the front and try not to ruin it
  7. I do think the idea is good. Would be even better for someone that actually knows how to braze I did manage to get everything into one solid piece but it's going to be a lot of clean up and fixing in a couple of spots. Anyone have a good technique to get excess solder off?
  8. For the chape I began with sawing and grinding a piece of azobe to the same shape as the scabbard. Cut out oversized 0.7mm brass sheets and rolled the top edges before shaping them down on the wood block. Then came the fun part of grinding and filing down the seam edges until the halves became a very snug fit on the scabbard. Wired them together and silver brazed them most of the way. Got the idea of adding some overlay pieces on the seam just to make it all unnecessarily difficult And cut down a short brass rod and shaped it on the grinder for
  9. Got the last piece sewn on so I think I'll start making templates for the chape next
  10. Decided to make the cover in three sections to make it more manageable. Starting from the bottom I skived the edge that will get overlapped by the next section. Soaked in water and formed it around while trimming down to size. Then brushed wood glue on the wet leather and sewed it on with a very simple running stitch. Next up will be the fun section
  11. Leather risers added and small wedges around the smaller sheaths to add stiffness and backing for the covering
  12. Wet formed and sewed the inner sheaths for the by knife and pricker today so now they have to dry for a day or two before gluing them onto the scabbard core.
  13. Today I finished shaping the handle scales and decided to add some washers to the pins for that little extra bling. Gluing them on a piece of steel rod make filing them so so much easier Peened the pins and cleaned it up a bit and think the sword itself is pretty much finished. So now on with the scabbard
  14. Today was spent filing and shaping the nagel. Instead of making it one whole piece I drilled into it for the pin that goes through the crossguard and silver brazed it in place. All this brazing has me itching to start a new project with a complex hilt that would be brazed Hand sanded the blade up to 600 grit and gave it a sharp appleseed edge. Getting it sharp at this stage was a questionably wise choice but it's just so much easier without the hilt getting in the way. I originally wanted to brass sections of the nagel and guard and then blue the rest. Heat bluing give
  15. I really like the idea of different materials on each side of the handle and love the carvings
  16. Brazed the pommel on to the tang and that went better than expected. Having the crossguard slide on from the tip has it's benefits
  17. This makes me yearn for some good biltong. Great idea
  18. Was waiting for more elforyn to arrive for the handle scales so thought it might be a good idea to get a few more grams out of the tang with some rope filework. And finally got around to starting on the nagel after scratching my head about what style it should be in. Getting awfully close to having to put the final finish on the pieces and assemble them
  19. Pommel is down from a little over 600 grams to 217grams and nearing it's final shape. Been trying to push the point of balance as far forward as I can and right now it is at about 12cm from the guard
  20. Pricker done as well so now I can make the sub sheaths for them. Before I can then glue them to the core I have to figure out exactly what kind of suspension system I'm going with so they don't get in the way. The scabbard core got its linen wrap glued on today as well. It's pretty amazing how much stiffness a couple of layers of this thin plywood add while keeping the scabbard thin and very light. Ground fullers in the tang to shave off unnecessary weight there and might distal taper it a little bit towards the pommel. Got a little bit more fil
  21. This is the right kind of rustic, lovely pieces indeed
  22. Glued and clamped the backside plyw on the scabbard this morning and got the by knife close enough to finished to make a sheath for it so next is the pricker. As the current plan is for a relatively high status kit I went with faux ivory for the scales
  23. You can never own to many clamps Glued and clamped the front plywood sheaths today and will leave them clamped until morning and then put the back ones on. After much thinking and fitting I think I'm only going with one by knife and pricker as having a second knife would make the scabbard feel a little bit cluttered Milled a short slot on some scrap brass for the pommels and then a small hole to peen them in place. Might even go overboard and solder them in place as well. I don't want to spend too much time on them but they will still have to l
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