Apostolis Melas

Yes and especially the big one I wanted it to be the shape of the cut to withstand, because it will be used as a small ax. Now I think that hardening has become difficult to change.

Yes .. of course. To add that the handles are of dried almond tree ... For my first attempt I started the big blade where it bothered me a lot during both forging and thermal cycles so that the temperature was the same everywhere.

David and Goliath made of leaf spring.

Yes I saw this color phase clearly. Most importantly, I was sure of the temperatures I was working in. I wouldn't have managed it without your help and patience.

And at last I saw this color movement..I still noticed that after and while the metal was almost losing its last colors cooling down, some very fast color strips I could barely see .. I was ecstatic .. What was that.. Wishes for a Merry Christmas from Greece ..

So since decalecense is the ideal one we should try to follow it when shaping steel into anvil; or only in tempering and hardening; Thanks for the help guys ..

Thanks again Charls..I will try to distinguish it and indeed the room I forge has low lighting. Do we have to follow this phenomenon in any forging cycle or only during normalization and hardening?

Sorry for the letters..

Thanks Charls, though I wonder these moving colors on the blade while in the forge are as distinct as it is when you pull the blade out.

Greetings from Greece. Starting in the field of forging preferring recycled metal and especially leaf spring automobiles. But I am literally missing out on so many different things I've heard about the right method I have the basic equipment and the only way to control the temperature is a magnet. The order I follow is: forging triple normalization hardening tempering at 200 ° C Is it okay up here? I have noticed that metal is best forged if I let it pass the non-magnetic heat field for a while.Is that correct? What is the temperature of the metal when it is in the non-magnet