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David Pessall

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central PA, USA
  • Interests
    Metal work on small home machines, Competitive rifle shooting, of course knives

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  1. Thank you for the insight. Neither of the lines were cut with a groover. Just the blunt tool that it comes with. I used that same tool for the stitch line. Then used stitching irons for the holes. I watched a lot of videos before going this direction. I personally like this way better than the round holes. Probably shouldn't of gone over the line more than once. It just didn't look deep enough. These are the first 2 that I put those on. I know the stitches aren't even as I pulled some harder than others. The backstitches are something to desired as well. That's a tough skill to master, but I'll practice some more. I've only made 5 total sheaths while learning with each one. I have very thick skin and welcome criticism. I haven't intended to sell at all...for now. I want to try stamping and carving on sheaths as well. I may make these over again. Or just make more knives to make more sheaths! Thank you again...I do appreciate it!
  2. Here's the latest in my sheath making. On left is a saddle tan. On the right is chocolate, it almost looks black. Hand saddle stitched. Both have a nice welt sewed in as not to cut the threads. These turned out fairly well I think. Learning on each one! Need to make another knife to try stamping/ carving leather.
  3. Here's the 1st attempt at a sheath. I don't have any hole punches but a 44 Magnum case was the right diameter. My dye only arrived yesterday. Not sure if I'll dye this one at all. I have 3 more knifes like this I made. The next 3 will get dyed. What do you think? Thanks for the help!
  4. The other abundant material I have on hand is PB102 phosphor bronze rods. Mostly .125" and .188" diameters, a few a little bigger. I figured the drill rod would look better. The bronze does sand easier! I'll put a hard backer to sand a little more. Thanks
  5. A little more work. The pins are staying a little proud of the scales when sanding. They are made from drill rod. It's what I have a lot of. Having issues around the finger guard. Keep having to take more off each side after doing the other. Light sanding really with 400 grit. Hard to keep them even. It's getting smaller and smaller. Suggestions? Should this be in another thread section?
  6. This is my 6th knife made...almost finished. It's O1 tool steel with maroon and black G10 scales, drill rod for pins. Working this since Friday afternoon. Just epoxied this afternoon. Finish shaping handle tomorrow. This is my 2nd attempt at a small skinner. Other knives are small 3 finger size. I actually like those little ones.
  7. I ordered the DVD. I'll wait to watch it before I buy any tools or leather. Thanks again
  8. Reason for question... I want to be able to stamp initials into my blades. I really didn't want to stamp before heat treatment because of all the sanding afterwards. Can you spot heat the area with a pin point flame where you want to stamp? Thinking it would be a lot less clean up, plus saving the stamp. How would it effect the heat treatment if done in a small area? What else am I missing? Pic is another little finger knife I made in progress...with my initials stamped after heat treatment. Not best practice. Thanks again... David
  9. What type sheath for small knife for a beginner with no experience in leather work or tooling? I've read a bunch and leaning towards a basic pouch type. Picture of knife. It's small...overall length is 4 inches. Would it be better to have at a slight angle if possible? Thanks again, David
  10. Brian, Do you mean a piece of brick back in the forge to lean against? I had it pulled out like this just to get picture. Usually it's all the way in.
  11. I use long needle nose vise grip pliers to hold the blade while it's in the brick forge. By the time I get to the quench the pliers have opened up and bent barely holding onto the blade. I tried beating them back together. Didn't work so well. Looking for something to hold them while in the heat. I'm not making anything very big. I'm only using O1 tool steel (1/8" and possibly 3/16") and bandsaw blade (15N20 I believe). It doesn't take long for the steel to get red/ orange hot. I haven't just let them sit in the brick forge. I keep moving the blade back and forth thru the flame and hold in the back for a minute or two. Suggestions for a tool that won't bend while in the heat? Thanks again
  12. What do you think? Thinking this will become my mark.
  13. Epic failure at this! Trying to salt water etch O1 tool steel after heat treat. That maybe my 1st mistake. I've watched the YT videos and the tutorial here. I used an battery charger and saturated salt water. It bubbled and smoked. I did this this several times. The spot left looked black and etched. I used fingernail polish and scratched a logo in it. Let dry and apply charged q-tip with salt water with the correct connections. Positive on blade, negative on q-tip. When cleaned off it had left just the slightest hint if any that I had done anything at all. Does this way not work on O1 steel? Can you metal stamp O1 while red hot? Then back into heat before quench? Or is this another topic? Thanks again
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