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David Pessall

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  • Location
    Central PA, USA
  • Interests
    Metal work on small home machines, Competitive rifle shooting, of course knives

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  1. Here's what I've been putting on Knives and sheaths. How many of you go thru the process of trademarking marks and logo's ?
  2. How do you store your steel flat bars? Currently I have some O1 tool steel in 36 inch lengths standing in a rack. Seems a couple have bowed a little bit. My space is very limited. Would it be better on a shelf of some kind? Not sure where I could find that space. Thanks again for your help
  3. I've been looking for a mini benchtop surface grinder and don't see too much. I don't have the space for a floor model. I don't need a very big one to do knife blade material. Currently I just flatten on the belt grinder. It works okay besides grinding the tips of my fingers occasionally! Some of the O1 tool steel I have isn't completely flat. I'll most likely not make anything bigger than skinning knives about 8" overall length. Anybody see anything that might fit what I'm looking for in the U.S.A.? Thanks again
  4. Where can I find gold colored scale material? I'd rather it be micarta or G10, or similar.
  5. After a bunch of poly coats. Here's what I've got. The metal has a yellowish color from the ploy. If I were to take this off the tang it would ruin the entire finish! How was I supposed to apply this finish. The pores are obviously filled in now. I did have a oops moment while cleaning up the front the blade where meets the scales and rubbed bairly with 800 grit paper. Now it's dull!! The wood will never be used again in my house!! Unless stabilized. Thoughts?
  6. Thanks for the advice. This blade has been scrapped!
  7. Here's my latest project. O1 tool steel, maroon linen micarta scales, stainless steel pins and lanyard tube. Sheath dyed burgundy with colonial tan tiger thread, hand saddle stitched. Thoughts?
  8. Seems like some of the pores are larger than the Grand Canyon!! Thanks for the advice. I'll keep putting them on in thin coats. It'll probably take 10 coats. But even with 1st seems better than Tru Oil. Thanks again
  9. Put a coat on Xmas eve. Dunked it and wiped off excess. Didn't look better. Sanded down again and dunked again and wiped off excess with an old T shirt. Hopefully with the second coat it'll take a smooth look. Minwax Helmsman. Thoughts?
  10. I've completely sanded down to bare wood, from 400 grit through 3000 grit. There might be a tiny bit left in the big pores. What poly would you use? I'm not going to go the Tru Oil route again on this piece. Thanks again
  11. Ok, so I've put 10 coats of Tru Oil on these Amboyna scales after sanding to 800 grit. The pores weren't filling in. I sanded it again down to 600 grit with Tru Oil to a slurry. Some of the pores filled in with that treatment and some not so much. Just put the 1st coat on after stel wooled the Tru Oil. Lots of pores still show. I realize this takes some time but after 2 weeks and not getting any better. Am I doing something wrong with this wood? I've used Tru Oil several times before with no issues. Driving me nuts! Any thoughts on this wood? I've never worked with it prior. Thank
  12. Yes, the stamping is purely decretive. There's a welt between the inner and outer leather where the stitches are. That's what keeps blade from cutting stitches. I've not of the wood either. Guy sent it to me. Had to look it up...LOL That wood kinda looks like it.
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