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David Pessall

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central PA, USA
  • Interests
    Metal work on small home machines, Competitive rifle shooting, of course knives

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  1. After a bunch of poly coats. Here's what I've got. The metal has a yellowish color from the ploy. If I were to take this off the tang it would ruin the entire finish! How was I supposed to apply this finish. The pores are obviously filled in now. I did have a oops moment while cleaning up the front the blade where meets the scales and rubbed bairly with 800 grit paper. Now it's dull!! The wood will never be used again in my house!! Unless stabilized. Thoughts?
  2. Thanks for the advice. This blade has been scrapped!
  3. Here's my latest project. O1 tool steel, maroon linen micarta scales, stainless steel pins and lanyard tube. Sheath dyed burgundy with colonial tan tiger thread, hand saddle stitched. Thoughts?
  4. Seems like some of the pores are larger than the Grand Canyon!! Thanks for the advice. I'll keep putting them on in thin coats. It'll probably take 10 coats. But even with 1st seems better than Tru Oil. Thanks again
  5. Put a coat on Xmas eve. Dunked it and wiped off excess. Didn't look better. Sanded down again and dunked again and wiped off excess with an old T shirt. Hopefully with the second coat it'll take a smooth look. Minwax Helmsman. Thoughts?
  6. I've completely sanded down to bare wood, from 400 grit through 3000 grit. There might be a tiny bit left in the big pores. What poly would you use? I'm not going to go the Tru Oil route again on this piece. Thanks again
  7. Ok, so I've put 10 coats of Tru Oil on these Amboyna scales after sanding to 800 grit. The pores weren't filling in. I sanded it again down to 600 grit with Tru Oil to a slurry. Some of the pores filled in with that treatment and some not so much. Just put the 1st coat on after stel wooled the Tru Oil. Lots of pores still show. I realize this takes some time but after 2 weeks and not getting any better. Am I doing something wrong with this wood? I've used Tru Oil several times before with no issues. Driving me nuts! Any thoughts on this wood? I've never worked with it prior. Thank
  8. Yes, the stamping is purely decretive. There's a welt between the inner and outer leather where the stitches are. That's what keeps blade from cutting stitches. I've not of the wood either. Guy sent it to me. Had to look it up...LOL That wood kinda looks like it.
  9. Here's a new sheath finished over the weekend. Knife isn't done yet. Handle is taking forever to fill pores in (Amboyna).
  10. Going to call this done. O1 tool steel, deer antler scales with brass pins. I did peen the pins gently and all held together with G/flex epoxy. A buddy of mine gave me the antler he shot a few years ago. This will be going to his son who hunts with him.
  11. Thank you. I didn't stabilize it, but rather hogged out 90% of the marrow. I'llfill it with G Flex epoxy. It's an older antler and your right...it's pretty tough stuff.
  12. This is my first attempt at using deer antler for scales. Once it's all done...do you seal it with anything? With the bumps on the antler I was planning on taking most of the off but leaving some color. Taking down more than what it is currently. This is a wip at the moment. Thanks again...
  13. There's some great replies in this thread for me and anyone else using O1. I really appreciate you helping me out! In the future I will most certainly be normalizing prior to hardening. Also, cooling down before going into oven for temper. This blade came out very straight. Again thank you all for taking your time with me! I'm still new and learning all the time and excited about it!
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