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David Pessall

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Everything posted by David Pessall

  1. I haven't been able to find much else. Who's everyone using to get their stencils? Thanks
  2. For stock removal knivrs do you grind everything away or use a bandsaw to remove the majority of material for outside shape? Seems like a lot of grinding and belt wear.
  3. Has anyone used Stencil Stop products? Thoughts? https://stencilstop.com/products/custom-reverse-stencils
  4. Soo...where are you getting your custom stencils from? Thanks again David
  5. So not such a great idea when you figure the price. Just wanted an alternative to wasting good knife steel. I'll stick to the 01 for now. I haven't used anything else yet. I can heat treat it in my basement. Still learning!
  6. Thanks for the replies. I have an old air brush compressor someone gave me. Thinking of uses for it. I might give it try on my bench top mill as well. Thanks again!
  7. Would you think one of those air brush compressor work for a wet mist system on your belt grinder? They're small, quite and put out about 40 psi or so.
  8. Would you use the cheap box store steel to practice on grinding knives? Especially to get the right bevel angles
  9. I don't have an etcher perse .. just a battery charger with the Q-tip method is what I going to try and use after reading the link.
  10. I've been looking for someplace local to make the negative stencils. Where are you getting them from? I emailed Kinko's after I couldn't find anything and I've heard nothing back in a few days.
  11. Does anyone use an engraver to put their makers mark on the blade? I had ordered a stamp with a very simple design of just my initials. After 6 blades being stamped it's already flattened out. I'm stamping non heat treated O1 tool steel. Instead of stamping what would you suggest using to engrave simple initials? I have a dremel with the flex shaft and grip. What size and type of bit would work for this? How about the diamond tip small round bit? Or something completely different? Thanks again, David
  12. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Black Fox Pro 2x72 belt grinder. I only do stock removal for knives. Thoughts?
  13. Can this be applied to O1 tool steel after heat treatment?
  14. From what I've read all over about Resolene is to mix it 50/50 with water. I used it like that on a couple sheaths now. They look pretty good (I think). Straight Resolene will make it shiny and most don't want that on a sheath. It will darken the leather...just a little. Put on a couple coats. Drying in between coats. Helps this helps.
  15. Thank you for the insight. Neither of the lines were cut with a groover. Just the blunt tool that it comes with. I used that same tool for the stitch line. Then used stitching irons for the holes. I watched a lot of videos before going this direction. I personally like this way better than the round holes. Probably shouldn't of gone over the line more than once. It just didn't look deep enough. These are the first 2 that I put those on. I know the stitches aren't even as I pulled some harder than others. The backstitches are something to desired as well. That's a tough skill to master, but I'l
  16. Here's the latest in my sheath making. On left is a saddle tan. On the right is chocolate, it almost looks black. Hand saddle stitched. Both have a nice welt sewed in as not to cut the threads. These turned out fairly well I think. Learning on each one! Need to make another knife to try stamping/ carving leather.
  17. Here's the 1st attempt at a sheath. I don't have any hole punches but a 44 Magnum case was the right diameter. My dye only arrived yesterday. Not sure if I'll dye this one at all. I have 3 more knifes like this I made. The next 3 will get dyed. What do you think? Thanks for the help!
  18. The other abundant material I have on hand is PB102 phosphor bronze rods. Mostly .125" and .188" diameters, a few a little bigger. I figured the drill rod would look better. The bronze does sand easier! I'll put a hard backer to sand a little more. Thanks
  19. A little more work. The pins are staying a little proud of the scales when sanding. They are made from drill rod. It's what I have a lot of. Having issues around the finger guard. Keep having to take more off each side after doing the other. Light sanding really with 400 grit. Hard to keep them even. It's getting smaller and smaller. Suggestions? Should this be in another thread section?
  20. This is my 6th knife made...almost finished. It's O1 tool steel with maroon and black G10 scales, drill rod for pins. Working this since Friday afternoon. Just epoxied this afternoon. Finish shaping handle tomorrow. This is my 2nd attempt at a small skinner. Other knives are small 3 finger size. I actually like those little ones.
  21. I ordered the DVD. I'll wait to watch it before I buy any tools or leather. Thanks again
  22. Reason for question... I want to be able to stamp initials into my blades. I really didn't want to stamp before heat treatment because of all the sanding afterwards. Can you spot heat the area with a pin point flame where you want to stamp? Thinking it would be a lot less clean up, plus saving the stamp. How would it effect the heat treatment if done in a small area? What else am I missing? Pic is another little finger knife I made in progress...with my initials stamped after heat treatment. Not best practice. Thanks again... David
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