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David Pessall

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Everything posted by David Pessall

  1. Here's a review that will help you. They're a quality tool that should last a very long time. Not affiliated at all. I like the way it cuts right thru thick veg tan leather. Pricking Iron Review Part 20 - Kevin Lee - French Iron - YouTube Another one... Kevin Lee Pricking Iron Review - YouTube
  2. Here's the link to Kevin Lee. Kevin Lee Tools I have the New style French pricking irons. He calls them pricking irons but I have emailed him and asked about using as chisels. No issues. I can go thru 3 layers of 7-8 oz veg tan, 2 layers of 9-10 oz. I use the 3.85mm which is 7 stitches per inch. I had made the simple pouch for them.
  3. I've only been making my sheaths for just over a year or so. Started watching all the tube videos to learn how to make them. Went to the local Tandy store and asked a lot of questions. I didn't have any leather craft tools at all except for a leather mallet. After the visit to the leather store and less money in my wallet I went with the stitching chisels. Chisels go thru the leather rather than just marking with pricking irons. With either chisels or irons your line won't be straight but rather a zig zag pattern of the stitch, but straight in a lined pattern. Used them with very good results. After I had one bend on a rubber board I purchased better ones from Kevin Lee tools. A lot more expensive than the Tandy's but what an improvement in hand saddle stitching! After doing it this way I really don't like the straight drilled hole look, my opinion. The process isn't much different than hat's been said already. The biggest thing is use your chisel prior to putting belt loop on and not wet or damp leather as it will distort too much. You don't need a groove but only wing dividers to mark your line lightly. I stitch the loop on and then fold sheath and glue aligning with a few needles. An awl helps to open the hole a little for ease of passing threaded needles thru the holes once glue has dried. You just want the point and 1st 1/8" sharp, the rest just dulled as to not cut the leather but only open enough for stitching. Holding your chisels straight and vertical to your work will result with straight on backside as well. Hope this helps.
  4. Here's what I've been putting on Knives and sheaths. How many of you go thru the process of trademarking marks and logo's ?
  5. How do you store your steel flat bars? Currently I have some O1 tool steel in 36 inch lengths standing in a rack. Seems a couple have bowed a little bit. My space is very limited. Would it be better on a shelf of some kind? Not sure where I could find that space. Thanks again for your help
  6. I've been looking for a mini benchtop surface grinder and don't see too much. I don't have the space for a floor model. I don't need a very big one to do knife blade material. Currently I just flatten on the belt grinder. It works okay besides grinding the tips of my fingers occasionally! Some of the O1 tool steel I have isn't completely flat. I'll most likely not make anything bigger than skinning knives about 8" overall length. Anybody see anything that might fit what I'm looking for in the U.S.A.? Thanks again
  7. Where can I find gold colored scale material? I'd rather it be micarta or G10, or similar.
  8. After a bunch of poly coats. Here's what I've got. The metal has a yellowish color from the ploy. If I were to take this off the tang it would ruin the entire finish! How was I supposed to apply this finish. The pores are obviously filled in now. I did have a oops moment while cleaning up the front the blade where meets the scales and rubbed bairly with 800 grit paper. Now it's dull!! The wood will never be used again in my house!! Unless stabilized. Thoughts?
  9. Thanks for the advice. This blade has been scrapped!
  10. Here's my latest project. O1 tool steel, maroon linen micarta scales, stainless steel pins and lanyard tube. Sheath dyed burgundy with colonial tan tiger thread, hand saddle stitched. Thoughts?
  11. Seems like some of the pores are larger than the Grand Canyon!! Thanks for the advice. I'll keep putting them on in thin coats. It'll probably take 10 coats. But even with 1st seems better than Tru Oil. Thanks again
  12. Put a coat on Xmas eve. Dunked it and wiped off excess. Didn't look better. Sanded down again and dunked again and wiped off excess with an old T shirt. Hopefully with the second coat it'll take a smooth look. Minwax Helmsman. Thoughts?
  13. I've completely sanded down to bare wood, from 400 grit through 3000 grit. There might be a tiny bit left in the big pores. What poly would you use? I'm not going to go the Tru Oil route again on this piece. Thanks again
  14. Ok, so I've put 10 coats of Tru Oil on these Amboyna scales after sanding to 800 grit. The pores weren't filling in. I sanded it again down to 600 grit with Tru Oil to a slurry. Some of the pores filled in with that treatment and some not so much. Just put the 1st coat on after stel wooled the Tru Oil. Lots of pores still show. I realize this takes some time but after 2 weeks and not getting any better. Am I doing something wrong with this wood? I've used Tru Oil several times before with no issues. Driving me nuts! Any thoughts on this wood? I've never worked with it prior. Thanks again
  15. Yes, the stamping is purely decretive. There's a welt between the inner and outer leather where the stitches are. That's what keeps blade from cutting stitches. I've not of the wood either. Guy sent it to me. Had to look it up...LOL That wood kinda looks like it.
  16. Here's a new sheath finished over the weekend. Knife isn't done yet. Handle is taking forever to fill pores in (Amboyna).
  17. Going to call this done. O1 tool steel, deer antler scales with brass pins. I did peen the pins gently and all held together with G/flex epoxy. A buddy of mine gave me the antler he shot a few years ago. This will be going to his son who hunts with him.
  18. Thank you. I didn't stabilize it, but rather hogged out 90% of the marrow. I'llfill it with G Flex epoxy. It's an older antler and your right...it's pretty tough stuff.
  19. This is my first attempt at using deer antler for scales. Once it's all done...do you seal it with anything? With the bumps on the antler I was planning on taking most of the off but leaving some color. Taking down more than what it is currently. This is a wip at the moment. Thanks again...
  20. There's some great replies in this thread for me and anyone else using O1. I really appreciate you helping me out! In the future I will most certainly be normalizing prior to hardening. Also, cooling down before going into oven for temper. This blade came out very straight. Again thank you all for taking your time with me! I'm still new and learning all the time and excited about it!
  21. After the 1st temper it's straight. Broke the other one at handle blade area. Grain looks a little smaller.
  22. I'm trying these suggestions this morning. I normalized it twice. Heated to orange color, checked as nonmagnetic, quenched in hotter oil this time (220 degrees), wire hand brushed off anti scale, checked hardness with a file, placed on oven rack at 400 (oven was pre-heated) degrees. The blade was straight going into oven. Now I wait. Thanks for your help!!!
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