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Jaron Martindale

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About Jaron Martindale

  • Birthday 12/19/1993

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  • Location
    Junction City, OR
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Blacksmithing, Viking Age Weapons, Japanese Weapons, History, stuff and things

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  1. Unsupervised Shenanigans are always the Best It looks beautiful!
  2. Curtain hook to practice Welding mild steel/finally making something functional for the house like my wife has been asking for for years..>_> If you look at the leaf closely you can see where I nearly melted it off,lol
  3. I am rarely, if ever, mechanically inclined....so this may be a dumb idea what if instead of a hinge and bolt mechanism, you used a bolt on either end, threaded into the base, and tighten/loosen simultaneously as needed to lower or raise the abrasive...? Use two nuts on either end of the plates to prevent loosening/tightening as the machine vibrates... as I write this I wonder about how strong that would be and if there would be rotational or shear forces(?) that might bugger the bolts....
  4. I got mine at Buckeye Engraving - https://buckeyeengraving.com/ I really like it, and they'll customize to your specs/needs.
  5. I like that idea a lot Bob, thank you! I'm thinking I'd like to stick with the first form of weld, its much easier in the prep and time realm than stacking bars... I'm not sure which shape I'll keep, I like them both, so I'll have to see which shape is easier regarding the material constraints. I'll also be replacing my HF anvil shaped piece of cast iron within the next week or so, so once I have him all mounted up I'll be out there making an armory of spears until I get this one right! I'll be sure to post a picture of progress
  6. Alan: Initially I heated both pieces individually and drove them together at orange/red hot thinking it would help seat the metal, and applied a liberal amount of flux thinking this might help “glue” the pieces together. Then I brought it up to welding temp and drove the point in. I did that twice before I started working the weld back, with cleaning and fluxing in-betweens. I have a square hardy-hole tool I put in so I could hammer against that to set the welds since I don’t yet have a swage block.(a long time dream though) Gerald: I have a buddy I may be able to drag out with me
  7. yeah, that's correct. The tip actually welded up relatively well other than that small indent you're seeing, it was mostly the "tabs" of the spear head that I struggled to weld and keep attached. I'll definitely be paying closer attention to my prep work prior to welding this next go around.
  8. I did drive the point in first and essentially try to weld from the tip back. The socket is Wrought Iron and the blade is shear steel from a wagon/buggy leaf spring I got at a garage sale. Thanks Billy! This was my first time trying a weld like this so I had no idea what shapes I was going for prior to welding... I’ll be sure to keep this in mind next time I try this weld!
  9. The second one I went with a find as listed in an article Maciek Tomaszczyk posted up in his ever-inspiring Pattern-Welded Spear thread! It's based on the #47 spear head, and I added some fun to it by doing a 3 piece "multi-bar" approach with a fish-mouth weld! starting dimension were 3" x 3/8" x 1" (with a taper at the tip,so I kinda guestimated the 1 cubic inch value...) The 2nd attempt was better at reaching the desired dimensions, but it got too dark and I ran out of fuel towards the end and was an idiot and worked the forge-welded Wrought-Iron section of the socket far too cold
  10. This will be my first year participating in KITH, I'm excited and nervous. Hopefully I can produce something good enough to stand along side the rest of you guys. Since I think I'm the only one who voted for the Spear option this year, it seemed only right to perhaps attempt a combination of a spear using 1 cubic inch of material! I took Immediately to Anne Jorgensen's book "Waffen und Graber" for general measurements that might equal around a cubic inch, and found the L2 and L4 seemed to hit the mark. I settled on an L4 for my first attempt since it seemed a simpler s
  11. I second Joshua. words to live by: "Don't keep a mistake just because you spent time on it". I'm as guilty of keeping a knife that has flaws for the wall of learning/shame as anyone, but gluing a handle on backwards is easily fixable, and even though some wood may be lost, at least you don't lose an entire blade. With the Seax shape you have, you have the beginnings of a nice one, but I would encourage you to get rid of the plunge line and grind the bevel all the way down. If you peruse and study a few of the MANY seax threads on here you'll find some great examples!
  12. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Cory LA 3. Conner Michaux 4. billyO 5. Ted Stocksdale 6. Geoff Keyes 7. Brian Dougherty 8. Pieter-Paul Derks 9. Robert Dowse 10. Gary LT 11. Bruno 12.Jaron Martindale
  13. I still make super simple blades, but generally I measure as if the finished piece was rectangular. As long as I know the width, length, and thickness I'm going for I don't really shave any off for the tapered tip or anything like that. Gives me a little extra for the inevitable mess-ups coming my way And I measure curves over the entire length as if I was laying a piece of string along the blade's path and then measuring the string out straight, not a straight line from hilt to tip. As far as the equation goes I just use the volume equation you already listed: Width x Height x Length =
  14. How Long do you need? I've got a place here in Oregon http://www.coyotesteel.com/ who sells stock like that on the regular. you can call them and see about ordering it for a more sustainable supplier, or if its a one-time thing I can go grab some and ship it to you. I would grab myself some too, so cost would just be shipping to you and whatever your length ends up costing (normally around 1/2-2/3 the cost mcmaster and onlinemetals in my experience). Here's hoping you find a local place though!
  15. I'm excited to hopefully participate in this year's KITH! I watched in awe and anticipation this last year as everyone's projects came together. I really like both ideas, but I think I lean towards same starting stock for a knife, personally. I'm not much for tool making,but maybe that means I should be stretched into building tools? I'm just excited to participate either way!
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