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Jaron Martindale

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About Jaron Martindale

  • Birthday 12/19/1993

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  • Location
    Junction City, OR
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Blacksmithing, Viking Age Weapons, Japanese Weapons, History

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  1. That looks great! I really like this!
  2. It would definitely be nice to have more involved, and I'm not in any hurry. I didn't accomplish all that I had hoped to do, so I wouldn't mind an extension either.
  3. I'm not currently at home to consult my big book of metal properties( thrifting buy, nice big tome of ferrous and non ferrous chemical make-ups, common uses, ways to work it, etc etc; it does a good job of making sure people like me without a background in this stuff make good sense of it all), but I believe when I got asked to forge a sword from bronze I used 954 Bronze. https://alloys.copper.org/alloy/C95400?referrer=facetedsearch The book I have referenced the good forgeability of 954 due to the 3-5% of iron, especially for those of us used to steel. Whether this is exactly true or not I'm not sure, but as long as I didn't overheat it (below a bright glow, dull glow worked fine with softer hits) it seemed to forge and bevel just fine. Caveat for 954 is it's a water quench bronze, so it will not anneal when quenched like copper would, you have to let it anneal similar to how you might thermo-cycle/normalize steel where you heat and let cool in still air. This is the same alloy I believe Alec used in the video you mentioned, and is the same effect he stumbled upon. **Anyone with real knowledge in this area please feel free to correct me!** This is a page for large blocks of 954 from Coal Iron Works, and at the Bottom is a Video of Josh Weston and David DelaGardelle Designing and Forging a MONSTROUS bronze sword! Worth a watch if you haven't seen it yet. https://coaliron.com/collections/steel-sales/products/aluminum-bronze-square-stock This is that "executioners sword" I was asked for by a client...please don't judge me.. As a note, I'd like to say trying to find a Bronze alloy to forge was extremely irritating and time consuming. I consulted A LOT of more experienced makers, including David, before I bought my bronze. Hopefully this at least helps point you in a decent direction. I hope the Bracelet turns out Beautiful!
  4. That Looks Beautiful. What Woods did you use? (sorry if you said in the video, I had to watch w/o sound..definitely NOT at my work desk..) The profile looks kinda like the "Deba" profile I've seen https://japanesechefsknife.com/collections/deba, but regardless of what you call it it looks like a very handy knife to have in the kitchen!
  5. Thank You Matt, that is very reassuring, and I'll be sure to plan on it for next year!
  6. This is all making me very sad I'll be missing it I hope it comes back next year so I can join in!
  7. And Kanna Is done! Not the set I had hoped to put up, but I'm happy enough with this guy. If I get a chance to forge between now and the deadline I'll try to get a Sayanomi chisel sorted out, too
  8. The Dai is Flattened and chamfered(?)! ON TO POLISHING! I ended up taking a bit of the checking out to help remove places for grit and grime to get in.
  9. "Over the Weekend" my butt BUT!(eh-hehehe...butt..) I did get it Carved! That small crack is very minimal and left-over from the natural checking, it doesn't appear to hamper any functionality, and is actually hard to see in person. I left it because the dai was getting a little thin for my liking and I didn't want to make it so thin it would flex when using it. I have everything functioning, and it took some thicker ribbons out of a pine board and some thinner/wider shavings from a 1/2 oak board. This is from a quick 600grit polish, so I 'm hoping that with some sharpening and stropping it will perform adequately. It is a little wonky to get seated straight, but it CAN be done! lol On to completely flattening the Bottom, chamfering the corners, and cleaning up what I can on the insides! I may just make the deadline for at least a Kanna...
  10. Looking absolutely Beautiful!
  11. Well, no such luck on the forging days so far... I was dinking around with the Kanna Blade and Ferric one day, and I may have..well..forgotten about it.. (I figure if I etch the whole thing like this I can auction it off as antique..) I was worried It may have been a total loss, but it seems to have ground out just fine. Considering the trouble I 'm having digging up time to be out at the forge I think I may just start another Dai using the reground blade after I clean it up a little more. The blessing in re-grinding the blade was that I was able to accomplish a bit of a better distal taper so it should have a better fit-up in the long run I have the new dai marked and ready to carve over the weekend. This is also Madrone, harvested from some downed limbs I saw while hunting last year. I left it in block form for a little over a week before I picked it back up and it hasn't twisted, checked, or bowed, so I believe its dry enough to work with. I'm not exactly sure how, but I'm determined to have at least SOMETHING to present for this year's KITH!
  12. Life has been hectic, so I'm struggling to find time to be out at the forge this year. I had made some progress on the Kanna-dai (plane body)..."had" being the operative word there... Things started out challenging, but doable. Lots of line scribing, but with a few resources I found I just followed the directions and eventually got there. I Did some beginning marking and chiseling with small tools to make sure I wasn't over-enthusiastic Eventually I went home and used a large chisel for the major stock removal. The tutorial I was following suggested a drill with depth setters for this process, but that sounded like a good way for me to mess this up quicker Eventually I made it through and had the blade roughly fitting ready for tuning. And then my Dai had other plans... So we're back to square one. I enjoyed the dai making process immensely, so I'm excited to do it again. Not sure if I want to try for a clearer piece of Madrone again, or maybe use White Oak.. I know Japanese Oak isn't the same, but I'm not sure what the best approximation would be... My plan is to start from scratch and remake the blade as well so the stamp is on the correct side, lol. I'm hoping for a good day or two in the next few weeks to be out at the forge, so hopefully I'll have a good update shortly..and maybe even before the deadline!
  13. I really like this one! Would it be selfish of me to ask for more pictures of the blade...?
  14. This thread may be useful In Determining If you really need a large Wheel for a 3/4" wide Fuller based on the thickness of the blade. An alternative to using a larger wheel or scraper is to use a small wheel to create a fuller with a much flatter curve by grinding in the shallow initial fuller line and then moving the piece up and down vertically as you grind down the fuller to slowly widen the fuller. This can still require a piece of wood and lot of sandpaper though, lol!!
  15. Those turned out Stunning! I especially like those handles!
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