Jump to content

Jaron Martindale

Members
  • Content Count

    146
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

104 Excellent

About Jaron Martindale

  • Birthday 12/19/1993

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.forgedpointe.com/about

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Junction City, OR
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Blacksmithing, Viking Age Weapons, Japanese Weapons, History

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. just to add some possible ideas and variety: when you say "tactical hatchet", two things come to mind, first, the CRKT Kangee T-Hawk - https://www.crkt.com/kangee-t-hawk.html (I have one of these and like using it for excursions into the rainy PNW forests) and a semi-local guy, Harlan, business name OOAK FORGE, who has done some neat hatchets - https://www.pinterest.com/ooakforge/ooak-forge-hatchets-and-axes/ Hope it helps a little, I'm excited to see what you come up with!
  2. I thought it would be fun to explore some Japanese handle making tools! I apologize if I get any terminology wrong, still working on memorizing it all. My plan is to make a smaller 2" or so Japanese Plane (Kanna) complete with the dai but no chip breaker(from my understanding that was a later introduction and it should still be functional without), A handle or scabbard chisel (Sayanomi), and a marking knife (Kiridashi). The plan right now (if you followed my KITH last year you know how good I am to sticking to plans..>_>) is to forge the Sayanomi out of some 1085 round bar I
  3. I really like that! do you mind if I ask: Where did you get the patterned Kydex?
  4. Thank you very much. I'll be interested to see how the handle oxidizes too, especially in the kitchen environment. I'm setting aside a block for the personal test knife, so I'll be sure to post pictures!
  5. Thank You! I did some test cutting with potatoes and spinach and it seemed to cut clean and ergonomically, but with expected food stick from a straight flat grind. I’ve been tasked by the Wife to make a kitchen knife for us to have next so I’ll have a chance to do some extensive testing with that. And I would ABSOLUTELY be interested in some Yew! I will send you a message.
  6. Thank You I definitely can't take credit for the coloring, its all natural, lol! After I shaped it I applied 3-4 coats of wax that's based in mineral oil and beeswax and this was the color that happened.
  7. 3rd Kitchen knife, so I thought I'd put it out there for Critiques. I've enjoyed doing all 3 Kitchen knives and have had a relatively good response to them locally so I'd like to improve them with your help and make some more. I'd like to know what to improve on and what I should keep doing. Personally: I like the shape, alignment of handle to blade, and I'm proud of the heel area. I wish I had kept the handle a little thicker (its a little broomsticky towards the blade end..), the sanding on the brass bolster isn't even (yet. I'm working myself up to fix it), and I think the blade
  8. I've never done canister, and have done minimal forge-welding, but I was thinking (DANGER, DANGER) and thought I'd chuck this out there.... If a Helper is Present, would a canister by hand be made easier if you fabricated a "flatter" style hammer close to the same size or slightly larger than your canister and had your striker hit that in an effort to keep the force relatively even? Or would this result in too much energy loss? Wild thought thinking about trying to do this by hand, lol Good luck Gerhard! I look forward to seeing the progress and results!
  9. Still trying to figure this fighter knife thing out, lol! Way out of my league with the blade and sheath, but its been fun to be uncomfortable and grow with it. And I've been enjoying exploring the realm of kitchen knives too! 80CrV2 K-tip I'm finishing up for a friend and former co-worker with some neat alloy banding (and maybe dirty etching, I dunno lol)
  10. Now this is a Knoife! A very Noice Knoife at that!! I love the sheath too! Nice job!
  11. I've played with chainmaille jewelry a little, so I can do jump rings mostly, lol! I like to use piano wire or mild steel round-bar for my jump ring mandrels, and if I'm not wrapping them by hand I drill a hole in the mandrel, stick the wire in the hole to secure it, and chuck it up in my drill and run it real slow. Makes the wrapping process much quicker. Other than mandrels I found I can bend most shapes I need with a pair of round-nose pliers, and I prefer to handle the wire with bent needle nose pliers especially since they tend not to have the grooves that leave nasty marks on
  12. Dear Lord, good sir....just wow.. I can't fathom what kind of work you'll be turning out in a few years....
  13. Most of this was done earlier this week, but I'm bad at uploading pictures to the computer so I can post them easier, lol First, I got the Sub-hilt Fighter all together finally! this is a picture of the dry fit, but not much different than how it looks now with the glue I got an 80CrV2 K-tip kitchen knife heat-treated and did a super rough grind and etch to check the temper-line. I've been enjoying the gentle waves that 80CrV2 gives with a simple clay.
  14. If you're using a toaster oven (me too ) I got advice that has saved quite a few blades from accidental under/over-tempering: get a candy thermometer. Most are rated at or above 500 deg (way over what any reasonable blade needs), for mostly continual use, and tend to be accurate since candy makers need to the degree accuracy. Many will also recommend putting a pan of sand in the oven for thermal mass to help keep the temp even throughout the temper cycle since the oven will cycle on and off frequently. Right now my oven is behind 40-50 deg of what the knob says, so setting it to 425-ish w
×
×
  • Create New...