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Jaron Martindale

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About Jaron Martindale

  • Birthday 12/19/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Junction City, OR
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Blacksmithing, Viking Age Weapons, Japanese Weapons, History, stuff and things

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  1. I think it was Alan who suggested this in a previous thread about Epoxy clean-up, but a Non-ferrous “blade”/scraper worked wonders for me to clean up squeeze-out on the front and back of scales! Being copper or brass it won’t mar or scratch the steel surface and if care is taken it won’t damage the scale either *EDIT- this is for AFTER the epoxy has dried...do not recommend while still wet use the acetone thing for that I really like this shape BTW! Awesome work!!!
  2. I can't endorse this option enough! They are a little more pricey, but they truly break things down in an easy to understand way. Also, in my experience(much less than a lot of guys here ), keep in mind that Blade-smithing is generally black-smithing but with fewer processes involved; so don't be afraid to forgo specific blade-smithing books to learn the basics first. In general we do tapering, isolating, and spreading/lengthening.(there's potential for lots of fancy other things, but this will get you most any stick/stub/hidden or full tang knife you could want, maybe even an integral) Once I got Mark Aspery's first book and he broke down those processes things became A LOT easier
  3. Recently finished up this Puukko in 1084 and Ironwood. The blade is hand sanded to 1500g and the flats are at 600g, and the handle hard edges were broke down with a worn out 220 and coated with beeswax. That teardrop shaped handle kicked my butt up and down the street! You people who do it in the regular are insane, lol The Blade is 4.5” and the handle is 5.25”
  4. Very clean! That handle looks super comfy
  5. Well, that crack still hasn’t left, and I still haven’t hand-sanded the blade but I decided I wanted to try carving out a handle! This is my first shot at carving a handle and first encounter with bog oak. I’ve been told I need much MUCH sharper tools than what I have currently, so I’ll keep that in mind before I attempt this again Overall I’m having fun learning! The design is my own imagination heavily inspired by Ringerike style and the works of David Delagardelle.
  6. This is my First real successful Hamon; done on a 1065 kitchen knife. I left the blade dark as a personal preference, but I think I was able to polish the hamon to at least a little bit of wispy-ness I thought it was neat that some Hada showed up though!
  7. Canola oil I have I’ll give that a shot and see if we come out a bit less cracked
  8. I Love this idea!! I’ve been trying to convince myself to get some proper layout fluid, but now I can continue to satisfy my cheap-o self AND sneak a peak at patterns
  9. Thank You Alan! thinking about it I’d bet money I forged it far too cold.. I used a warmed water quench, so I suppose that could have been too fast? My understanding was Shear needs a water quench...maybe I’ll try something a little milder in the future if the cracks continue to appear
  10. Thank You Brian! Absolutely, this was a test blade to learn how to work with two very unknown metals for me, so it was never for selling, and I won’t mind having a pretty looker on my shelf And I find myself getting so excited to see what these things look like in the etch that I neglect properly going through the grits..gets me most every time! just a chance to go back through and get a better etch, yeah? EDIT: I have GOT to stop being so excited, lol. Thank You for the Grit suggestions and finishing suggestions! I’ll definitely be applying those
  11. Hello, I thought I would bring this here for some questions I’m hoping you wondrously wise people have answers to I have this Wrought Iron and Shear Steel blade I forged out, and I wanted to ask a few questions in case anyone has any ideas. 1) what grit would you guys bring it to before you etch it? And would you use Ferric Chloride, or Vinegar? Its currently at 600 in the last 2 pictures, just not sure if it’ll get better with more sanding, or just start blurring together 2) I have what I THINK is a pre-existing crack/void/thingy in the edge steel, and I just thought I’d pick your brains to see if maybe it seems to you like maybe I caused it, or if its reasonable to think is was pre-existing? It comes from essentially an old Leaf spring(buggy seat spring). This can be seen in picture 4. Thanks for any and all help you guys can offer, I love this forum more every time I come!
  12. Finally getting to some finish-ish work today! Trying to get this Mother’s Day kitchen knife hand rubbed before Mother’s Day actually gets here And I’m finally getting to grinding and polishing this Wrought and Shear Steel laminated blade
  13. I’m really new to forge welding, but I’ve just recently completed 3 “sanmai“ bars That were combinations of wagon tire Wrought and high carbon! If it helps give any confidence , I have an extremely basic coal set-up and have never actually been trained by anyone other than the interwebs, so I’m clearly qualified My process is Pretty much exactly like Zeb said. So far it goes like this: bundle my stack with wire, in coal forge it goes, heat to red, flux, back in the fire, heat to welding temp( I watch for my flux to start moving as if it was alive, lol), pull out with 10lb sledge in hand and gentle firm overlapping hits from one side to the next. I did 2 welding heats, one on each side of the billet, before I flip it up on its “edge”. my biggest hurdles were getting a firm wire wrap to start with, and getting over the mental hurdle of thinking “how hard” forge welding is. One thing I remember Owen Bush teaching in the 2016 arctic fire Video he did was keep in mind to have slightly thinner pieces of wrought than your high carbon since it moves much quicker than most steels. This got me on 2 of my 3 billets, lol Good Luck, I can’t wait to see the end result!
  14. Welcome aboard the crazy train! *Toot Toot* Its looking Great already! Rebar is a great way to start learning how metal can move and how to change the cross-section of material
  15. Very nice! I Love the Copper collar on the first Hawk!
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