Jump to content

Jaron Martindale

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Jaron Martindale

  • Birthday 12/19/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Junction City, OR
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Blacksmithing, Viking Age Weapons, Japanese Weapons, History, stuff and things

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. These posts give me hope for the future, lol very very first knife shaped object from rebar. It was a going away present to a friend (don't worry, we're still friends, even after this gift, lol) And my most recent blade, and first attempt at a multibar construction
  2. Fun Stuff!! I got to cast Bronze signet rings for a friend's wedding party and I ruined more wax and bronze than I care to admit, lol! I still like to play around with copper though, its nice to consolidate the scraps into those big bars
  3. Thank Bryan, that was great to read through! I was amazed at how little there really is in the way of traditional stone polishing info other than references to those coveted VHS and a few mentions here and there. And forget about trying to competently buy stones. I don’t speak too much Japanese, and I’m looking at mine selection, hard vs soft, natural slurry vs nagura, various descriptive Japanese words tossed in for flavor, all with hundreds of dollars in the balance....my head was definitely spinning. This Forum has definitely been helpful in making polishing feel more attainable,
  4. Can you tell us about the processes you used to get it this far since we don't have pictures? Also, can we get more pictures of the knife in general to get a sense of how it looks in hand and at different angles? In the Spirit of "Design and Critique" here is some thoughts, take them as you will -The bevel looks decently consistent, although it looks like you may have a burr still attached to your edge, or possibly just a very shiny micro bevel. Either way the edge looks like it has some small chips in it that need addressed either with a finer grit abrasive or a strop to get r
  5. Hope I'm not gumming up the forum here with a couple suggestions.. Emiliano's pictures in this forum are some of my favorite to study for this process Its down a bit, but the whole thing is still nice to peruse Peter Johnson also does a great tutorial for this type of Scabbard here Neither actually state the weight of leather (I don't think...), but the pictures give a good idea Personally, from having done a few solid wood scabbards with linings, I admit Sheepskin/pelt/fur/hide/whatsamahoosit shaved down was definitely my favorite as far as functionality and
  6. David Delagardelle recommended Adamson&Low to me from the UK They had fast shipping and from what I can tell very affordable prices for product that seems to be legit, and they even include a pamphlet of history/credentials http://www.adamsonandlow.com/bog_oak/ https://www.etsy.com/shop/AdamsonandLow
  7. Hello, please let me know if this is a repost of this particular website, but in my roamings of the interwebs I came across this website: http://www.tomonagura.com Its not very intuitive to navigate, but a little exploring seems to lead to some fun stuff. As a newbie trying to research this part of the blade making world the Glossary in the “jnats” section has been WONDERFUL! Hope someone else gets some joy out of it! I’ve been filling hours reading definitions and trying to learn all I can with no end in sight, lol
  8. I agree with Doug. Make yourself some knives (don't need to be fancy) with your practice bevels with good steel and enjoy having some beater knives, a few destroyed knives, and a solid knowledge of what your bevels will do
  9. I'm relatively new to making kitchen knives, so grain of salt disclaimer I really like the pairing knives personally, and I'd be excited to use those to slice up apples and peel potatoes Looking at the blade shape of the Chef's knife I'm wondering how effectively I could use the tip with the current angle of the up-sweep..I might put the tip a little closer in line with the middle of the blade, or elongate the curve so its not so severe? I'm sure a lot of it is personal preference and how you use your knives, but it's the first thing to catch my eye This is great work, especially
  10. I think it was Alan who suggested this in a previous thread about Epoxy clean-up, but a Non-ferrous “blade”/scraper worked wonders for me to clean up squeeze-out on the front and back of scales! Being copper or brass it won’t mar or scratch the steel surface and if care is taken it won’t damage the scale either *EDIT- this is for AFTER the epoxy has dried...do not recommend while still wet use the acetone thing for that I really like this shape BTW! Awesome work!!!
  11. I can't endorse this option enough! They are a little more pricey, but they truly break things down in an easy to understand way. Also, in my experience(much less than a lot of guys here ), keep in mind that Blade-smithing is generally black-smithing but with fewer processes involved; so don't be afraid to forgo specific blade-smithing books to learn the basics first. In general we do tapering, isolating, and spreading/lengthening.(there's potential for lots of fancy other things, but this will get you most any stick/stub/hidden or full tang knife you could want, maybe even an integral)
  12. Recently finished up this Puukko in 1084 and Ironwood. The blade is hand sanded to 1500g and the flats are at 600g, and the handle hard edges were broke down with a worn out 220 and coated with beeswax. That teardrop shaped handle kicked my butt up and down the street! You people who do it in the regular are insane, lol The Blade is 4.5” and the handle is 5.25”
  13. Very clean! That handle looks super comfy
  14. Well, that crack still hasn’t left, and I still haven’t hand-sanded the blade but I decided I wanted to try carving out a handle! This is my first shot at carving a handle and first encounter with bog oak. I’ve been told I need much MUCH sharper tools than what I have currently, so I’ll keep that in mind before I attempt this again Overall I’m having fun learning! The design is my own imagination heavily inspired by Ringerike style and the works of David Delagardelle.
  15. This is my First real successful Hamon; done on a 1065 kitchen knife. I left the blade dark as a personal preference, but I think I was able to polish the hamon to at least a little bit of wispy-ness I thought it was neat that some Hada showed up though!
  • Create New...