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Jaron Martindale

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Everything posted by Jaron Martindale

  1. Put a handle on another knife. This one is more utilitarian with a decent convex edge. The handles are Ironwood with Copper pins and a "Hyper-Glow" lanyard hole. The name of the game here was "Truck Knife" And a picture to show the initial concept sketch. Remember kids: don't throw away or erase any sketches
  2. This made my day, Thank You!! The micarta is just a block I picked up from Blade Show West a few years back when they still came to Portland,OR, so I'm not sure what kind it is..The layers are real wavy and look close-knit, so maybe..linen or a tight burlap.? I took a shine to the block because it was cut differently from usual, so each layer was visible on the face side of the block. I agree about the Hamon hiding the lines of the knife, but I have to say I was grateful for it this time because I couldn't get the lines are crisp as I had hoped..
  3. Recently finished a knife for a firefighter friend who I've known since he was like 5 years old, working on trying to dial in the sheath this morning and thought I'd try to be a little more artsy than fartsy(for once) with a picture. 80CrV2 with Copper pins and micarta handle here's a couple more cause I like the succulents
  4. Out of curiosity: what is the scale on these..? I'm not familiar and You guys are making them sound ginormous... *edit: It's absolutely Gorgeous by-the-way!
  5. I did some more work on this project this week. I worked down a piece of huge wagon tire I got a while back, its about 3/8-1/2" thick by 2.5-3" wide. I had hoped it would be some nicely patterned wrought like the little wagon tires I have, but it appears to either be mild or insanely well refined wrought since there's no pattern when etched. It does forge similar to copper though, so I'm leaning towards refined wrought... I don't really have pictures since I'm low on time to forge recently, and I'm a little rusty not only in forging but in the documenting process. Here is the
  6. I'm definitely not the best to ask for advice, I know just a small enough amount to get myself in trouble, lol! But yeah, that Harbor freight 1 HP is what I ended up getting because I was buying a pre-made chassis so I could just bolt the two down and start grinding. I'm a slow/methodical grinder(see "bad at grinding"), so the slow RPMs and low power helps me avoid mistakes, but I have definitely bogged the motor down before even just using a belt cleaner stick and pressing too hard. From what I gather from my research if you have the ability to spend most/all of your budget on a qu
  7. I don't have any fabrication experience to help, but I will point out both those motors are likely not ideal for a grinder since they are not "TEFC" (Totally Enclosed Fan-Cooled) motors meaning they will be susceptible to all the dust and grinder debris you'll be making, as well as water droplets from dipping your projects in your water bucket. I only know because I stared at those motors for a few months also, lol! I ended up buying the 1hp from Harbor Freight since it is TEFC and the lower power and RPMs works for my situation. Those motors are listed as an ODP Enclosure, and my googl
  8. just to add some possible ideas and variety: when you say "tactical hatchet", two things come to mind, first, the CRKT Kangee T-Hawk - https://www.crkt.com/kangee-t-hawk.html (I have one of these and like using it for excursions into the rainy PNW forests) and a semi-local guy, Harlan, business name OOAK FORGE, who has done some neat hatchets - https://www.pinterest.com/ooakforge/ooak-forge-hatchets-and-axes/ Hope it helps a little, I'm excited to see what you come up with!
  9. I thought it would be fun to explore some Japanese handle making tools! I apologize if I get any terminology wrong, still working on memorizing it all. My plan is to make a smaller 2" or so Japanese Plane (Kanna) complete with the dai but no chip breaker(from my understanding that was a later introduction and it should still be functional without), A handle or scabbard chisel (Sayanomi), and a marking knife (Kiridashi). The plan right now (if you followed my KITH last year you know how good I am to sticking to plans..>_>) is to forge the Sayanomi out of some 1085 round bar I
  10. I really like that! do you mind if I ask: Where did you get the patterned Kydex?
  11. Thank you very much. I'll be interested to see how the handle oxidizes too, especially in the kitchen environment. I'm setting aside a block for the personal test knife, so I'll be sure to post pictures!
  12. Thank You! I did some test cutting with potatoes and spinach and it seemed to cut clean and ergonomically, but with expected food stick from a straight flat grind. I’ve been tasked by the Wife to make a kitchen knife for us to have next so I’ll have a chance to do some extensive testing with that. And I would ABSOLUTELY be interested in some Yew! I will send you a message.
  13. Thank You I definitely can't take credit for the coloring, its all natural, lol! After I shaped it I applied 3-4 coats of wax that's based in mineral oil and beeswax and this was the color that happened.
  14. 3rd Kitchen knife, so I thought I'd put it out there for Critiques. I've enjoyed doing all 3 Kitchen knives and have had a relatively good response to them locally so I'd like to improve them with your help and make some more. I'd like to know what to improve on and what I should keep doing. Personally: I like the shape, alignment of handle to blade, and I'm proud of the heel area. I wish I had kept the handle a little thicker (its a little broomsticky towards the blade end..), the sanding on the brass bolster isn't even (yet. I'm working myself up to fix it), and I think the blade
  15. I've never done canister, and have done minimal forge-welding, but I was thinking (DANGER, DANGER) and thought I'd chuck this out there.... If a Helper is Present, would a canister by hand be made easier if you fabricated a "flatter" style hammer close to the same size or slightly larger than your canister and had your striker hit that in an effort to keep the force relatively even? Or would this result in too much energy loss? Wild thought thinking about trying to do this by hand, lol Good luck Gerhard! I look forward to seeing the progress and results!
  16. Still trying to figure this fighter knife thing out, lol! Way out of my league with the blade and sheath, but its been fun to be uncomfortable and grow with it. And I've been enjoying exploring the realm of kitchen knives too! 80CrV2 K-tip I'm finishing up for a friend and former co-worker with some neat alloy banding (and maybe dirty etching, I dunno lol)
  17. Now this is a Knoife! A very Noice Knoife at that!! I love the sheath too! Nice job!
  18. I've played with chainmaille jewelry a little, so I can do jump rings mostly, lol! I like to use piano wire or mild steel round-bar for my jump ring mandrels, and if I'm not wrapping them by hand I drill a hole in the mandrel, stick the wire in the hole to secure it, and chuck it up in my drill and run it real slow. Makes the wrapping process much quicker. Other than mandrels I found I can bend most shapes I need with a pair of round-nose pliers, and I prefer to handle the wire with bent needle nose pliers especially since they tend not to have the grooves that leave nasty marks on
  19. Dear Lord, good sir....just wow.. I can't fathom what kind of work you'll be turning out in a few years....
  20. Most of this was done earlier this week, but I'm bad at uploading pictures to the computer so I can post them easier, lol First, I got the Sub-hilt Fighter all together finally! this is a picture of the dry fit, but not much different than how it looks now with the glue I got an 80CrV2 K-tip kitchen knife heat-treated and did a super rough grind and etch to check the temper-line. I've been enjoying the gentle waves that 80CrV2 gives with a simple clay.
  21. If you're using a toaster oven (me too ) I got advice that has saved quite a few blades from accidental under/over-tempering: get a candy thermometer. Most are rated at or above 500 deg (way over what any reasonable blade needs), for mostly continual use, and tend to be accurate since candy makers need to the degree accuracy. Many will also recommend putting a pan of sand in the oven for thermal mass to help keep the temp even throughout the temper cycle since the oven will cycle on and off frequently. Right now my oven is behind 40-50 deg of what the knob says, so setting it to 425-ish w
  22. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Jaron Martindale I'm excited, I've been meaning to try some tool making
  23. It tends to be determined by what you want the knife to do. I know, "It depends" is not a helpful answer, but its kinda true..If you haven't already, I would suggest looking up the various general blade Grinds(Scandi/Flat/Hollow/convex/etc etc) and what they are best suited for. You don't happen to have any pictures of the blade in question do you? It can be much easier for people to diagnose and help fix an issue by seeing it rather than diving into theoreticals that may or may not pertain to your situation.
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