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  1. Thanks for the advice on this blower Mr. Coe, it's working great for my set-up, still working on a few tweaks here and there.
  2. Good day Bogamin, it may be that there is not have enough airflow thru the plenum, I would be inclined to increase the air pressure in the plenum first before anything else. The objective is to have a high fresh air/fuel flow/pressure thru the plenum to keep it "cool" and keep the flam outside the plenum in the forge. It is a balancing act. You may also try applying a kiln wash, ITC-100 or Plistix that may help reduce or slow heat migrating into the plenum. I'm still not reaching a welding heat in my forge yet so I have broke down the air /fuel delivery system and I am shortening pipe, hoping
  3. BTW: I mixed saturated sodium silicate and pure Alumina to a thick past painted this on the interior, allowed it to dry and fired it up after it glazed over, I cranked it up and it reaches a faint yellow, near white heat.
  4. This is the 3rd time of firing up the forge making sure all castable is cured, would it be beneficial to apply Satanite the walls ? I know I don't want to cover the floor with it sense it is easily damaged by flux. I still have not applied kiln wash either. I have noticed very little Dragons breath so far but I have not opened the needle valve more than 3 full turns. On the safety side of things: I installed a 3/8 electromagnetic gas valve and a an air proof switch for safety should we loos power or the fan motor fail the gas will cut off. I have no tongs to yet to reach in to the
  5. Thanks Jerrod, there is so much information to absorb and process. I think the D2 will have to take a back burner for a while.
  6. Thanks Alan I will search for it.
  7. I have received pro gratis, a sheet of 3.00 cm thick X 8" x 10" D2 tool steel, is 3 cm too thin for knife blank to start with? would it be better to cut coupons, stack and forge weld and draw out a more robust knife blank? If I understand correctly D2 is air quenched or aloud to cool in a box of vermiculite.
  8. I've opted for this new 5 gal water heater tank in place of the two tank set-up 20 lb propane tank for size reference.
  9. good to know thanks, do ither of you gentlemen have experience with Ribbon Burners and is the satanite a good choice for casting the burner?
  10. A question on the subject of using a rigidizer. I'm building my 1st forge using 2 layers of 1" Kaowool should I apply home made Sodium Silicate between the layers of Kaowool as a fixitive (Binding agent) or for go the binding between the layers and just use Satanite for top coat?
  11. Geoff, Wayne, Thanks fellas for responding, hopefully this old dog can learn something new. I will certainly read the referenced thread and your site Wayne, I'm at the point of no return with this build, most of my supplies have yet to arrive and I have more shells than I can shack a stick at. I may just scrap the refrigerant tank idea and go with a 5 Gal water heater tank i have both on hand. the heater tank is much heaver gage steel and eraser to weld on. I don't know much about the robin burners but I have a 250 CFM centrifugal blower waiting to be put to use.
  12. finely got my tumbler tank assembled.
  13. Good day Gentile and those who aren't, Terrance Way, HVAC Tech from Winder, Georgia I do have a burner question that I could not find an answer to in the sloe of burner threads that I've read for the past hour and half. How do you go about determining the proper size and or type of burner, my forge shell is 19" long/deep and 9.5" across, two refrigerant tanks welded together I plan on insulating with 2" Kaowool topped with 3 coats of Satanite. Finished cavity estimated to be 14" by 5". I presume two burners would be enough, would a twin 2" blown burner setup be to much? I
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