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Charlie Jack

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Posts posted by Charlie Jack

  1. First attempt at forge welding 6 layer, 3 of 1095 and 3 of 15n20. Steel ordered from a reputable supplier. Just attempting to teach my self to forge weld any advice/criticism would be greatly appreciated. What is a good way to make sure I have a good weld all the way through?Thanks in advance.

     

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  2. 18 hours ago, Brian Myers said:

    It's all in the flame action and color really. With a reducing or oxygen lean atmosphere, there is an excess of fuel in the forge and you get what's called dragon's breath or orange flames roaring out the forge. A neutral atmosphere is basically having enough fuel and oxygen to burn near perfectly clean with a strong blue flame, and an oxidizing or oxygen rich atmosphere is having too much air compared to fuel. The flames tend to stop roaring and instead look like big flames licking around. Most smiths try for a reducing atmosphere because it helps stop any oxidizing of the steel which reduces scale. Check out this picture for a thumbnail idea of what to look for.

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    Thanks for the pic/ info that helps a ton. I am running a little on the lean side, Thank you Sir

  3. Hi everyone been a minute since my last inquiry on forge/burners popping that problem is solved, new issue that i can't find an answer to, I may be and probably am over looking it, i just cannot seem to locate the answer. Thanks in advance for any help! How do I tell if I've got to much oxygen or to much propane? 

  4. On 4/28/2020 at 9:44 AM, Dan Hertzson said:

    Whistling is irritating, but popping is bad.  That sound is usually a result of the flame front burning back faster than the fuel gas delivery at the burner outlet (flare, in your case).  This results in the flame moving back into the burner tube, heating it and preigniting before it exits that tube.  There are several typical solutions, but they amount to two general fixes:  increase the amount of fuel/air that exits your burner (increase gas pressure and entrain more air, open that air entry point by removing some obstructing fittings, change your mig tip location to improve the ventauri effect...) or reduce the size of your burner outlet flare.  The latter will limit the maximum heat you can produce with the burner, so you are probably on the right path with your current solution.

    Thanks everyone for all the info it has been a great deal of insight and knowledge that i lack as a newbie to forging, i will post my results when i get the t burners done.  Thanks 

  5. Mig tips 1 1/2" in bell ,yes centered, after it gets hot, yes vertical, I opened up the back exhaust more and raised my pressure to 5 psi that seemed to work this morning, thank you for your knowledge and help , i will run my forge like that and see what it does . Thanks again for your help!

    1 hour ago, Gary LT said:

    There are other variables Charlie, a) how far the mig tip is positioned into the tube (or the bell), b) are they centered, c) does it start whistling or backfiring after the forge is hot? (Your pipes are vertical over the heat), etc.

    A ten inch burner, (longer yet with flare on the end), should be plenty long enough using a .023,  can’t say because mine were not that long. 

     

    Try what I suggested first.

    GaryLT

     

  6. 27 minutes ago, Gary LT said:

    Well, have you increased the PSI, 2.5 is economical but does whistling and backup flaming stop by increasing the PSI in stages, (5, 8, 10) what is happening at the burner tube ends? Blue flame or is the blue flame dancing away from the burner end? 

    Gary LT

    Blue flame is there and it doesn't dance around, or away, i have tried higher pressure just not in stages. Could my flares or, my 2" burner tube holders cause it, my flares do not fit tight inside the liner could this be part of my problem?

  7. 2 hours ago, Charlie Jack said:

    Yes some small flames, my air intake is 3/4"×1 1/2"  reducing bell black iron gas fittings, sounds more like a pop and whistle mix, kind of like a venturi setup, i think.

    10" burners 2.5 psi, air intake is 1 1/4 " not 1 1/2" with 4, 1/4" set screws to brass caps tapped for 0.023tip. Do i need to be able to control my air intake?

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