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_Tombo_

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  1. Both blades are beveled, I chose two different grind styles to suit the construction style. The smaller one is just under 1/8" at the spine, and so I gave it a convex grind. The bigger one is slightly over 13/16", so I opted for this deeper flat grind. Both tested before finished edge against a 2x4 clamped in my post vise with 20+ hard hits up and down the edge, and both held up nicely (this was after I tested them pre-bevel against a scrap of 1/2 x 4 mild steel clamped in the vise and similar ferocity. I'm a little concerned about the tip of the bigger bolo, mostly if all the chopping force was concentrated at the tip, it would be liable to chip or maybe break off. It's the price I payed for the flat grind. Bigger bolo has a paper cutting edge on it, still a little fury looking, but left it like that and wrapped it, handle scales are fitted and glued over the weekend. The smaller bolo is waiting 1/8" rod, which I've been waiting for in the mail for some time, but hopefully I get that one glued up early next week - I'll wait to do the final edge until then
  2. Thanks for all the responses about the bolos - here's a couple pictures after the 3x temper at 375 next to the 11 layer 1084/15n20 I welded during temper cycles got bolos. Think I'm going to grind of the edges to endure my welds are good and pick the bolos back up Monday with a material quality test = some very hard whacks at a 2x4 before I start grinding in bevels. Gotta make sure the metal and heat treat were sound for these chopping Filipino multi-tools
  3. Absolutely, @Brian Myers - my wife thought I was seriously hurt when that little slip up happened - there were THAT many loud expletives, haha. I had just finished almost two days worth of hand sanding, and putting an edge on it before wrap up and handle work. Luckily that sharpening pass ended up getting me what I wanted from the edge, so I didn't have to try chasing it from the "new" starting point. Woof.
  4. Sorry to blow up the forum, but I've been busy, and the camp knife and this chefs knife were completed and sent off at the same. Here's definitely my best work to date - a forged to shape 15n20 8.5" chefs knife. Forged to a around 3/16, and then ground in a continuous taper from tip to heal, I've posted an image that shows the resulting distal taper after bevels and hand sanding. I hand sanded to 400, then hand polished with flitz and a shop towel. Scales are walnut sanded to 600 with brass pins and several layers of food safe Danish oil. The entire blade/handle got two layers of carnuba wax prior to shipping. This was also my first attempt at a makers Mark, which I definitely would like to simplify - for now it is 5/32" letter stamps individually. Going to experiment making my own stamp. Thanks for looking Forgot the spec sheet, here it is
  5. Thanks for the reply and image, @Dan HertzsonHertzson The one on top definitely has a longer, if not too long of a handle. I was not that happy with the way that handle turned out in general, partially because I was forging 3/8" 5160 by hand, and maybe I didn't have the endurance on forging day to make a better handle. The lower one follows a traditional bolo more closely, and though I have big hands, it does fit me pretty well, wouldn't want it much smaller unless it was for someone with small hands. Yesterday, I got the new bolo thinned out to my target thickness, and while normalizing cycles were going on, I reprofiled the first bolo to remove the recurve, and began thinking it out. I got it to .155" think, and decided I liked it there. It had already normalized, so I went ahead and quenched both blades, and did first round of tempering before bed time. Two more rounds of tempering today - so I'm going to cut and stack some demascus for an upcoming project while I wait.
  6. Here is a bolo knife I just forged yesterday, and the pictures shows after I've cleaned up the profile and handle shape. Going to grind it flat, add pin holes, then heat treat before grinding bevels. This was an earlier commission, and in the photo of two knives you can see the first one I attempted with the pin holes already drilled. They specifically wanted me to use a retired leaf spring, and I didn't have any experience working with such thick 5160. I had a good knife going, but forged WAY too thick, and with my little 4x36, it took me several days to grind from the 5/16-3/8 forged thickness to a heavy 3/16 that it is now, and I think it's still way too thick, hence me forging a new one out. I'm addition to shooting for a smaller blade overall, I also wanted to get rid of the recurve- it's real tricky on my grinder to get into tight spaces for the bevels and final edge. So far I'm much happier with the handle shape, and I am much closer to my 1/8" desired finish thickness, hoping it's going to grind out without getting too thin. I've watched Filipinos making bolos, and it's amazing how quickly they work - granted they often work with one or two strikers - but they can make stacks of big 5160 knives forged to shape, and they make it look effortless in that high humidity tropical heat - humbling.
  7. Thank you guys for the responses - definitely agree that the little nubbin at the finger choil is a little petite, I know one good knock will likely damage it - something to address on future knives. Same deal with it being fair blocky in the handle - my tendency from architectural fabrication is to leave things crisp, but I need to start feeling handles instead of seeing them.
  8. Here is my earliest commission! I temporarily lost my job due to the stay at home orders - and so when that happened, I decided to work on knife making. I decided to make a classic chef's knife, make it real pretty, and post it on social media. After the first week of shelter in place, I had completed the chefs knife and posted it - and my friends and family went nuts for it, and suddenly, I had 5 commissions for knives to be made! This is the first commission I received, but at this point, the 3rd one I've sent off to the new owner (the first two were very small wood carving knives, so I was able to crank them out pretty quickly) I designed this to be a camp knife - I wanted the belly to be like a hatchet in shape, I wanted the handle shaped well for chopping, I used tubes instead of rod as pins for lanyard use, and I left the spine thick enough to be batoned. Custom features include choice of natural ash wood scales, smaller handle (smaller female who ordered it), and semi polished satin finish (I would I have left it machine ground to 320, but she wanted it shiny!). I'm mostly happy with the build, though I've been unhappy with the middle pin location ever since I put a hole in the tang! Happy to take any type of feedback!
  9. @Doug Lester that's a good idea on improving my platen, but I'm afraid it won't be so simple on my grinder - it's belt replacement system is not incrimentally adjustable, it instead has a "latch" that is either under tension or loose - and so I think the added size of the new plate material might be too much tension for the belt and/or latch system. I will experiment with some flat bar shimming, see if that will fit comfortably - I wish I wasn't unemployed, I'm positive I have some 1/8 x 4 cold rolled a36 that I could make a part from to prove the concept, and I even have some 10x32 flat head fasteners to make it happen... But unfortunately I haven't been to work in a month. I may try this once I get back to work, I'll let you know. In the long term, I definitely want a 2x72, and I had been preparing for the purchase before this covid thing happened - hadn't decided whether to purchase or build (I'm a metal fabricator, so I was mostly weighing cost savings of building vs purchasing, since time was the limiting factor). I see lots of advice on 2x72 - so sorry if I'm sending my own thread off path - but any pointers on which way to go would be appreciated. I'm positive I want a 2hp motor wired for 220 and a vfd - but the chassis I'm still not married to. I do want to get as much utility as I can for my money - I really want to get a largish contact wheel, flat platen that is easily removed for slack grinding and/or 3ft diameter platen ala Mamasi fire arts. I also want to make sure I have small wheels, they would be so epic for things like the finger choil, etc. So I'm leaning towards an origin blade maker for price, or potentially something like the Northridge for added quality. Again, would love suggestions for models to check out. Trying bro get the whole kit and kaboodle for 2k or less. Obv, a big ask.
  10. Good tips on the hand sanding, finer grits, and surface conditioning belts - i am familiar/have experience with all these things and a couple knives I am about to put finishing touches on will show where I'm at with that. I suppose I should explain this knife. One of my good buddies commissioned basically this blade, but i wanted to test the material I had before committing to his blade, so that's why I built this one as a blacksmiths knife, it was a prototype. I'm really glad I did this process though, because I got a feel for this smaller knife, and learned some things that I'd like to change for the final. I plan to build that one with a full tang construction and natural oak wood scales. I am working with a 4x36 grinder, so getting crisp plunge lines is a tricky, so I am going to do a hemispherical relief where the blade meets the choil for easier sharpening/plunge and easier re-sharpening when it's time. I figure he'll need to do this occassionally if he really uses it being that it's likely 5160. I've also decided I want to make a spring Fuller, and I'll make it so that I can use it both as a spring Fuller and a bottom tool - the bottom tool will be very useful for hammering in the finger choil - this time around I held the blade in tongs with my knees over a piece of 3/8 mild steel round that I held over the anvil with myleft hand, and hammered with my right. Took a couple heats, but I bet I could easily do it in one with the bottom tool in the Hardy. @Doug Lester - I'm planning to leave this knife as it is and not do any more bevel work. Since it was a prototype, I see it as part of the project I'm making for my buddy - if he wants it I'll probably include it with the knife I make him, so I want to keep time down. Besides, it already has a killer edges on it, stropped and shaving
  11. Thanks guys! Yeah, I would have liked more sanding too - but my 120 and 240 belts are smoked, waiting on an order! I have definitely made some knives with some deeper grinds, I'll post them up here soon. This covid thang has meant that I have an unprecedented amount of garage time! A blessing and a curse
  12. First post, long time reader - thank you all for your contributions, forum communities like this expand the world's knowledge and abilities, myself included. I've been making knives for a couple of months now, have done a few in stock removal, but I really prefer the forging method, forging is so much more fun for me. This one is made from a piece of truck leaf spring, forged down into a half inch by half inch square bar, and then forged into the shape. It's the first time I've made a blacksmith's knife that includes any sort of dressing on the handle. Pretty happy with how the leather cord wrap turned out, it's the first time I've attempted something like this. I chose to heat treat this knife in the forge, and tempered it back to 385 in the oven. Holds a very sharp shaving edge, and it's very strong, way stronger than a bird / fish hunter's knife needs! I love to hear any critiques, though I bet I already know some of them that will turn up. Thank you guys for reading, and I I'm happy to now be a participant instead of just a bystander
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