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Alberto S

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    Ottawa, Ontario

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  1. Thanks Geoff, I agree, it is a shame however the unit has a motor issue which makes it not worthwhile as it is. My thought is that it might be a good platform to start with, it weighs a lot and is extremely well built, it should be able to take the abuse and would save from having to fabricate a frame to start with. Alberto
  2. I have access to the same overhead router pictured below. It occurred to me that the body of this tool could possibly be used in the fabrication of an air hammer... the overhead motor and table assembly are easily removed to make way for anvil/cylinder etc. Feedback/opinions are much appreciated. Regards, Alberto
  3. Thanks Joshua, as happy as I am with my knife, I'm always looking to improve anything I do, your comments are appreciated.
  4. Thank you, that is a beautiful blade Joel!
  5. Thanks for the tip Grant, I’ll be sure to correct that next time around.
  6. The blade is stock reduction from 1/4" plate steel, initial shape was done with a grinder and cut off wheel, the rest was done on a 6x60 belt sander... I'm a woodworker so it was the only thing available to me for sanding, I would like to get a 2x72 sander one day. The spacer is a piece of Padauk, it's a little more orange/red in person but does turn more brown with time. The bolsters are attached via brass rods drilled through both bolster and blade, I also used epoxy to help keep them in place. Here are some additional photos.
  7. Thanks Joel, I'll wait to see how it ages, I like the idea of a chocolate brown appearance to the blade. Thank you Kevin!
  8. Thanks for the information Alan, that's funny my wife was concerned when I told her I was going to make the shiny stuff look old and rusty!
  9. Thank you, perhaps I shouldn’t have said cheating as I’m very happy with the outcome, however I’m thinking the alternate method with clay would have given me a more durable finish?? I’ve been keeping the blade oiled at all times and being vigilant about putting it away right after each use. The forced patina on the blade seems to be holding out well, is it safe to assume that if I continue to do so this finish will last fairly long term or should I expect that at some point it will need redoing?
  10. Thanks Doug, I appreciate the advice, by edge quench I'm assuming submerse only the edge into oil, thereby making the upper portion of the blade softer than the business end, correct? Alberto
  11. Thank you! The steel started out as a 1/4” plate of O1 steel I sourced from a local steel supply store. For heat treat, I brought it up gradually in temperature in a kiln until non magnetic then quenched it in Canola oil. From there it went into the oven at 400 degrees for an hour, I hope I got this right... it does seem to hold an edge nicely. The wood comes from a chunk of Ziricote which was gifted to me by a family member who brought it from Belize. I was not aware of the process of using clay to develop a hamon line when I heat treated the knife so cheated and did the mustard thing for
  12. Thanks for the encouragement and kind words.
  13. Too kind but thank you. With the amount of time invested, I’m not sure I would make much of a go of it!
  14. Hello, I've been lurking here for awhile and have gathered up as much information as I could in preparation for making my first knife which I've considered doing for some time. This site has been very helpful to me and I've read many posts which helped guide me in my efforts. I had considered buying a Henckels Bob Kramer, the look and feel appealed to me, I chose however to attemp making something similar and save a few dollars while learning something new in the process. Apologies for the unoriginal design, but as mentioned I set out to create a tribute to what I considered a b
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