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David Heron

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Everything posted by David Heron

  1. Ok so second knife is done (other than putting an edge on it) much better outcome than the first. That decarb paste worked a treat, thanks for the tip Alan. I’m so pleased with the result, still have much learn but whilst not perfect, it’s pretty good.
  2. So, ground to 120, tangs in good shape, choil is good shape. Spine is still to thick (urgg) it’s not far away but want to get it right. Makes me anxious about normalizing. Have ordered decarb paste (expensive but I believe it lasts a long time) if read mixed reviews about borax, dunno.
  3. Back for round two. Much more confident this time having learnt from the last go. Has taken about 4 hours to get it to this stage.
  4. just included a couple of photos if you weren’t able to open the video
  5. Thanks for your encouragement Brian, it’s my favorite thing to do.
  6. So, maybe 4 months ago I started by building a forge, bought an anvil, made an anvil stand, fashioned three hammers and four sets of tongs (slotted jaw tongs are my absolute favorite) mucked around trying to develop some skills and the following is the result. The good; overall pleasant lines handle is beautiful The bad; spine is too thick choil is poorly shaped the brass collar is a poor fit in part the heel is poorly formed The ugly theres a tiny crack At the point there’s a grind mark close to the collar the fit bet
  7. Thank you all for your kind words. Alex I’ve taken the blade down to 240, so wished I had of gone to 400 prior to ht. Magnetic knife holder worked a treat but it obviously attracts the waste from sanding, thinking it will cause issues with scratching. Alan, 1075 started off at 5.4 mm, there available a 3.4 mm version for next blade. What is anti scale powder? Billy, I’m assuming we live in different hemispheres and time zones making the posts a little difficult to coordinate.
  8. Just as an aside, I had a magnetic knife rack hanging around, it was brilliant to hold the blade whilst hand sanding. Not sure if there is a reason not to do this, but really worked well. its ok, you can thank me later
  9. Ok, firstly my apologies for the ever frequent posts, I’m all a bit anxious. I read a lot in the fit and finish posts (love the idea of a water cooled grinder) as to what to do post hardening and thought best thing to do was hand sand. I’ve built a couple of boats before, 30% timber, 20% resin, 50% sandpaper, I like hand sanding. First grind pre heat treat was at 120, thinking next time I’d take it to 240, Sanding out the “vertical” grind lines is tedious. Next time I would leave some meat on the shallow end of the blade, I was lucky the blade stayed true during the hardening process. I’m thi
  10. Just gave it a quick grind, being careful to keep it cool. Just hardened the blade, went really well. A file scatted off and gave that ring of heard on videos. No cracks or warps. It’s off to the oven now. I’m so excited, it’s like being a kid on Christmas morning.
  11. Not sure if anyone is online at the minute, but I just normalized again and it developed scale only on one side, should I grind it out now or just go to temper and do it after?
  12. Thanks so much for your advice, thinking I’m going to do as you suggest. I started to forge out the tang but things got pear shaped quickly do I decided to cut it off with the angle grinder then grind. So a bit more like stock removal rather than bladesmithing, but what the hey, whatever works. I still have a long way to go with my hammer and anvil skills. I did forge out the rest of the knife and couldn’t be happier with the outcome.
  13. So, some things I need to consider. The spine is currently 2.5mm, clearly to thick. I’m anxious about the heat treat, I couldn't bare the thought of the blade failing at this point. I’m sooo happy with the blade at the moment and I’m thinking spending more time thinning down the spine could compromise the blade and equally cause an error with the grind. Do I just accept what it is, or strive for a more “perfect” result? I should have spent more time at the anvil thinning down the stock. Grinding is tedious but rewarding. You start with this scaled hammered thing, looking somethi
  14. Not bad, not bad at all for a newbie. Having said that self praise is no recommendation. Over to you all for appraisal. Going to normalize again then heat treat.
  15. I’ve learnt so much today; 1. 1075 steel is hard 2. keep you work clean 3. flying scale hurts 4. my forge is a beast 5. never make the handle first 6. steel has a personality 7. Bladesmithing is sooo much fun Also normalizing isn’t that scary
  16. At last, let the games begin.
  17. I know I harp about this but I’m so grateful for your mentoring. I’m all set to go but sadly no steel yet. I have a baffle for the thermal cycling and have fabricated a steel tube for the quench, hoping the single burner forge gets hot enough, lll find out soon enough. I have a number of Shun knives also Wusthof that I’ve run the vernier over, I’m beginning to understand my passion for Japanese style kitchen knives may exceed my ability. I’m comfortable with the forging process, thinking I’ll do ok with the grind, fabricating the handle and the fitting to the blade is probably the thi
  18. Just a couple of quick questions, (I hope you all don’t tire of my endless posts) 1. I’m committed to a 6” petty for my first blade (still waiting for the steel) What is a reasonable spine width for the blade given my experience (or lack of it) 2. Is a “hammered” finish above the primary grind easier than a single grind to the spine 3. is there a preferred radius for the pointy end of a cross pien hammer Ive left no post unread in an attempt to understand these concepts but are still left with confusion and seek your recommendation Im so grateful
  19. Alan, no offense taken, mearly attempting humor (sadly as advanced as my my bladesmithing skills) (always consider API, assume positive intent) Having said that Larry the lathe is feeling better but Graham the grinder is still smarting, just sayin) Note to self; 1. when making the shiny bit between the handle and the blade, maybe collar, maybe bolster, cut the slot for the tang prior to profiling said piece 2. needle files are tedious 3. a Dremel is not a precision tool 4. the music you listen too whilst at the anvil is incompatible when using needle files
  20. Your quit right of course Billy, however blacksmithing as is life, is never that simple. I was in fact working on my tongs (I have two pairs) I had turned up a rivit on my new mini lathe that Alan was nun to complementary about (little like calling one of my children ugly really, but still) to replace the bolt I had originally installed. I set the rivit which made the jaws to tight, heated them up again and was trying to work the jaws with the other pair of tongs and my gloved hand. Then came the dance of pain, starts with a puff of smoke from the burning leather then mild discomfort which qui
  21. Just a couple of housekeeping questions 1. Is there a way of ordering these posts, last post first? 2. Can anyone recommend a glove that will in any way stop me from burning my (insert expletive startling with “f” and ending with “ing”) fingers. I’m currently wearing leather riggers gloves, the first thing I notice is smoke coming off the glove, then closely followed by an intense burning feeling, closely followed by me attempting to shake the f#%^ing glove off. I get technique is a big factor but the Dragons Breath (an expression I learnt from this Forum and which fully describes
  22. Thanks Charles, I live in Melbourne Australia, I’ve booked into a course here in Melbourne but COVID is the blocker at the moment.
  23. Thanks so much Alan and Charles, I truly appreciate your time and advice. You must have the patience of Jobe answering the same questions over and over. Point being, it’s not intuitive and there is so much conflicting opinion about this, and almost everything else about the dark art of bladesmithing. Given your advice I now have a much better understanding of decalescence. I still have so many more questions than answers but think the way forward is to give it a crack. I’m not sure I will truly understand the process unless I do it, if it all turns pair shaped, failure is a great teacher.
  24. Thanks so much, I’ve read and watched so much on the subject I’ve become unsure. You've been so generous with your time but wonder if you can confirm the following procedure. 1. forge 2. place in preheated oven at 180c for two hours, let air cool to the touch place in preheated oven at 180c for two hours, let air cool to the touch place in preheated oven at 180c for two hours, let air cool to the touch 3. grind 4. place in preheated oven at 180c for two hours, let air cool to the touch 5. place piece in a tube, feat to 1450f (magnet test + 5 mins) immediately qu
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