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Gilbert McCann

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Everything posted by Gilbert McCann

  1. This may not be popular, but how about a hair dryer I have a friend thats been using one for a while. Julian Antunes made or maybe still makes some incredible stuff with what appears to be a hair dryer. I think just don't restrict the flow. It should be way more efficient than a venturi set up.
  2. After helping my brother in law at his son's house trimming bushes. I slotted 4 hidden tang knives.
  3. Squared up some blocks hopefully I can hit the tops tomorrow.
  4. Got an order from a Pitmaster customer for a traditional Butcher (bull nose) knife. I'm making 2 one lighter about .223 mm at the heel the other .310 both about 8 inches. There Aeb-l with bolsters I cast out of a boat propeller. BTW one is sanded to 240.
  5. Thank you @Alan Longmire Souped up Harbor freight mini mill
  6. @Charles dP Yes a flexible layer with adjustable 1/4 inch screws. I leave a .0937 inch lip at the front of the bolster.
  7. I'm really liking the sanding jig (not original) I made. Earlier this week I worked on bolsters.
  8. @Aaron GougeI haven't used 80crv2 . I would think just over core thickness.
  9. @Emiliano Carrillodoes some really nice work and is talented at forging. @Aaron GougeMy spine was over .130 final is .125 which is thicker than my normal. I do consider how my outer and core materials move in the previous picture it was an Apex ultra core which moves similarly to 52100. In this shot I went just over a .250 wrought with 3/16 Apex core. @Kreg WhiteheadI like the way the nickel looks and it may or may not help with carbon migration. Also I'm used to welding with it.
  10. That's it sometimes I'll taper the whole billet intending one end to be the tip. On this blade I had a 3/16×2×3 core and just thicker stainless cladding with a nickel shim and got a 9 inch ×2 1/8 hidden tang chef.
  11. I don't forge my profile,but after I cut out my blade shape I check my core steel and often will forge in spine to edge and distal taper. By the way my cladding is the same thickness as my core or slightly thicker.
  12. Forged out some wrought and propeller for bolsters. Picking handle materials.
  13. Stuff I'm working on. Apex ultra with stainless cladding and wrought iron.
  14. I've only made one test blade and I really liked it. Loved the way it sharpened and seemed to perform better than AKS toughness and wear resistance specs. I only used a freezer one article said it requires -120 F.
  15. My stats are one chef knife one paring knife out of 3 billets. Nothing different in heat treat always to the core material which unless you are getting fancy shouldn't approach the melting point of copper. As far as forging for me it was a really tight temperature range. I doubt I'll try it again.
  16. Haven't been to busy knife-making lately I work outside in Phoenix(hot). Here's an integral W-1. Hopefully I can finish it up tomorrow. 3.5×1.25 inch round bar.
  17. Ordered looking forward to playing with it. Probably San mai to reduce the area that needs to be ground. Specs look great.
  18. That was an interesting process I enjoyed watching it. Got the wheels turning. Good visiting with you.
  19. Did some handle work yesterday. My first time working with Bloodwood burl I should probably always wear gloves. I didn't, now after much scrubbing with orange pumice stuff and a brush my hands are dyed black with a hint of blue. The wife says oh that's nice. San mai Chef knife. This shot is after I wore a glove.
  20. I was taught you could use muriatic or similar sodium bisulfate in my case to etch and see a pattern (in the welding process stacking etc) it etches nice and clean. Something else when I made my Cu mai it was suggested I use 30% muriatic acid 30% ferric chloride 30% distilled water I used something similar but diluted it quite a bit.
  21. @Gary LThere's a shot of mine. It was very useful. I'm not sure about moving rapidly with the foot pedal but probably 2 or 3 squeezes per heat. I used 1 1/2×3/16 square tube,top cross bar was 1/2×2 flat bar.I tried to leave the top removable but kept breaking bolts. After welding the top cross bar on I had no more problems. Here are some of my dies and you can see what I connected to the pressure release. I like to think I weld better now
  22. Hopefully I'll do some twisting tomorrow. It will be my second time with multi bars. Groceries and chores first.
  23. My guess would be by hand hammering it's separating between layers especially if the outer layers were say 3/16 or less. I don't think it would take much to get some oxidation in there. I weld my San mai all the way around but I think at least adding a weld in the middle would increase your success.
  24. Thank you very much Gentlemen. @Brian DoughertyI made this one through tang or take down style. Most of the handle work was done off the knife. To often I'll nick or scratch something in final finishing. This method was suggested to me in a recent lesson.
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