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Al Dolney

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    South TN
  1. McMaster has W1, O1, D2, S7 and A2 in rod form as well as flats.
  2. Found a 2hp 3ph Weg motor on Zoro, about $200, so almost equivalent in price to the AD version that the grinder previously had (sorry Mike!). KBAC-27D VFD on order from Amazon as well. Gonna start on a solid work rest today.
  3. I bought it. He still had it hooked up and ready to run. Surprisingly quiet, even at full speed. Very solid feeling when either the vertical or horizontal mode. Got it home and mounted it on my grinder table/bench. Doesn't move one bit. Downsides: Automation Direct is out of stock until the end of August and Mike Haversack here on BSF is out of 2 hp 3ph motors. Surplus Center has none; McMaster has one, but it's $700. I don't trust egay; CL de nada. Amazon has some, but most are ~$100 more than the Auto Direct version ($165). I could buy one from one of the knife grinder sellers but they want +$900 for both the motor and VFD. Any ideas for a motor? ETA: Reason he's selling it: Work full time, college full time, 3 little kids. Something had to give.
  4. And automation direct is out, Surplus Center no 2hp 3ph motors. A day late and a dollar short - as usual.
  5. Here is the page for the motor that was on the grinder before I bought it: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors_-_general_purpose/general_purpose/mtrp-002-3bd36 This is what I want to replicate and I'd rather do it via giving a fellow member business vs. just 'Zoning it.
  6. Since last night I was able to do some research. Seems it's a pretty new company, started ~2017-2018 or so, or at least started making grinders then. https://blackfoxknifeworks.com/knifegrinder/black-fox-one Says it's designed and tested in Walla Walla, WA and built in Bend OR. The version I'm looking at was bought in mid-2018, so this one is an earlier version; don't know if that makes a difference or not. Right now, Black Fox is on it's 4th generation grinder; I suspect this one is a 1st generation unit. Going a bing search, I found a thread on bladeforums where one knifemaker was not impressed but the owners themselves were happy with them. One criticism was the in-built VFD (see the pic at the BFK site above), not allowing to see where the VFD came from or who made it i.e. was it questionable quality. This version has the stand-alone VFD, so this isn't an issue. Another possible complaint or concern was the use of gas shocks; there's at least two, perhaps three used on the unit. I don't know if that's an issue or not. This particular unit, according to the owner, was not used much because of military obligations, so essentially it's brand new. As said, the motor and VFD do not come with it; but he has both so I can see and take pics to make sure I get the correct replacements. If I get it, I'll more than likely go the 220 VAC/2 hp/VFD route. I see no reason to half arse it.
  7. Answers in order: Yes, you can see the drive pulley in the 2nd pic below on the right. 5/8" (my bad for not mentioning this - very important). Both. The motor is face mounted to the grinder (3/8" socket head screws); the VFD is mounted to the motor baseplate. As long as there's a baseplate and it has holes - I'm good. This is the grinder I got, a Black Fox One. I got everything shown here except the motor and VFD. It's hard to see, but the VFD is mounted to the motor baseplate via a simple bracket, which I'll make. Thanks Mike!
  8. Ok, let's get this show on the road; I got the grinder, now I need a motor. Mike, I need the equivalent motor to the nameplate in the pic below. Basics: 2 hp, 3 ph, Frame = 56C (56HC suitable for 56, 143T or 145T frame mounting dimensions), RPM = 3450-3600. Total price to 38449. PM me your business and address and I'll send you a check or cash, your preference, or an on-line site where I can buy. Thanks, Al
  9. Uh oh, the silence is deafening. Did I accidentally step in some site past history doo-doo?
  10. From the ad: " I have a Black Fox One 2 x 72 Knife grinder that grinds both vertically and horizontally. It is a solid machine, but does no fit my needs anymore. Comes with Flat platen with pyroceramic glass (to reduce heat) and tool arm, small wheel attachment with tool arm (no wheels included). The motor and VFD in the picture are NOT included so you will need to supply your own motor. The frame by itself was $800 and attachment were in excess of $300. This is a good deal if you are looking for a solid machine to get started " They want $800 for it so a motor and VFD (if I decide to use one) would be on top of that. I would like to hear what you think. These don't come up very often, so I probably need to not let the grass grow under my feet if it's a good one. Thanks!
  11. First time I used that, I'd drop it right to the bottom!
  12. Jerrod, sounds you and Daniel are saying pretty much the same thing: Higher tempering temp is better. Makes sense the one in the video was left too brittle. Thanks,
  13. Alan, thanks for the link to the tempilstick, I had forgotten about those. And especially thank you for the warning to preheat before welding. 'Appreciate it!
  14. I was planning to harden only the spring end. The handle is simple 1x2 tubing, not hardenable. Good to know about normalizing it: I figure welding the spring onto the handle would make that end the most toughest and wouldn't have to worry about it. AC's tool broke right at the bend IRC; hence the bend to the edge concerns me most. Thanks,
  15. I'm in the process of building a Burke Bar. If you're familiar with the YTer Essential Craftsman, you know he's a big fan of them. Pic below of what one looks like if you haven't seen one before. I'm making the business end out of a piece of Toyota 4runner truck spring leaf material, about 1/2" thick, thinning down at the point (see pic). My question is about tempering. The temper on this tool needs to be in the spring range, not knife hardness. Which is more than the 500-550 my toaster oven will deliver (I think). In the video below, EC discusses the tempering of the BB end at about 14:40. He says that bar needs to be in the "Royal Purple" stage so that it is tough and won't break. This particular BB was sent to another YTer, Andrew Camarata. If you know AC, you can probably guess where this is going: AC pretty much immediately broke the business end of the bar. In other words, the bar was not tempered enough and was too brittle. So long winded way to ask: What temps am I looking for for spring steel "springiness" for the business end and what's a reliable way to measure that temp. Heat sources are either my toaster oven (550 max) or my wood fired forge. BB pic: EC Burke bar build video:
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