Jump to content

Eric White

Members
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About Eric White

  • Birthday May 31

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Smith, AR
  • Interests
    Video games, working on vehicles, and FISHING. Lots and lots of fishing

Recent Profile Visitors

51 profile views
  1. It worked! I'd use parchment paper and not wax paper if I did it again.
  2. The consumable brick I used as the forge floor had very little support across the bottom of the brick. The bottom corners were putting excess pressure on the liner and it kept cracking. So I put a layer of damp, buttered in satanite kaowool down to give the brick support and to level the forge floor. I also dampened and buttered long kaowool runners in satanite (1/2" x 20" or so) and firmly placed them against the brick and sidewall. The bricks are wrapped in wax paper so they hopefully come out leaving a nice channel for future bricks to occupy once the satanite is air dried. Once everything is flush to the bricks I plan to removed the brick, fire the forge to cure the satanite. Please oh great bladesmithing gods tell me I'm almost done with this never ending build.
  3. Just a quick update on things. After long communications with Frosty, I believe I have reached the finish line. Once I re-satanite the ports, I will post pictures of the first forging experience I get out of it. That's probably the most annoying part if I'm honest. Taking the burners out to tune, retune, retune, retune(you get the picture) really takes a toll on the satanite. Luckily the majority of it doesn't come off with a shop vac directly on the cracked layer therefore it's basically just sealing the cracks. When people say the burners should be loud, they're LOUD. My neighbor came over and was mid sentence when I fired it up at 6 psi and it drowned him out almost entirely. He said he can hear it plum down the road as well so I must be doing something right! The yellow in the dragon's breathe is from the paper I used to light it up. Once it got ejected from the ports, the exhaust turns a nice blue color. Really satisfying to see after a long build. VID_20200703_214712.mp4
  4. Immediately after shutting the gas off at around 12-15 pounds. Dragon's breathe still looks like it needs some tuning but the new CO detector 4 feet away from it stayed nice and silent lol. Overall it gets hot as hell.
  5. Ran it at 6 psi and the orange tint to the flame was still present so I put the needle valve on it right before the ball valve, turned it may 1 full turn down from full open and presto. The dragon's breathe lost most of it's color and came back if I opened it back up. You're 100% right on the learning curve lol. The fluttering of the burners was due to a breeze near the end of the video. Thank you for your patience in this matter, Alan. You've been a really big help and I appreciate it a lot. VID_20200628_145507.mp4
  6. I think I'm going to get a needle valve and have it inline with the ball valve. I've gotten all the air I can get in to the tees without drilling holes. I don't want to do that. So maybe subtly restricting the propane will do the trick. Yay or nay?
  7. I started lower (4-6#'s) and then the video is of closer to 10-12#'s. I just kept turning up the regulator to see if it was going to get super rich on me again but it stayed that almost transparent orange color. The roar was much much louder. I'm going to get out there today and run it around 6#'s for a good while and see what I've got.
  8. I think this is the best I can do. The tapered mig tips were a different thread pattern, all I had to choose from until Monday, so I used the regular, straight from the package 0.030 tips. I spaced the tips towards the middle of the tees using washers before threading on the burner assembly. If they're not in the middle they're so close you cant tell. The flames are much more pale and only a hint of orange. Dang near transparent. VID_20200627_155223.mp4
  9. So I've got the 0.23 tips in cut back to about half way in the tee, no copper blocking the fuel and one of my burners refuses to stay lit. Full length 0.23 tips refuse to stay lit as well. I'm now attempting to use the 0.30 tips and slowly file them back closer to the center of the tee. Is my thinking on this matter correct in saying the further back towards center of the tee the 0.30 tips perhaps I could get the O2 intake just right for those tips?
  10. Also, I filed the mig tip down to put it in the middle of the tee but one of the burners refused to stay lit. So I tossed those and it's about 3/4 of the way to mixing chamber now. Stayed lit no problem at that point.
  11. I'm running with a 1" run * 3/4" chase tee, 6" BIP nipple. The mig tip is 0.30. Would you recommend bumping that down to like 0.23? Just to lean it out more?
  12. Update: Let the ITC 100 layers (two roughly 1/8th inch layers) dry for 48 hours and then ran it through 4 heat cycles to cure. This video is the first full heat. The dragon's breathe looks deceivingly yellow but it's orange with hints of blueish purple behind the orange. Let me know what y'all think! Thanks for stopping by! VID_20200626_200827.mp4
  13. I have memories of being taken to Yellowstone by my dad when I was young. The walkway in the 11th picture down had so much steam on it you couldn't see your hand in front of your face lol. Very beautiful place.
  14. Nice hatchet! Looks like it will handle a bearing for sure.
  15. What would be the negative effects of using the reducer with a straight port vs straight BIP to contoured port. Just more turbulence for the latter? Not trying to take the easy route and leave it the same if it's going to cause problems but more out of curiosity.
×
×
  • Create New...