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Eric White

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About Eric White

  • Birthday May 31

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Smith, AR
  • Interests
    Video games, working on vehicles, and FISHING. Lots and lots of fishing

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  1. Todd, Like I said, there a lot of awesome people on here that are great sources of information. I'm glad that you're getting a fair bit of the negatives from my build so you can avoid them on your end.
  2. Timgunn, Wow that was a lot of information to digest lol. I kinda follow you on most of it but what I take away most is if I ever experience flame back, which I haven't experienced yet and hope not to but realistically probably will, I should look to increase the pressure at the regulator. I've been acting under the impression that regulating the pressure somewhat regulates the temperature within the forge. I should probably just get the notion of controlling temperature out of my head and focus on the stability of the burners for the volume of the the forge I have built first and
  3. So I got out to the forge today! Let it run for about 30 minutes, got a few hammer strikes in to the Gladius and then got sketched out about the forge. Once the internal temperature got orange hot, the burners stayed lit very well. Before that though I had one blow out from a slight breeze coming through. I had some smoking/ outgassing from the paint happening so that made me decide to turn it off. I'm going to try again tomorrow and hopefully my nerves will settle to allow me to try a longer session. I get this way with new hobbies lol. Is there anything that I should inherently
  4. Most use bubble alumina or Mizzou to build the forge floor up to a level surface. As I understand it bubble alumina is a little more rigid/ robust and flux resistant if planning to use flux while forge welding. I may look into buying some black beauty burners when I can swing the cost. They're cheap and looking through the anvil fire site, I like how much precision goes in to their manufacturing process. They sound solid
  5. Mine butts up pretty tight but there is a slight amount of heat loss around it. The best way that I've heard to mitigate that is to use plastic wrap when applying the satanite. When the satanite is wet, put the plastic wrap over it on each side and shut the door and allow it to dry. I DIDNT do that on mine and I pay for it with small cracks every once in a while. I chamfered the second layer of kaowool in the forge to slightly protrude into the concave door. A lot of the forges I've seen don't open and it is certainly not necessary to hinge it but for large projects (axes in parti
  6. I've been in contact with Frosty throughout the build and he never suggested grinding out the threads. He said I should more go by the sound of the burners and that they should be LOUD and the dragon's breathe should be slightly yellow to clear. They get incredibly hot, so bright yellow hot within 10-15 minutes that you can't stare in it or be blinded. They're so loud that a neighbor of mine said you can hear it from 5 houses down and I couldn't hear him while trying to explain that to me. I have yet to run it for more than 15 minutes as I've got a lot of personal stuff going on keeping me fro
  7. Here it is, folks. All finished as the peak of summer smacks us for 106°F days. The cart is rated for 220 pounds, rolls like crap because it's Harbor Freight, and I put kitty litter under the forge for added heat resistance/ fumblage. There will be caster modification in the near future. The quench tank is a soda keg from Pepsi (got it through homebrewing.org). There is the start of a Mainz Gladius on the "anvil" face I've been wanting to finish. I hope to start a new show and tell soon with that process. Until then, thanks for the support and information and hopefully this build helps someone
  8. It worked! I'd use parchment paper and not wax paper if I did it again.
  9. The consumable brick I used as the forge floor had very little support across the bottom of the brick. The bottom corners were putting excess pressure on the liner and it kept cracking. So I put a layer of damp, buttered in satanite kaowool down to give the brick support and to level the forge floor. I also dampened and buttered long kaowool runners in satanite (1/2" x 20" or so) and firmly placed them against the brick and sidewall. The bricks are wrapped in wax paper so they hopefully come out leaving a nice channel for future bricks to occupy once the satanite is air dried. Once everything
  10. Just a quick update on things. After long communications with Frosty, I believe I have reached the finish line. Once I re-satanite the ports, I will post pictures of the first forging experience I get out of it. That's probably the most annoying part if I'm honest. Taking the burners out to tune, retune, retune, retune(you get the picture) really takes a toll on the satanite. Luckily the majority of it doesn't come off with a shop vac directly on the cracked layer therefore it's basically just sealing the cracks. When people say the burners should be loud, they're LOUD. My neighbo
  11. Immediately after shutting the gas off at around 12-15 pounds. Dragon's breathe still looks like it needs some tuning but the new CO detector 4 feet away from it stayed nice and silent lol. Overall it gets hot as hell.
  12. Ran it at 6 psi and the orange tint to the flame was still present so I put the needle valve on it right before the ball valve, turned it may 1 full turn down from full open and presto. The dragon's breathe lost most of it's color and came back if I opened it back up. You're 100% right on the learning curve lol. The fluttering of the burners was due to a breeze near the end of the video. Thank you for your patience in this matter, Alan. You've been a really big help and I appreciate it a lot. VID_20200628_145507.mp4
  13. I think I'm going to get a needle valve and have it inline with the ball valve. I've gotten all the air I can get in to the tees without drilling holes. I don't want to do that. So maybe subtly restricting the propane will do the trick. Yay or nay?
  14. I started lower (4-6#'s) and then the video is of closer to 10-12#'s. I just kept turning up the regulator to see if it was going to get super rich on me again but it stayed that almost transparent orange color. The roar was much much louder. I'm going to get out there today and run it around 6#'s for a good while and see what I've got.
  15. I think this is the best I can do. The tapered mig tips were a different thread pattern, all I had to choose from until Monday, so I used the regular, straight from the package 0.030 tips. I spaced the tips towards the middle of the tees using washers before threading on the burner assembly. If they're not in the middle they're so close you cant tell. The flames are much more pale and only a hint of orange. Dang near transparent. VID_20200627_155223.mp4
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