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Marc Mancini

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  1. Not sure which forum this belongs in, and its not a knife, it is a tool, but not one used to forging, but is ferrous...lol anyway, I've wanted to forge a strike for Flint and Steel fire lighting for a long time, and finally got it done. Forged from O1 tool steel, went with a the 'J' style instead of the big C style and added a little twisted tail and quenched in canola oil. here you can see that it throws some pretty good sparks even with this 'marginal' Chert flake I had laying around. 2020-8-30-13-13-7.mp4
  2. Thanks Brian. I sort of figured there would be some issue with it.
  3. Working on building a 2x72 grinder from scrap and remembered I have an old 'inherited' Craftsman router that I will proabably never use. My original intent was to have it direct driven, but I fear that this router will spin too fast. Has anyone ever done it? I want to say that the RPM was somewhere over 20K... thoughts?
  4. Forged out a monkey tail straight razor and a Striker for a Flint and Steel set from the hot cut scrap. soaking in vinegar now...starting to feel the old hammering form coming back. Also Found a old rusty post leg vise at an antique shop, that came home with me for $25. its missing the spring and the attachment bracket but it still works. gotta fab up the mounting hardware and true up the jaws a bit. And I started welding up the frame to a 2x72 belt grinder, but I gotta decide on whether I'm making this a 3 wheel or 4 wheel.
  5. BTW Alan...WORKED LIKE A CHARM. did exactly as you described checking the color in the shadow in the recesses of the shop, just barely glowing, and let it cool. drilled pin holes with no issues!!! Thanks Man.
  6. LOL...you guys where spot on BTW...just tried drilling my pin holes after the ash 'anneal' and it was a no go...barely even scratched the surface. I know you can hot file, but is there such a thing as hot drilling? lol or may I should hot punch and drift a slot in the tang and drill the pin holes through the wood scales? guess I'm going to either be making hidden tangs with O1 going forward or figuring out that subcritical anneal that Alan mentioned.
  7. Interesting Brian...the first time I tried Id left the the end of the tang sticking out and that ended up being the only part I could drill through. I google searched and only found slow cooling inside the forge, but with the one-brick I didn't think that would work. Every other knife I've finished had been mystery steel from truck leaf or coil spring and never had a problem with the ash annealing. I thought I was dealing with air hardening at first. Thanks Alan...I'm not sure its necessary as I really didn't post that much content to begin with...
  8. Hello, I used to be Hickstick on here back in the early Oughts. I put away my forge and scrapped a lot of my 'projects' when I had my daughter and no longer had the time to forge. Well...she's now 17 and doing her own things (really...I just embarrass her in front of her friends with bad dad jokes ) and I have more free time. I recently picked up wood carving and thinking about forging some carver blades, so I dug out my one brick forge and propage torch and some steel, my old block anvil and started beating. I've got a few in the works right now, along with some
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