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Taylor Hendrix

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  • Location
    near Jeddo, Texas
  • Interests
    Potting, blacksmithing, chess.

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  1. A trick some potters use to help mix forced air burners is to place teased out SS wool - the super coarse, scrubby pad kind- in the mixing pipe down stream of the fuel input. Just enough to stick in the pipe and introduce turbulence for mixing, not enough to degrade your turn up. Has anyone tried this on a forced air burner for a forge? Do folks have good results using a release for the straws/crayons rather than resorting to burning or drilling out? What's your plan with the straws, Jaro? I'm going to make a 3x3x6 burner myself, so I'm interested to see how your project turns out.
  2. Thanks for the info. Brian, I hope your new forge is working out. I'll be working on one for myself very soon. I have 1 inch blanket already, but I just returned from finishing up a fiber kiln rebuild for a friend and scored a couple of square feet of 3 inch thick fiber.
  3. Can you really drag metal in and out of a coated fiber forge with no deleterious effects to the lining? I would think a one inch kiln shelf or a IFB split wouldn't add that much thermal mass to make preheat super long. Is that a thing for these types of forges? T
  4. Ah HA! Finally repaired my Harvey-drowned electric kiln. Working kiln means clay sales. Clay sales means money. Money means more blacksmithing stuff! Going to a hammer making workshop this Friday. Tooling up. T
  5. Alex, that's a great present. You must have been a good boy this year. For Christmas, I've given myself a one-day hammer workshop in conjunction with next year's Texas Blacksmith's Conference happening in my county (Fayette). Now, I've not been that good a boy this year, but, hey, I have a little shop money, so....... Looking forward to showing some great work here in the new year.
  6. Might be too late, but for accuracy, you will want to buy thermocouple wire. Thermocouples come in different flavors and so do, I think, the wires. I purchase large high temp TC for sticking into raku kilns and electric kilns and wire set ups with molded plugs are easy to find on the internet. Grainger is one. I use a FLUKE tc set for temp. From what I have been reading, heat treatments are very temperature dependent and require quite a tight tolerance. I'd find TC wire. It is made from the same materials as the bi metallic TC so as not to introduce more thermocoupling at the lead
  7. Found this thread while researching file suggestions. Look what I made in my super-freezing-cold-should-be-heated garage today. I am planning on doing most of my charcoal chopper shaping using files after the hot work. I only have big box store files and not many at that. Next project is a filing jig, but in the mean time I need to expand my file selection. (Look at all those empty spaces!) Is your above quote still a good file lineup for utility blade work, Alan?
  8. I enjoyed seeing the shots of his peened handles. I see on some the peen is flat and others the peen has been with a very very small fuller to give a design element. Was wondering how else it was done back in the day. T
  9. Some really great pieces, everyone. I've enjoyed looking through the WIPs and seeing what each maker focused in on. Hope to make something as nice one day. Enjoy the exchange. T
  10. One of the things I miss about the Texas coast: catching fish. Sigh.
  11. Nice tongs. Looks like your leaf fall rivals your scale fall! I'm going to freeze this winter!
  12. Hardy with fuller shaped, ready for the heat treat. Fits in the 3/4 hardy hole on the baby anvil. Tooling up for finishing my charcoal chopper. Ball punch and slot punch shaped ready for the heat treat. Tooling up for making a bottle opener. Why you ask? Because I deserve a beer. That's why.
  13. Thanks Jerrod. I'm not sure if I'm excited about these tools now or not. Of course I'm not sure they need hardening. HOWEVER, when I was upsetting the end for my square fuller, I did mushroom the tapered struck end. Hmm... This stock was very easy to forge. Not what I was told to expect. I'm re working the hardy to fix a slight alignment problem so no picture. It will be my only blade-specific tool in this batch! Slot punch, round punch, square fuller, and hot cut chisel are filed and wire brushed. I need to pay attention when I forge. I put an
  14. The sucker rod I used is stamped 40, a Norris product. AISI A-4621-M Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Alloy Steel I didnt find heat treatment info on Heat Treat app from ATS.
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