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Taylor Hendrix

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Everything posted by Taylor Hendrix

  1. A trick some potters use to help mix forced air burners is to place teased out SS wool - the super coarse, scrubby pad kind- in the mixing pipe down stream of the fuel input. Just enough to stick in the pipe and introduce turbulence for mixing, not enough to degrade your turn up. Has anyone tried this on a forced air burner for a forge? Do folks have good results using a release for the straws/crayons rather than resorting to burning or drilling out? What's your plan with the straws, Jaro? I'm going to make a 3x3x6 burner myself, so I'm interested to see how your project turns out.
  2. Thanks for the info. Brian, I hope your new forge is working out. I'll be working on one for myself very soon. I have 1 inch blanket already, but I just returned from finishing up a fiber kiln rebuild for a friend and scored a couple of square feet of 3 inch thick fiber.
  3. Can you really drag metal in and out of a coated fiber forge with no deleterious effects to the lining? I would think a one inch kiln shelf or a IFB split wouldn't add that much thermal mass to make preheat super long. Is that a thing for these types of forges? T
  4. Ah HA! Finally repaired my Harvey-drowned electric kiln. Working kiln means clay sales. Clay sales means money. Money means more blacksmithing stuff! Going to a hammer making workshop this Friday. Tooling up. T
  5. Alex, that's a great present. You must have been a good boy this year. For Christmas, I've given myself a one-day hammer workshop in conjunction with next year's Texas Blacksmith's Conference happening in my county (Fayette). Now, I've not been that good a boy this year, but, hey, I have a little shop money, so....... Looking forward to showing some great work here in the new year.
  6. Might be too late, but for accuracy, you will want to buy thermocouple wire. Thermocouples come in different flavors and so do, I think, the wires. I purchase large high temp TC for sticking into raku kilns and electric kilns and wire set ups with molded plugs are easy to find on the internet. Grainger is one. I use a FLUKE tc set for temp. From what I have been reading, heat treatments are very temperature dependent and require quite a tight tolerance. I'd find TC wire. It is made from the same materials as the bi metallic TC so as not to introduce more thermocoupling at the lead
  7. Found this thread while researching file suggestions. Look what I made in my super-freezing-cold-should-be-heated garage today. I am planning on doing most of my charcoal chopper shaping using files after the hot work. I only have big box store files and not many at that. Next project is a filing jig, but in the mean time I need to expand my file selection. (Look at all those empty spaces!) Is your above quote still a good file lineup for utility blade work, Alan?
  8. I enjoyed seeing the shots of his peened handles. I see on some the peen is flat and others the peen has been with a very very small fuller to give a design element. Was wondering how else it was done back in the day. T
  9. Some really great pieces, everyone. I've enjoyed looking through the WIPs and seeing what each maker focused in on. Hope to make something as nice one day. Enjoy the exchange. T
  10. One of the things I miss about the Texas coast: catching fish. Sigh.
  11. Nice tongs. Looks like your leaf fall rivals your scale fall! I'm going to freeze this winter!
  12. Hardy with fuller shaped, ready for the heat treat. Fits in the 3/4 hardy hole on the baby anvil. Tooling up for finishing my charcoal chopper. Ball punch and slot punch shaped ready for the heat treat. Tooling up for making a bottle opener. Why you ask? Because I deserve a beer. That's why.
  13. Thanks Jerrod. I'm not sure if I'm excited about these tools now or not. Of course I'm not sure they need hardening. HOWEVER, when I was upsetting the end for my square fuller, I did mushroom the tapered struck end. Hmm... This stock was very easy to forge. Not what I was told to expect. I'm re working the hardy to fix a slight alignment problem so no picture. It will be my only blade-specific tool in this batch! Slot punch, round punch, square fuller, and hot cut chisel are filed and wire brushed. I need to pay attention when I forge. I put an
  14. The sucker rod I used is stamped 40, a Norris product. AISI A-4621-M Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Alloy Steel I didnt find heat treatment info on Heat Treat app from ATS.
  15. Yesterday I started work on a series of tools using sucker rod. I cut 5 9" pieces of round and used the knuckle from the end of a sucker rod for my first hardy. Once the threads were ground off the end and I squared up the shank for the hardy hole, I had too much slop for my liking, so I pulled out the stick welder and added beads to the faces and corners. Not the prettiest solution, but hey, it's my first hardy. Here is the knuckle with the shank reforged and ground but before I cut off the excess. I tried leaving the flare and a bit of the round for upsetting and getting a nice wide blade, b
  16. The parts were supplied by Olympic, the manufacturer of the high fire kiln. These are common but require high temp studs which are notched to allow the buttons to be pushed in, then turned a 1/4 turn to hold. Kiln fires to 2350° F. Kaowool probably has some as well. I have been known to make my own and string with high temp wire for low fire kilns. What is the operating temp of forges?
  17. Fingers crossed for a negative test, Alex. Not my shop, but I did spend the last three days in two other people's shops making some money for some steel! Cough, cough: remove the saggy, multiple 1 inch fiber blanket. add the new 2 inch blanket with non-corroding ceramic buttons. gotta have a good, sharp stake-knife to cut kaowool, and potters love their peep holes. Rolled up flashing can cut a pretty clean hole. File that away for when you build your fiber forge. Now I really need to
  18. Newbie did some wood working on this non-forging day: 20+ forging hours on the stock handles was enough. Will try these shapes awhile and see.
  19. I have found the same dearth of information (at least online) as you have, Aiden. I have been researching the nata type knife in preparation for forging a charcoal cutting knife for myself. I assumed the Japanese would have a specific blade for such work, but I can't confirm that and most of what I have found have been from western smiths who studied in Japan. I have not started a library search yet. I'll wait until I'm a bit more comfortable with sniveling crowds. Let us know if you find any useful resources. T
  20. Aw man, I have been burning up free time watching youtube videos one after the other of old Sheffield too makers. All this started when I was sifting through the forums for information on tang forging and came across a link to an Owen Bush video of him making a kitchen knife. He mentioned learning to use a hardy to start the tang isolation from watching an old film of a Sheffield knife maker. I had to go looking for it and wouldn't you know I found so many interesting forging ideas from so many short videos. Loads of great information. I was surprised at th
  21. Jeremy, Are you talking about your charcoal forge or another forge? How big is the current forge? The hood looks great. When you get things moved in, show us the set up. I'd be interested in seeing how it comes together. I have to cover my kiln yard slab and I plan on putting my small charcoal forge under it as well. Might have to vent.
  22. Hey Geoff, I remember back in the 70s seeing a Dutch shoe maker carving out shoes, using a knife as you show and a big spoon-shaped augers. I could have watched him all day, but we had to go see windmills and tulips next. I think the charcoal knife needs good wrist action to work well, BUT I may need a knife like that for processing wood for the charcoal. Hmm...
  23. So I brought home some goodies from the scrap yard yesterday: Standard stuff. Now the rotary blades in the center are not easy to pin down. Anybody recognize the maker? I have been told they may be a boron steel. I'm thinking of making some tooling from them with a bit of stick welding, mild steel, grinding, but I'd like to not be surprised. Any suggestion on where to look would be appreciated, but I realize it's asking a lot. I'll be spark testing next. What do you think of that monster spring? Just over 2" thick round. That is going to be fun
  24. Thanks for all the help everyone. Today I forged for about 2 hours. Would have been longer but I had to replace my blower controller first. Last forging session, I fried the board. Um, take the time to insulate your connections: check. I started with two 1 inch by 3/8 by 6 inch pieces of stock cut from a leaf spring. Today I had several things I wanted to do, so things got a bit hairy there for awhile, but I found a rhythm. On the first piece I tried the cross peen on the anvil face which was okay if a little awkward. I attempted to strike with the peen perpendicular to the length.
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