Jump to content

David Grizzel

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


3 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ok guys I have a major road block to get through .... I have finally been able To get a stainless billet welded up .... and I’m trying to prep for heat treat on one ugly blade... but I cannot get the holes drilled after I forged the billet I left it in the forge to cool over night hopeful that it would help me out ... but it really didn’t .... the holes I could not drill.... it was still pretty hard to profile but I managed to get it done .... I have no heat treating oven ... just my forge.... I have collected a bucket of ashes ... the main question being ....can one of y’all tell me a simple way I can anneal... will the ashes slow the cooling rate enough? It’s 410 stainless with 80crv2 ... is hold time important ? Any advice and help is appreciated . Completely in over my head ... I’ve looked at several YouTube videos and post that I could find.
  2. speaking from a true beginner... the blade with the red micarta handle is the very first "completed" blade I made. It was forged late last spring. The next blade, I just finished last week. Obviously, I have a long long long ways to go. But it is forged from my own 220 layers of damascus. It is the eleventh blade that I have made in almost the year that I have been doing this. I was one of those guys that tinkered on and off with the forging for about 2 years until last year. Y'all will notice that first blade is super super super rough...it is decently sharp....but my biggest struggle is the wonderful belt grinder...as noticed by the paper thin spine.
  3. I am in Southwest Virginia ... I guess that’s a big reason as to why I look up to Jason and Burt ... a class with either of them and I can sleep in my own bed every night .... Jason does have some classes coming up .... but they are at 1800... right now , I don’t think that much is in my financials... Lowe’s ain’t paying that much .... lol
  4. Let me know how that class goes .... you’re right it’s an investment for sure ..... there’s a lot of Good smiths out there .... I’ve heard of that guy but don’t really know anything else other than his name and then being in the middle of this rolling pandemic that seems to be just now hitting my area hard doesn’t help anything
  5. You are not the first person to tell me that! I guess I can relate it to my baseball life ... at some point I needed to become a pitcher and not just a thrower .... I figured this is the same concept .... especially with edge geometries amd stuff ... I’ve learned one of the blades I made had the complete wrong edge geometry ... all kinds of stuff ..... but it’s pretty cool I guess to look at where I came from and the mistakes I made and stuff to where I’m slowly getting now... Jason’s class schedule came out not too long ago but it’s about 500 more than I thought it would be ... so now it’s the decision between if I want more tools and equipment or guidance lol ... tough life
  6. I know about as much as I can at this point .... I’m a long ways from where I’d like to be .... only going to get better by doing ..... this was the first time I’ve ever used 5160 .... guess I’ll do a rough finish with this blade and test it out and see what happens .... honestly I feel like I know about as much as I can on my own ..... I think I’m to the level where I’ll be going to take a class or something this year
  7. I’ve actually never thought about holding the blade inside the bucket ..... I’ve actually just got shop fully enclosed to so hopefully that’ll help and I can see more .... bucket though ... that’s pretty genius honestly. Everything I’ve learned honestly is just coming from burt fosters videos off his website (although I haven’t bought the heat treating one yet, probably should) and Jason knights stuff .... I haven’t got a chance to go to a hammer in or anything yet Bc of this pandemic ... heck 5 months ago I really couldn’t even forge a blade to profile ..relied heavily on grinding shape .. live and learn by failures .... and advice I guess ... I screenshotted this from my video ... I’m assuming it was too hot like y’all are telling me ... but I swear it didn’t look that hot ... video can’t deny it though
  8. So I’m going to go with a much higher heat than I needed ... especially after seeing a yellow type of heat from the video .... as for the crack idk ... above my pay grade ... might of hit it in too low of heat on some planishing blows ..... live and learn I guess
  9. That black line you are referring to... I actually saw that .... could I have got that from trying to straighten it too much right after the quench?
  10. Yes I normalized it .... but honestly the blade was a lot bigger than what I am used to.... I have a 2 burner forge right now that I made ..... and I usually stick a pipe in the forge to make something like an oven ..... works great with my 8-10 chefs .... this blade was like 15-16 inches and I struggled with it so I took the pipe out .... from looking at my video I think I might have been a little hotter than I like ..... to my eyes it looked right ... but the video does show it to be hotter than I would like ..... I’ve tempered the actual blade a total of 4 hours at 425 ..... 2 2 hour cycles ..... I struggled with this blade honestly... easy to forge but getting a good heat treat .... no where near as confident .... hard to believe a little bit bigger is a lot harder .... no it’s actual 5160 from jantz supply .... I’m honestly not a fan of scrap steels ... when I first started I was .... and I have a lot of junk steel here around the farm ... but I just don’t use it. I normalized three times ..... I’m thinking I didn’t normalize it as good as I thought though.
  11. Hey Guys First post here I have been bladesmithing for quite a while now probably about 3 years off and on... but ever since this pandemic I decided to hit it hard. anywho I am about 20-30 blades into this now and I finally cracked my first blade. I was making what would be something machete like .... largest blade I have ever attempted. I used 5160 quenched in AAA... but I am heat treating out of my forge ... I have no oven. But I was wanting to know how much could actually be told by the grain structure. After I quenched it ... i noticed the tip had a warp so , I tried to straighten and ultimately this is why i think it cracked .... seems to be right where I was trying to straighten it during the "window" after the quench is where the crack was...noticed the crack one 2 hour temper cycle later at 425 degrees. Probably got outside that window of opportunity and working it fragile? I don't know really just a guess... with it being the first blade I have broke... I am actually not mad.... but I find it as an opportunity to learn ... learn about the heat treat... I feel like quenching from the forge everything is a solid educated guess... I actually have a video of this heat treat on the blade.. but I guess what I am asking is can anyone tell me much on my heat treat by this grain structure... grains look fine grain to me ,,, but then again I honestly dont know anything other than what I have read.... I literally just snapped it off the blade after the first cycle and through the blade back in.... hoping I can re-profile that tip and finish the blade and test it out. Can anyone with more knowledge of this tell me about my heat treat through this pic... Tried to get the best pic that I could with this Iphone.. not the best... sorry in advance.
  • Create New...