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Ronnie D

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Posts posted by Ronnie D

  1. 1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

    If your tube has one end closed, a piece of wood, coal, coke, or charcoal pushed to the far end will consume all the oxygen in the tube.  What this means for your steel is there will be no scale formation, no decarb, and an easy cleanup after hardening.  

    Same thing if your forge is running in reduction, that means all available oxygen is consumed.  If you do that with a gas forge, though, be aware you'll be pumping out huge amounts of carbon monoxide and ventilate accordingly.

    Thank you sir. Just got done welding a tube up. I ended up putting a piece of plate with a hole for my tube across the front. But thinking about it it will probably get really hot so I may need to cut that part off.

  2. 19 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    The baffle tube is to even out the heat.  A closed one is great if you can't regulate your forge atmosphere to reducing, since you can toss a chunk of wood in there and have reduction for hours.  If you can tune the forge to reduction, you don't need a solid tube.

    Ok I have read in a few places now about either wood or coal in the forge/baffle tube. Could you explain to me what this does?

  3. 23 hours ago, Joshua States said:

    I beg to differ. You can use the same forge to do general forging as you use to bring a blade up to quench temp. I used the NC Tools Whisper Daddy for a few years with great success before I purchased my Paragon oven. You just have to learn to vary the propane pressure appropriately for the task at hand and use a baffle tube.
    Now if you want a welding forge, that's a whole different animal.

    Not sure what a whisper daddy is and honestly a little scared to Google it lol 

    16 hours ago, Joshua States said:

    Here is the tube I used. It's 3x3 and I drilled two 1/4" holes through one side and fit two pieces of round rod into them, then welded them in place. This allowed me to put the blade in the tube, spine down, and have it stay that way.


    Heat tube.JPG


    It fit right in the front door and the back door closed it off.


    Heat tube (2).JPG

    This is kind of what I'm thinking

  4. 8 minutes ago, Ronnie D said:

    I'll try to find it

    Ok I found it! Question for you.  I thought the baffle tube was to keep the direct flame off the item. Yours has a ton of holes in it. Also I like the idea of isolating the flame with it.

  5. 17 hours ago, John N said:

    Don't try and make a forging forge a heat treatment forge. They are different animals. 


    You will end up with the worst of both worlds. I posted a thread on here about my little heat treat for the 'the jizer' which shows how little you need for a super accurate heat treatment forge. I can hold a couple of degrees with it. I recall the post I made about the forge was made a 'sticky' in one of the forums on here. Not got time to locate the post now, but will dig it out tomorrow for you.

    I'll try to find it

  6. Hello all,


    I have been making knives for 1.5 yrs and been wanting to step up my game with the heat treat process. I have a home built forge(from a air tank) with 2" kaowool, ridgedizer and refractory cement with 2 "frosty" T burners, a 20psi regulator and it's been fine up to now. I want to make some modification and would like some thought/ideas on my set up. 

    Some of the things I want to do is the following:


    Take my horizontal set up and mount it vertically(I saw someone heat treat like this and liked the idea) the inside of my forge is round and not flat, I believe this would help with my other idea to hang a "baffle" pipe dead center of my forge.

    Also I ordered a thermometer with a K coupling that I want to somehow insert into the baffle pipe to get a accurate reading. No idea how to do this as of yet. Not sure what the probes will look like and if any or all will melt lol. I will attach some pictures although they are a little old. Anyone can offer me some thoughts?




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