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Larry Pyne

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Everything posted by Larry Pyne

  1. Learned that one the hard way... Also learned to use an apron... after I caught my hoodie on fire from an angle grinder...
  2. Hey everyone! I decided to make my first attempt at a forge weld today. I don't have a welder to tack it all together so I used some wire. Someone on here was talking about wire, but I can't remember who to thank for the tip. I used a 1095 core with Home Depot mystery steel around it. I fluxed it twice before the first hits. I did 2 passes with light hits then 2 with medium/heavy hits before I had the nerve to hit the spine. I fluxed between each heat. I think it worked but I'm not 100% sure so I was hoping for some feedback. I want to grind the billet a little more if it looks good t
  3. Welcome aboard Matt! Your first blades look better than mine for sure!
  4. Awesome work! I'll bet it would be a blast to swing!
  5. Alright guys, I'm calling this one D.U.N. dun! I cut the back off these pins and used a dremel to get them completely flat. Then I traced the pins on the scales with a sharpie and cut the holes with a cheap-o dremel due to its very low speed. I set the pins with epoxy then covered them with the epoxy to fill the space above them. I quickly hit the epoxy with fast passes of a propane torch to pull any bubbles out. After it set for 24 hours I started the sanding which took forever haha. The sheath is leather and the designs are burnt in with a wood burner. All in all, I like it and my bud
  6. I got the micarta and scales on yesterday and started the rough grind on the scales tonight. Im not going to go any further until I get the pins and embed them in the scales. I don't think I'll get the pins until next Tuesday so I guess it's time to start on the sheath. I suck at leatherwork and making sheaths is the bane of my existence haha!
  7. Thanks Clint! This is the 2nd knife I've made with this 3M Fire Block. It comes in a tube like caulk. Next time I will probably put it on some cardboard and try to paint it on instead of going straight to the blade from the tube.
  8. Wow! The knife is beautiful and the leatherwork is on another level. I really like this piece!
  9. Thanks to you guys! I really appreciate the pointers you guys have given me!
  10. Hey everyone. I hope you guys are doing ok! This is a WIP for a biker buddy of mine. The blade is 1095, false edge across the top with a top and bottom hamon. I used 3M fire block cement to get the hamon. The blade was normalized 3 times, quenched in Parks 50 and tempered at 400F for 2 hours. This the first time I've had the hamon take all the way into the spine. I used 10/1 distilled water to ferric chloride for 9 minutes to bring the hamon out. Next on the to do list is to get the scales on. The biker buddy is giving me a pair of lapel pins for me to embed in the scales.
  11. Hey everyone. Here are my latest 2 knives. I'm still working on my hamons but I think I'm making progress. I finally bought some Parks 50 and some ferric chloride. The knife with the burning on the sheath was quenched in motor oil and the other in Parks 50. The difference is crazy. I also learned to try to mirror your clay on both sides of the blade. I made a paper stencil of the line then traced it on the blade with a sharpie before I put the clay down. As you can see on the burned sheath, I am a fan of the band Tool and burnt in the all seeing eye and their 7 pointed star. I also hi
  12. This blade is beautiful! Outstanding job!
  13. Thanks everyone! Alan - The frog spots were just slightly raised, enough to catch your fingernail on. You're also right about me trying to dial in the HT. I'm a knucklehead and quenched this in the middle of the day with the door open. I usually close the door and turn the lights off to watch the color but I didn't this time. Won't do that again. Brian - This leather I bought is darker than the veg tan I see a lot of other people using. Oddly enough, I just ordered leather from a different brand to see how the new one works out. This leather is a bit soft and I'm
  14. Great looking blade! The handle is awesome!
  15. Hello everyone. As the title says, I forged this blade from an 01 Explorer leaf spring. I bought a bag of vermiculite to allow the blade to slow cool so I could drill the tang. This is the first time I've done this and honestly I was surprised how soft the steel was after I let it sit for 20 hours. It was normalized 3 times, quenched in oil and tempered for 2 hours at 380F. The handle is made of black/silver epoxy scales that my wife ordered online from somewhere and the slats in the handles are a sandwich of 20mm, 30mm, 20mm shells. The blade is patina'd black. I used a wood burner to
  16. Hey everyone. Ive had an old fireman's axe for a while and finally got around to working on it. I decided to try to make it viking ish. I cut the old handle off and did a small amount of forge work to thin out the head a bit. I finished the shaping with a lot of file work and grinder time. The head was quenched in oil. I bought and chopped up a new handle from Lowes. Im pretty sure it's hickory. I have a new wood burner so decided to get fancy. I looked up viking runes and burned in "Bloodfury" on one side and "Slayer of Mortals" on the other. I also burned in a sea serpent on the sh
  17. Hello everyone! Sorry I didn't take pictures throughout this, I expected to mess it up. This little guy was forged from a leaf spring. This is my first hidden tang without pins. I used an angle grinder to cut some slices out of the tang to help hold the epoxy. The handle is maple. I left some forge marks across the spine. I think it turned ok for a first attempt at something like this. Critiques and pointers are welcome. Happy New Year everyone!
  18. Its some black patina I bought from Amazon a while back. It mixes 9 to 1 with water and starts working immediately. I let blades sit for 5 minutes. I taped this knife and cut out the design before the patina.
  19. I let the dabbed mustard sit for @50 minutes. It wasn't too dark so I sanded it off and did the black patina. I taped the blade and just used an exacto knife to cut the design. I'm not a huge fan of the final product but I'm done fighting with this knife and I'm moving on. I don't think that I will try partial patinas again.
  20. Thanks guys! The last picture is as it sits right now. I'm done messing with it and I'm moving on to the next knife.
  21. I've been fighting with this knife for several days. As the title says, this is my first attempt at a chef knife with a hidden tang. The boster is the back end of a 20mm round. The handle is a piece of maple a friend gave me. I burnt it with a torch and finished it with some linseed oil. I tried to be fancy and tape off the edge and patina the spine black. I tried the mustard hamon first but it was very light. I think I need to leave it longer than an hour or try a lighter coat. I didnt like it so I sanded it off. I will try it again later. All in all I think it turned out OK. I'll
  22. Hello everyone! I'm working on a blade that I plan on keeping for myself, first one haha. I would like to practice my hamons but I also think this blade will look good with a black patina'd blade. I have really cool metallic black scales to use one it. I was wondering if anyone has tried patina and hamon? I'm thinking that if I try to acid the blade to pop the hamon after the patina is applied it may pull off the patina. So maybe if I acid the blade to pop the hamon, I can add the patina after and maybe get a black blade with a visible hamon line. I didn't know if
  23. Wow! I love this blade! Looks amazing. Great work!
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