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Larry Pyne

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Everything posted by Larry Pyne

  1. Its some black patina I bought from Amazon a while back. It mixes 9 to 1 with water and starts working immediately. I let blades sit for 5 minutes. I taped this knife and cut out the design before the patina.
  2. I let the dabbed mustard sit for @50 minutes. It wasn't too dark so I sanded it off and did the black patina. I taped the blade and just used an exacto knife to cut the design. I'm not a huge fan of the final product but I'm done fighting with this knife and I'm moving on. I don't think that I will try partial patinas again.
  3. Thanks guys! The last picture is as it sits right now. I'm done messing with it and I'm moving on to the next knife.
  4. I've been fighting with this knife for several days. As the title says, this is my first attempt at a chef knife with a hidden tang. The boster is the back end of a 20mm round. The handle is a piece of maple a friend gave me. I burnt it with a torch and finished it with some linseed oil. I tried to be fancy and tape off the edge and patina the spine black. I tried the mustard hamon first but it was very light. I think I need to leave it longer than an hour or try a lighter coat. I didnt like it so I sanded it off. I will try it again later. All in all I think it turned out OK. I'll
  5. Hello everyone! I'm working on a blade that I plan on keeping for myself, first one haha. I would like to practice my hamons but I also think this blade will look good with a black patina'd blade. I have really cool metallic black scales to use one it. I was wondering if anyone has tried patina and hamon? I'm thinking that if I try to acid the blade to pop the hamon after the patina is applied it may pull off the patina. So maybe if I acid the blade to pop the hamon, I can add the patina after and maybe get a black blade with a visible hamon line. I didn't know if
  6. Wow! I love this blade! Looks amazing. Great work!
  7. I don't know if it should point either way. This knife is beautiful! Keep making them however you see fit because you sir, are nailing it!
  8. I love this knife! Great job man. Personally, I like the rabbit.
  9. I'm a big dummy and didn't consider that this steel is designed to cool very fast and that its re-hardening itself. I don't have vermiculite but I'll try to buy some before I go back to this project. Thanks again guys! I feel way more optimistic about this working in round 2 of me vs gun barrel steel.
  10. I tried to research the steel before and all I could find was a couple of sites but the gist of it is... "SAE 4140 (AISI 4140 steel) is a Cr-Mo series (Chrome molybdenum series) low alloy steel, this material has high strength and hardenability, good toughness, small deformation during quenching, high creep strength and long-lasting strength at high temperature." I couldn't find a for sure answer specific to the M61A1 Vulcan, which this barrel came from but one site referenced "ordnance steel" used on artillery pieces. I'd bet it's the same steel, which is the AISI 414
  11. As soon as posted that I had an idea. What do you guys think about me trying to drift holes after the blade is forged then trying to finish opening them to the size of the pins? Maybe that's the way? I'm telling you guys, this steel is no joke! It is tough!
  12. Hello everyone, I have a 20mm gun barrel from an F-15E and I have tried to forge a blade from it in the past and failed. I plan on re-visiting this soon. Aside from this steel being incredibly hard to hammer, I can't drill holes in the tang. On the previous attempt, I destroyed a ton of bits and never even got 1 single hole. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I've tried titanium bits, cobalt bits, cutting fluid, low and high speed on the press and even attempted to drill a small hole to step up to the size of a pin... I have no idea where I'm going wrong and have never h
  13. I don't have a 2x72 yet so this may not apply but on my little 1x30 I was using the small wheel at the top to grind directly on. It has a rubber coating like your wheel and I think that the heat from the blade during the grind damaged the wheel. I don't know if you have ground directly on those wheels but if you have then maybe that's what happened? If not then I have no idea other than the belts may have more tension on one side than the other but I think that may be unlikely since there are 5 wheels on your sander and I'm sure you would see one side flopping around versus the other.
  14. Finally finished the sheath for this. I still have a long way to go with leatherworking.
  15. I've never used butane torches before so I don't know anything about them. The propane one that I used took a long time to heat up and the wait times between the steel being hot enough to hit were much longer than your traditional propane forges. It works but it does take a while to get to temperature. Heres a picture of the burner and bottle that I used in my first coffee can forge.
  16. I made my first two forges from coffee cans. I just drilled 4x holes in the bottom to put in bolts to use as legs to secure it. I used fire wool to line the inside with a small cutout for the tip of the burner to pop through. I used a basic propane burner along with those small green propane tanks you can get in two packs at Wal-Mart. The propane burner and bottle were strategically placed to act as a 5th arm to add extra stability to the forge. I also put a cheap fire brick on the bottom. It works but it is very inefficient for making knives but it will probably work just fine for small
  17. Just finished the handles. Just some epoxy ones my wife bought online. I sanded the blade again and used more lemon just to bring out the hamon. Hopefully I can get the sheath done this weekend.
  18. Welcome aboard Peter! I'm pretty new to bladesmithing too. The community here is awesome! I post up the stuff that I make and everyone has had great tips and tricks for everything that I have done so far. This may sound crazy but when I very first started, I went to a pick-and-pull junkyard and snagged a sway arm, basic round stock, from some rear end from an old truck for @$10. I cut off pieces and just started forging and hammering. I just kept trying new things but so far as the forging and shaping goes, I just let the steel turn into whatever it wanted and just started learning the b
  19. Wow! I 100% agree with Alan, you sir, are a wizard! Thanks for the insight and I completely understand what you're saying. Your work is amazing!
  20. It looks awesome! I can't wait to see it when its finished!
  21. I really do appreciate all the help guys. I will use the tips you guys have given me on my next hamon for sure!
  22. Thanks! I'm excited to finish it. Also, thanks for the tips with the clay and water quenching. This refractory cement I have swells during the heat up. I was trying to get a more interesting line but as soon as the fire hit the cement it swelled up and filled the gaps I made. The second blade was quenched in oil. I didnt want to risk blowing up another blade and I'm more comfortable with oil. I will try water again but I needed a win before I risk breaking another blade lol! Thanks again for the tips. I appreciate it!
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