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Michael Tablas

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  1. I think i windowed sheath would be a nice way to show that piece off.
  2. The d-bracket is aluminum and platen bracket is steel. I’ve added a cera-glass platen. The e assembly came from origin knife. I can’t seem to get past a medium red glow on metal(no pics) Here’s the burners.
  3. Unrelated...I do some fab work in my shop so built this too.
  4. I finally got my forge finished. Interior dimensions are about 6.5" across, 6" high, flat bottom. The volume is about 730 cubic inches. I’ve got three 3/4” venturi burners on it. It’s got cast-o-lite walls and floor coated with plistix. I ended up with 4 inches of insulation to get the volume down. It’s got a steel door on back side I come open or close for longer pieces. The front opening is about 3”x4”. The problem is it doesn’t seem to want to get hot enough. I’ve tried 6-7psi propane. I’m trying to figure out what’s wrong. Is it possible the door opening is too small causing too much back
  5. Thanks for the advice. So can I put cast-o-lite directly over the simond’s, chip it out and recoat, or just wait?
  6. Simond’s 2700* refractory cement. It mostly looks like the moisture was trapped in the creases of insulation from wrapping inside drum walls.
  7. I have built a three burner forge from a 30 gallon drum. Three inches of ceramic insulation with rigidizer. I coated the insulation with a layer of cement and let dry two days with some heat added from a forced air kerosene heater. I did the same with a second coat of cement. I kept heat blowing in for several hours on and off. The walls felt hard and dry. I fired up the burners for a couple minutes and now the walls look like they grew warts. I’m sure from trapped moisture. I am planning to coat last with Plistix. My question is do I try to smooth off some of the “warts” and recoat with ceme
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