Jump to content

Thomas Bevelander

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Thomas Bevelander


    For those who are interested:

    I realised I never shared the end result in this topic. So here it is. not the best photo but you can see some activity on the blade. A couple of days ago I visited my friend for who the knife was made and the little activity that was on the knife disappeared completely, haha.


    I recently finished another knife in 1075 and wanted to give it another shot. I used ferric chloride this time. Sanded the knife to a 3000grit finish. Then dipped it in the ferric and cleaned it with 3000 grit sandpaper and fine steel wool. Repeated that proces a couple of times. I gave it a final polish with some mothers mag. This definitely gave me better results. This knife is for my own use so I'm quite curious how the activity will develop over time or if everything will disappear again ;)


    10_01.png    15-story01.png

    • Like 2
  2. Allright thanks for the additional feedback everyone. Maybe my expectations of the hamon were a bit too high. Im going to finish this one as it is and give it to the friend for who I'm making it. I'm curious to see how the patina wil develop over time. If I get some good pictures of it in the future I'll share it in this thread. 

  3. 7 hours ago, jake cleland said:

    It would be useful to see an unedited pic to see what you have, but there is nothing inherently wrong with this in a hamon - basically the part that doesn't darken wasn't brought up to critical (it is basically a form of utsuri), which shows good temp control. There maybe activities in the actual hamon which could be brought out, but this steel is finnicky and needs a lot of normalization to show much of anything...


    That said, you would probably have better luck with ferric or even nitol...


    Here some additional photos of the polished blade were you can see the area of the hamon a bit:



    Can it still be an option to soak it in vinegar for example (for a couple of hours?) to get i really dark? And then try to polish it to a nice result with mothers mag? Or will this be a process with a lot of room for error and/or an ugly looking hamon at the end? If anyone still has a good option that I can try I'm more then willing to give it one more go!


  4. @Alan: I have overlooked your first response, but thank you for the information. I have been trying to polish the blade with mothers mag but it just didn't came out the way I wanted. And I was already considering to finish this blade without darkening/polishing the hamon and keep that on the to-do list for a later attempt.


    And thanks to all others who responded as well!  If anyone still wants to add something to this thread, please do. I'm really appreciating this feedback.

  5. 21 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said:

    The previous responses are from folks who know more about creating hamons than I do, so I won't pretend to have better input.


    One thing that I think you may be asking about that they didn't cover is why is your hard steel turning black as opposed the soft steel.  I actually can't answer that precisely.  I believe different etchants have different effects.  Also, etching a hamon will results in a different look than one that is traditionally polished.


    I'm mostly posting to prompt someone else to answer the question that I think you asked :)



    Indeed! What I've read is that the soft steel should darken with lemon and the hard with vinegar (usually). But all the different acids and methods have the same effect.



  6. Hi all,


    I've read quite a few threads about hamons in this forum but I wonder if anyone knows what's going on with my blade.


    I heat treated the blade with satanite and eventually sanded it to a 1200grit finish. At this point I can clearly see a light line were the hamon is. But when I try to darken the blade with vinegar and/or lemonjuice it has the same result every time:




    I used different types of vinegar and lemon juice (fresh and bottled), and applied it with different temperatures (lukewarm to near boiling point). I had a lot of tries by now but every attempt (and thus every type of acid) had exactly the same effect: The hardened steel starts to darken first. Then after a while the 'left' part of the softer steel starts to darken. The 'right' part doesn't change at all. (There is a small gradient between the red and green area. not a hard line as shown in the picture). So unfortunately etching with these acids doesn't give me a nice result to bring out the hamon.


    I have also read that steel with more than 0.5 manganese is not suitable for hamons. This steel has 0.65 (see below for composition)
    Carbon: 0.75%
    Chromium: 0.14%
    Manganese: 0.65%
    Silicon 0.2%
    (ordered at: https://www.eurotechni.com/en/dnh7-xc75-1075-1-1248.ht)


    At this point I have 2 questions:
    1. Can someone explain me what is going on with the steel and why it is darkening in this way? Especially the difference in the darkening of the soft steel.
    2. Is etching in ferric chloride an option or is it impossible to bring out the hamon in this blade and should I go for another type of steel?



    I'm a beginning knifemaker and this is my first post to this forum but I hope some of you people can share their knowledge with me. It would be great if I can still manage to get a nice hamon. And if not I really would like to know what I'm doing wrong so that I can gain new knowledge about this craft. Thanks in advance!







  • Create New...