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Shane Atwood

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Posts posted by Shane Atwood

  1. Hey there,

    How good does a twist pattern look with a ladder pattern pressed into it? I'm sure it has been done but I can't recall ever seeing it. I guess is what I am planning on doing is making a composite bar of crushed W's with a cutting edge of twist. I have not done anything to my W's bar to bring the pattern to the surface yet. My W's bar is 1/2" thick and my twist bar is 1/2" square. I am thinking I will forge weld them together now, then press a ladder pattern into the entire billet which will ladder pattern the W's and the twist. What do you think? Will it look decent?? Thanks for the suggestions!

  2. On 1/21/2022 at 9:03 AM, Paul Checa said:

    Wow looks amazing! But now... I have a question. It seems you have some copper at the hilt on the edge. Is there any way for that not to happen? 

    That is a horrible picture. The copper doesn't come all the way down to the edge. It is slightly above the cutting edge. 

    The thickness of your core material and how deep you grind into your blade can definitely determine how far up your copper is on the blade. How thick of copper you use can determine how thick the copper line across your blade is. This blade I used 5/32" 1084 core and about .055 thick copper. My outside layers are Damascus that started out as 3/16" thick material. If I remember correctly my billet started out 2" wide and 7.5" long. Then with forging out the billet my core was thinned down. Also I probably got this billet to hot and melted some of the copper which is why there are thicker and thinner sections of copper, which sometimes makes a cool affect. I will try and get a better pic now that I have this blade hand sanded.

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  3. I have forged a couple cumai blades. Be super careful with temperature. Copper melts at 1984 deg.F I have melted the copper out of a blade or 2. Stack your billet up, outer layers, copper, then core and weld all the way around to seal it up. If you do over heat it the weld will help hold the molten copper in. My only concern with putting nickel on the outside is it is soft and scratches kinda easy. Maybe 15n20 and polish it after etch might work. Here is one I'm working on now. It was a Damascus jacket, copper, and 1084 core.

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  4. 6 hours ago, Dave Stephens said:

    Good looking W's. 

     

    As Brian pointed out (and I'm sure you already know this) the end grain is the interesting bit, so the question is how will you get those W's on the surface of the blade and not just a tiny little mosaic at the end of the tang?

     

    If you don't want to to the mosaic route, twisting is a good choice. Twist up two bars of this in opposite directions and use them as the center bars for a sword or dagger. It'll produce a nice explosion pattern like this (if you grind into it)

     

     

     

     

    Wow! That looks super cool! Will definitely have to give that a shot! 

  5. Hey, not sure where to go with my W's billet from here. I started this with only 13 layers. I doubled up on the 15n20 so it will be a brighter PWS. I did the tradition way for W's by forging out the billet, squaring it, then flattening out on the bias. I cut it into thirds, restacked, forge welded and drew that out. Right now it is at .480 thick 1.5 wide and I will have about 10" of useable steel. I cut off the end for a test etch and so far I really like the pattern. It may be tighter away from the end. Just not sure where to go from here. It is probably to thin to accordion cut, what about a ladder W, or I have heard of some people forging it square, cutting, and 4way. I am thinking the best bet is to maybe cut in half forge weld, leaving thicker and accordion cut. What is the thickness I need for accordion cut? Any suggestions would be great! Thanks

    (Don't look at my messy work bench!)

     

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  6. On 9/10/2021 at 3:38 PM, Alan Longmire said:

     

    That is thanks to my fellow smith Matt Walker's raindrop dies. He laid out and drilled the dies, which make it totally repeatable.

    Works the opposite of normal raindrop in that the press raises bumps which you then grind off, rather than you drilling holes and forging flat. 

    Since I don't have a press and he does, when I need to do something like that I go bug him.  It helps that he's a mechanical whiz.

    That blade was welded up and forged to rough size and shape as a straight laminate billet about 7/16" thick, then pressed in the raindrop dies so that the thin part was a fat 1/4".  Grind off the bumps, forge to final shape, and there you go.  That's why you see the straight laminate at the edge.

    Alan, that is super cool! Nice looking blade! I might have to make a set of dies like this for my press. Do you know about how deep the holes are drilled in the dies?

  7. 45 minutes ago, Paul Carter said:

    First off I am no expert on SS. I'm have been messing with SS Damascus myself and can tell you what I have learned so far.

     

    I weld all the way around with a tig welder by fusion welding. This way I don't introduce any other metals to the mix.

    SS needs a lot of heat. I had my forge up to 2150°, but I think I really need to be around 2200. It will definitely need a lot more heat than regular carbon steel.

    Thanks for the help! I have seen some SS rod for arc welders and I wondered if that would work. I am in the market for a new welder and thought of splurging on a combo that does arc/mig/tig.

    I hope my forge will get that hot! Ha

  8. Hello, I hope I am posting this in the correct place. I am wanting to try some san mai with 416 stainless on the outside and high carbon in the center. I seen a great wip post on here from about 5 years where someone was doing something similar, and now I cannot find the post again.

    Anyway from what I have seen others do is put the stack together and weld all the way around the bullet to keep air out so the stainless won't decarb so bad on the inside.

    1st question is what type of weld/welder needs to be done around the edge? I have a arc welder but not 100% sure that with 6010rod will work on the stainless. I don't actually have the 416 here now or I would just try. 

    2nd what forge temps are needed for this type of san mai. I have done wrought iron and high carbon before pretty easily. Is it about the same temps or do I need higher temps. 

    I'm sure these may be silly questions but there ya go. 

    Thanks for any help on my first attempt at this!

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