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Sean Blum

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About Sean Blum

  • Birthday 12/10/1994

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  • Location
    Chicago IL
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Cooking, and keeping my workspace in one piece.

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  1. Another thing to look at is do you want to deal with air cylinders or not. Stick and flux core MIG would allow you to not worry about gas. Like BillyO said TIG is best for welding up billets for forge welding as it doesnt need to add filler metal like the others do. Downside is it has a very high learning curve and some extra consumables that are a bit pricier to make mistakes with. For just welding on handles any of them work with stick and MIG being the easiest and most efficient IMO. If you could only get one machine and you have the electrical capacity
  2. If you don't want to go the leather route which in my opinion is safer vs fabrics then you'll want to look for gloves made of a stronger fabric. Cotton is not prized for its strength and resiliency usually its more used for comfort. If you want to go through less gloves try using linen or wool as they tend to be stronger than cotton and common enough to be about the same price. The thickness of the gloves and the threadcount will have an effect on durability so thicker is better until it gets in the way of feel and control. Unfortunately as others have pointed out there is a reason
  3. Here is a SDS for the K type bricks they all have similar hazards just slightly different compositions. http://sdccd-keenan.safecollegessds.com/document/repo/4e1ca8a9-c7dc-4594-b26a-115d3e419004
  4. So the last forge I built I lined the bottom half with Mizzou and the top half with Kast-o-lite 30 mainly because I ran out of Mizzou. I didn't try to play it risky so I just spread it over the bottom half by hand waited a day to dry then flipped it over to repeat. I think with Mizzou if you try to go vertical with it you will need a form as it didn't seem to want to hold itself up. This is my one experience with it doing a fairly similar forge to your current one so that is my 2 cents.
  5. So my take on the topic is that this is one of those situations where defensive shouldn't be thought of as a shield but more like the best defense is a good offense. The purpose of a fighting knife is very simple to disable your opponent either by killing, injuring, or removing the will to fight. What a fighting knife is for for the common person is more of a psychological aspect of a leveling the playing field/ giving an advantage in a confrontation. Now I believe carrying a knife as a defensive weapon for the common person requires some knowledge and training just as much as a firearm does.
  6. I would say then use worn belts until you get to finishing belts so you are not striping the material as quickly but you will have to worry more about burning the wood as there is more friction. Otherwise its being very careful and gentle and planning out every hand movement. Hopefully someone else will come along and give better advice as I can only speak from experience on handles. I have very little woodworking experience overall and that stuff can come in handy for solving these kinds of issues.
  7. Does your 2x72 have any kind of variable speed? I use my 2x72 but have it usually at most 50% speed for hogging material and tend to use worn belts until I reach 120 grit then use wood only belts that never touch metal. Im sure there are better methods but I use what I have and if needed go low and slow.
  8. I'm not sure about textbooks but dealing with medical and research journals who behave just as sleazy as the textbooks. Those if you are nice about it you can send a email to the author and they might sell it to you super cheap or free. This is not every author but a lot just want their info out there and they usually make essentially zero money off their published work. Copyright can be weird in that the publisher holds the copyright by permission of the original creator. It really depends on the contract that was signed for publication vs what is allowed by default by the laws. I know for so
  9. To start off with Im no expert either so I'm sure the more experience will show up and correct me later. Generally what you are looking for in the grain structure when you do these break tests is how fine the grain is, how consistent it is, and really if anything jumps out like the outer layer is a different colour from the inner layer. You can get more detailed and accurate info from the grain structure with a microscope so there is a diminishing return on using your eye. Unless you got super vision or are really good at seeing the subtle differences once it gets to a certain lev
  10. I know its a bit late and those are some good looking knives for the family but wanted to jump in and give you my professional opinion as a chef on your earlier questions. So for your question quoted here about the bolster or ricassio extending to the cutting edge you will get different opinions from different users hence why they are fairly commonly sold. In my opinion and the opinion of some of the people I've worked with it is annoying and problematic in use and we would actively avoid using them if given the option. As as stated above it interferes in sharpening and that is an
  11. So after doing some space projects today ended up being a grinding day so I didn't have to travel in a snowstorm. I was able to set the bevel on this knife and will just need to even out the transition line and make it look pretty until the materials I ordered for the handle arrive. I also pulled a do it later project out that I don't think I've touched in almost two years and did some grinding on it to start its bevels. Though its awkward shape and weight are making it a learning experience.
  12. Tool list at what level stock removal or forging? If you are grinding your knife to shape your tool list will be a lot smaller and cheaper than if you are forging the blade then finish grinding it.
  13. Yeah I thought of that right after I posted my response so I'll probably give it a try. I'll leave the question open though in case it doesn't work so if I need to do the original plan I wont need to repost.
  14. I dont know how well it will work on knife handles but a longevity method if you don't want to oil the handle every week or month which depends on usage the more you use it and clean it the more often it will need to be oiled is a oil and bees wax mixture. I cant remember the ratio off the top of my head but if you have display knives or knives you rarely use so periodically oiling them would easily be forgotten it will slow down the oil leeching back out and can last much longer than just oiling. I believe this method is good for passive use as active use will either wear off the wax layer wi
  15. It sounds like it would work but I would worry about thermal expansion of the SS. If it expands more than the refractory does wouldn't it just tear it apart? Or if the castable expands more than the SS it just gets forced out by pressure or falls out?
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