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Sean Blum

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About Sean Blum

  • Birthday 12/10/1994

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  • Location
    Chicago IL
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Cooking, and keeping my workspace in one piece.

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  1. So the last forge I built I lined the bottom half with Mizzou and the top half with Kast-o-lite 30 mainly because I ran out of Mizzou. I didn't try to play it risky so I just spread it over the bottom half by hand waited a day to dry then flipped it over to repeat. I think with Mizzou if you try to go vertical with it you will need a form as it didn't seem to want to hold itself up. This is my one experience with it doing a fairly similar forge to your current one so that is my 2 cents.
  2. So my take on the topic is that this is one of those situations where defensive shouldn't be thought of as a shield but more like the best defense is a good offense. The purpose of a fighting knife is very simple to disable your opponent either by killing, injuring, or removing the will to fight. What a fighting knife is for for the common person is more of a psychological aspect of a leveling the playing field/ giving an advantage in a confrontation. Now I believe carrying a knife as a defensive weapon for the common person requires some knowledge and training just as much as a firearm does.
  3. I would say then use worn belts until you get to finishing belts so you are not striping the material as quickly but you will have to worry more about burning the wood as there is more friction. Otherwise its being very careful and gentle and planning out every hand movement. Hopefully someone else will come along and give better advice as I can only speak from experience on handles. I have very little woodworking experience overall and that stuff can come in handy for solving these kinds of issues.
  4. Does your 2x72 have any kind of variable speed? I use my 2x72 but have it usually at most 50% speed for hogging material and tend to use worn belts until I reach 120 grit then use wood only belts that never touch metal. Im sure there are better methods but I use what I have and if needed go low and slow.
  5. I'm not sure about textbooks but dealing with medical and research journals who behave just as sleazy as the textbooks. Those if you are nice about it you can send a email to the author and they might sell it to you super cheap or free. This is not every author but a lot just want their info out there and they usually make essentially zero money off their published work. Copyright can be weird in that the publisher holds the copyright by permission of the original creator. It really depends on the contract that was signed for publication vs what is allowed by default by the laws. I know for so
  6. To start off with Im no expert either so I'm sure the more experience will show up and correct me later. Generally what you are looking for in the grain structure when you do these break tests is how fine the grain is, how consistent it is, and really if anything jumps out like the outer layer is a different colour from the inner layer. You can get more detailed and accurate info from the grain structure with a microscope so there is a diminishing return on using your eye. Unless you got super vision or are really good at seeing the subtle differences once it gets to a certain lev
  7. I know its a bit late and those are some good looking knives for the family but wanted to jump in and give you my professional opinion as a chef on your earlier questions. So for your question quoted here about the bolster or ricassio extending to the cutting edge you will get different opinions from different users hence why they are fairly commonly sold. In my opinion and the opinion of some of the people I've worked with it is annoying and problematic in use and we would actively avoid using them if given the option. As as stated above it interferes in sharpening and that is an
  8. So after doing some space projects today ended up being a grinding day so I didn't have to travel in a snowstorm. I was able to set the bevel on this knife and will just need to even out the transition line and make it look pretty until the materials I ordered for the handle arrive. I also pulled a do it later project out that I don't think I've touched in almost two years and did some grinding on it to start its bevels. Though its awkward shape and weight are making it a learning experience.
  9. Tool list at what level stock removal or forging? If you are grinding your knife to shape your tool list will be a lot smaller and cheaper than if you are forging the blade then finish grinding it.
  10. Yeah I thought of that right after I posted my response so I'll probably give it a try. I'll leave the question open though in case it doesn't work so if I need to do the original plan I wont need to repost.
  11. I dont know how well it will work on knife handles but a longevity method if you don't want to oil the handle every week or month which depends on usage the more you use it and clean it the more often it will need to be oiled is a oil and bees wax mixture. I cant remember the ratio off the top of my head but if you have display knives or knives you rarely use so periodically oiling them would easily be forgotten it will slow down the oil leeching back out and can last much longer than just oiling. I believe this method is good for passive use as active use will either wear off the wax layer wi
  12. It sounds like it would work but I would worry about thermal expansion of the SS. If it expands more than the refractory does wouldn't it just tear it apart? Or if the castable expands more than the SS it just gets forced out by pressure or falls out?
  13. Something to remember with unstabilized wood is to oil it periodically to prevent large shrinkage. Its what keeps butcher block going to the point they qualify as antiques if done regularly it should prevent noticeable shrinkage. For stabilized woods I don't know if its worth trying as I haven't dealt with stabilized wood in the time frame to give an answer if it works or not I'm sure someone else will. You might try oiling the wood a few times or letting it soak in oil then cleaning up the residue to get the handle back to its hydrated size. I would recommend using pharmacy store
  14. So this is my current forge that I built last year. The chamber size is roughly 7" diameter and 16" long so about 615 cu in. The burner is a 12"x3" ribbon burner made with my brain with a flu approximation of the Wayne Coe method. The problem I am having with it is that if it is used for too long it will overheat the manifold and start backburning. I believe the cause to be that the burner is too large for the volume of the forge chamber so I am planning to replace the burner with a smaller one unless I get some new ideas as to the cause. It is still operational as I tried in
  15. Sorry but I'm gonna blow smoke and it wont be helpful. As I'm sure you know Japanese and European blacksmithing developed independent of each other and there are differences in methods that came out because of different thoughts. The reason its put together weird could be a lost or specialized technique that made this axe fit its intended role. The way its put together could also depend on when it was made as you have to sometimes work with what you got and if I remember correctly preindustrial Japan did not have large amounts of good iron. From what I remember reading on ironworki
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