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Sean Blum

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Everything posted by Sean Blum

  1. From what I've read and old picked up knowledge its kind of dependent on a number of things, but it should be straight forward with a air compressor motor. If you have a volt meter you can check the terminals for a charge and if it does you can short it with a insulated wire. It just takes time as its not a instant discharge as they sometimes have limit discharge resistors so you might have to let it sit shorted for maybe 5min then check it again. Hopefully someone more experienced can come on a give a more technical and safe answer.
  2. Hello all, I have been working on my second version of a blown oil & gas burner for a furnace and wanted some opinions on the baffle/fuel nozzle mounting plate. So the burner tube is 2" pipe and I need to have the nozzle at least eyeballed centered which requires something in the tube to hold it. What I wonder is do I need to make a full plug with holes drilled like the diffusers in ribbon burners or can I just drill a hole in flat bar leaving the sides fully open. I believe the flat bar would allow more air flow but might make some fluctuating turbulence instead of
  3. Inswool HTZ is rated for 2700 but mixing "insulation" types means the 2400 standard is good enough. The 2700 wool would be good for a more consumable furnace with just a containment coating.
  4. I know there is options below 1018 just hard to find 1008 was just one I was pretty sure a real thing as I didn't want to go down the sub .18 rabbit hole at 2am. I also saw the gokunantetsu and since it really doesn't turn up anything in a western based google search I have the feeling its their version of low carbon steel since the differences in language makes some things more specific than how we think of them in English. My feeling is its either a very low carbon steel or a cleaner wrought iron since "pure" iron .02 or less is its own word I think it just might be one of those reginal spec
  5. I do know I've watched at least a part of a documentary that covered this a bit and from what I remember it is just "mild" steel. Hopefully someone has direct sources as I take most documentaries with a grain of salt when mixing historical tradition in modern times especially when there is a lot of mythical fantasy about the topic. What I mean by "mild" is that there are different standard of what mild steel are and I know US vs Europe has some differences let alone Asia. That is without each knife maker or steel maker having their own blends as mild is just a generalized category as you know.
  6. I have been happy with the Ameribrade I have as it is a definite upgrade from the Grizzly we have at least and the cost/performance so far seems to be good.
  7. If you want interesting to look at that isn't nessisarily exotic woods then I use Rocksolid Scales here in IL https://rocksolidscales.com/ He tends more towards scales and less towards blocks so if you were looking for blocks then might not be what you are looking for.
  8. There are quite a few options out there and a lot depends on if its short term or long term storage. Oils are best for short term as they are easy to remove and reapply where waxes are good for long term but might need to be removed for use depending on different preferences of the cook. What me and my coworkers do is for non-stainless is we develop the patenia and then its just making sure the only time the blade is wet is when its in use. If we need to do a preventative food grade mineral oil is our go to as its neutral and you don't have to worry about allergies really. I haven'
  9. Flame arrestors (I think that's the right term) originally at least worked by having a mesh screen too small for a flame to propagate past mainly used in lighting for mines way back when. So the size keeping it from moving is a thing but not really for forges. So i'm not going to explain the exact reason as I dont have the science only the likely aspects so take this with salt as its educated speculation on my end. There can be a couple factors keeping the flame from traveling up when in a low flow situation. One being that once the flame exists you have much less dense air so thin
  10. If its like a electric fence then more than likely it is being energized by the line.
  11. So if it was zapping you enough that you noticed it but it was just kind of a oh that zapped me a bit the most likely it was static build up. If it was energized by the plug there will be no doubt in your mind its energized when it shocks you. Either way no matter what replace the cord then try retesting with a new cord. Its possible that the ground wire has multiple breaks in it did you test the positive and negative wires as well and get null?
  12. I have found that when I get the idea to work something that isnt steel or alloy of steel I look if its used in jewelry. If yes I look at how jewelry makers work it and can give me hints on what can be forged and what is cold worked. It wont always answer my question or give me much guidance but usually points me in a good direction to start looking before dive into the forums. It can be forged at least since it is one of the materials used in Mokume-gane but like you noticed its a lower temp and can be problematic. Its really how much effort you want to put into learning how to do
  13. Thanks Alan my brain kept trying to tell me degaussing was the way to go and I had to keep reminding myself that's magnetism not static. There are like billyO a Alan said different ways to mitigate or prevent a static burst when using a belt grinder. How effective and worthwhile each one is is up to the end user. The key thing I would say other than always inspect your cords or any exposed wiring before you use them from plug to machine terminal is its worth it to keep a cheap multimeter around when you have electrical machinery especially as it ages or gets knocked around.
  14. Since most work shoes and really shoes in general have rubber soles it makes building up a charge really easy. Grinders are really just motorized rubbing a balloon across the carpet when it comes to static if you are insulated from the ground yourself.
  15. So definitely fix the power cord no matter what. Alex I dont want to ask something that sounds dumb but are you sure its your wiring or are just building up a static charge using the grinder. I know with the grinders I use if I am in constant contact with the table(metal) or the tool rest Im fine but if I hover it will give me painful jolts everytime Im close enough. Grounding won't always get rid of the static so that's why I ask especially if you wear the right kind of shoes.
  16. The first thing I would recommend is get a multimeter so you can test things without plugging it in and touching it. You don't need a $100 one one of the $20 ones will work fine for this. Could you send pictures of the exposed wiring as it sounds like it needs the power cord replaced which is depending on how its attached to the machine easy to do. I would recommend replacing the power cord and then testing the casing and motor leads with the multimeter to verify that was the problem. I will always point out though that anytime you see damage on a power cord for anything you unplug
  17. Another thing to look at is do you want to deal with air cylinders or not. Stick and flux core MIG would allow you to not worry about gas. Like BillyO said TIG is best for welding up billets for forge welding as it doesnt need to add filler metal like the others do. Downside is it has a very high learning curve and some extra consumables that are a bit pricier to make mistakes with. For just welding on handles any of them work with stick and MIG being the easiest and most efficient IMO. If you could only get one machine and you have the electrical capacity
  18. If you don't want to go the leather route which in my opinion is safer vs fabrics then you'll want to look for gloves made of a stronger fabric. Cotton is not prized for its strength and resiliency usually its more used for comfort. If you want to go through less gloves try using linen or wool as they tend to be stronger than cotton and common enough to be about the same price. The thickness of the gloves and the threadcount will have an effect on durability so thicker is better until it gets in the way of feel and control. Unfortunately as others have pointed out there is a reason
  19. Here is a SDS for the K type bricks they all have similar hazards just slightly different compositions. http://sdccd-keenan.safecollegessds.com/document/repo/4e1ca8a9-c7dc-4594-b26a-115d3e419004
  20. So the last forge I built I lined the bottom half with Mizzou and the top half with Kast-o-lite 30 mainly because I ran out of Mizzou. I didn't try to play it risky so I just spread it over the bottom half by hand waited a day to dry then flipped it over to repeat. I think with Mizzou if you try to go vertical with it you will need a form as it didn't seem to want to hold itself up. This is my one experience with it doing a fairly similar forge to your current one so that is my 2 cents.
  21. So my take on the topic is that this is one of those situations where defensive shouldn't be thought of as a shield but more like the best defense is a good offense. The purpose of a fighting knife is very simple to disable your opponent either by killing, injuring, or removing the will to fight. What a fighting knife is for for the common person is more of a psychological aspect of a leveling the playing field/ giving an advantage in a confrontation. Now I believe carrying a knife as a defensive weapon for the common person requires some knowledge and training just as much as a firearm does.
  22. I would say then use worn belts until you get to finishing belts so you are not striping the material as quickly but you will have to worry more about burning the wood as there is more friction. Otherwise its being very careful and gentle and planning out every hand movement. Hopefully someone else will come along and give better advice as I can only speak from experience on handles. I have very little woodworking experience overall and that stuff can come in handy for solving these kinds of issues.
  23. Does your 2x72 have any kind of variable speed? I use my 2x72 but have it usually at most 50% speed for hogging material and tend to use worn belts until I reach 120 grit then use wood only belts that never touch metal. Im sure there are better methods but I use what I have and if needed go low and slow.
  24. I'm not sure about textbooks but dealing with medical and research journals who behave just as sleazy as the textbooks. Those if you are nice about it you can send a email to the author and they might sell it to you super cheap or free. This is not every author but a lot just want their info out there and they usually make essentially zero money off their published work. Copyright can be weird in that the publisher holds the copyright by permission of the original creator. It really depends on the contract that was signed for publication vs what is allowed by default by the laws. I know for so
  25. To start off with Im no expert either so I'm sure the more experience will show up and correct me later. Generally what you are looking for in the grain structure when you do these break tests is how fine the grain is, how consistent it is, and really if anything jumps out like the outer layer is a different colour from the inner layer. You can get more detailed and accurate info from the grain structure with a microscope so there is a diminishing return on using your eye. Unless you got super vision or are really good at seeing the subtle differences once it gets to a certain lev
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