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Darren Tee

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Kansas City
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Vintage Scooters, Knives, Blade-smithing (new)
  1. My though was that if the flame comes from the top it is directly impacting the work (creating a hot spot), while if it comes in from the side, and the work is on the bottom of the forge it wont be directly impacted by the flame. But, admittedly, I know nothing about doing this so I will learn and the burner location may change.
  2. I used thermal insulating fire brick rated up to 2600 degrees. Sorry if I wasn't clear - its not Home Depot fire brick.
  3. I used 1 1/4" fire brick wrapped in 1/2" kayowool. The position of any burner will create a hot spot - no? Should you close the small gap around the hole where the burner goes into the forge? This is currently planned just for heat treating. If the bug bites hard we may try some welding but not just yet. Baby steps.
  4. Much thanks. Will try to figure this out. Ill keep you updated.
  5. Do you have the specs for a 1/2" T burner? I can not find them online/ Thanks,
  6. Hi All, This is my first post. I am sure that as my son and I progress with this hobby there will be more posts. After reading lots on simple forges to heat treat blades we successfully built our first forge. Pictures below. We used a propane torch but I don't think that it is "big" enough. The heating chamber of this forge is very small - 2 1/2" x 9" x 4 1/4". I think that the Frosty T design would be too big. My question is there a smaller burner design out there, or is the Frosty T design OK for such a small forge? Many thanks,
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