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Widney Burton

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Everything posted by Widney Burton

  1. That's about the extent of what I was able to find as well when I looked. I also tried looking for a serial number database with individual information. The guy I got it from has an xray gun for identifying metals. I guess I'll just have to have him test it. Not sure why he hadn't already.
  2. Hey, guys! A client of mine gave me a jet engine turbine blade! He's wanting me to see if I can make him a knife with it. My question is this; how can I identify the alloy of this? I obviously need to know this so that I can properly heat treat it if it is capable of becoming a good knife. I will attach photos of the blade itself as well as the serial and part numbers engraved in the base of the piece. Thanks in advance!!
  3. Thank you, everyone! All of your answers were very helpful. I have been letting my customers know about the development of a patina on their carbon blades as well as proper care instructions. I have been using mineral oil on my personal forged carbon blades and it works very well. The reason I'm so curious is because I had a customer send me back a knife that I had made for him, as it needed maintenance and was covered in specks of rust. This was my first kitchen knife and I made the mistake of making a kydex storage sheath for it (bad idea, I know). Well, he hasn't ever had nice cutlery befor
  4. Hey guys! So, lately I have been using camellia oil for a rust preventative on all of my kitchen knives that I make for customers. I'm finding that it can start to leave a sticky residue overtime. What are your suggestions for a food safe rust preventative for kitchen cutlery? Waxes? Oils? Other? Thanks in advance!!
  5. Hey guys! So, I have a 22 piece knife set order on my books made from nitro v. Now, I am not set up to heat treat stainless and yet my customer requires it. So, I am wondering who you guys might recommend to have these sent to for proper factory heat treatment. Also, if you happen to know their cost as well as a link to the web page, I would be eternally grateful Thanks guys!!!
  6. Here is my makers mark. I operate under "WarBurton Blades"
  7. Hey, guy and gals! So, I finally got my first Damascus knife order. I'm unfortunately having to have someone make the steel billet for me, as I do not have adequate equipment to realistically make a high layer Damascus billet myself. Anyway, I'm wanting to make sure that I get this blade done correctly. I usually use peanut oil to heat treat my monosteel blades, but, as I stated, I want to get this knife done right. What would be the ideal heat treat process, with Temps and cycle counts included, to achieve adequate results? Iappreciste any and all feedback, and if there is a thread alre
  8. You're awesome, man. Thank you so much I'll replace them, soon. I've gotten quite a bit of use out of them.
  9. Hey, all!! So, I purchased some non woven scotch Brite belts a few months ago and have used them religiously in almost every build I've done since I received them. I've noticed that they aren't quite as potent as they were when I first got them (naturally), so, I was wondering if cleaning them with hot water and dawn dish soap would improve their performance? Also, I have noticed some cracking in the abrasive compound that is attached to them when they are made. Should I start piling them as I use them or after I use them to prevent that from getting any worse? Lastly
  10. Okay, let me know if this is the wrong place. So, a customer wants me to make 2 knives for him and for the handles, he wants me to use a blanket that belonged to his two dogs that passed away (these knives are both themed for them). Clearly, he wants to be able to see the blanket as a reminder, so, should I make it micarta or should I cast it in resin? What is the most affordable way to do this? Do I need any special equipment like a vaccum bag setup or something? I don't want to lose this sale when I know I can quickly learn a new skill. Thanks guys!
  11. Good to know btw what would happen if say you baked it for 30 mins or so at 200f? It wouldn't ruin the temper would it? Would it help solidify the coffee etch?
  12. Awesome! I'll give that a shot, then. This is the type of information o was after thank you
  13. Yea I have done a ferric soak at 10 mins followed by a 30 minute coffee etch and it yielded some decent results. It just didn't stay on the blade very well, which I'm assuming because I didn't clean it off well enough before the coffee soak. I'll experiment and see what I come up with and if I come to a good result, I'll share the process for anyone else who might be interested.
  14. I hope this is the correct place for this, if not, please let me know for future reference. So, I'm working on a chef's knife for a customer and he wants it darkened. It is a 52100 blade and I have it hand sanded to 1500 grit. I was curious about the possible different results between using ferric chloride and instant coffee. I plan on doing a couple of test pieces with scrap 52100 and deciding that way, but, first I wanted to pick y'all's brains a bit and see if anyone else has already done this and has some valuable information for me. Are there any suggestions or recommendations
  15. What would you recommend for a muffle pipe size? I was thinking 1/8 thick round pipe at 3.5 inch inner diameter by 12 inch long. Is the thickness about right? I use anthracite coal. That's the type of heat I'm working with if it helps to know. it's the only thing available and I own an actual metric ton of the stuff lol
  16. Thanks, Alan!! I'll look into a muffle pipe and give it a shot!
  17. Hey, guys! So, I'm looking for information on heat treating 80crv2 in my coal forge. I have successfully heat treated 80crv2 in my forge before, but I just want to make sure I have all of the knowledge I can get so that I can grow each time I do this. Since i dont have a non contact thermometer gun, I go by visuals and I have a pretty good understanding of what temperature I'm looking at in a general area. I'm heat treating a chefs knife and i dont want to do it post grind because my last experience with that ended in major warping failure. So I'm just going to pregrind my 45's an
  18. Were you successful in snapping that small piece? I was going to say use a hammer and your vise but I never would have thought to tape it lol that's good thinking. I think I'm going to start leaving a piece of extra steel sticking off the side of all of my blades from now on to cut off and try snapping after I heat treat them. Thats a great idea to get data on my blades heat treatment!
  19. I was actually gonna etch this blade to make the spine very dark and the bevels bright. Good to know that it takes on a good etch!
  20. This is the 52100 blade that I have been working on since posting this question. I have heat treated and profiled and am now hand sanding and polishing. Its 3/16 thick, 12 inches long and 1 1/4 wide. I tempered at 350 for 2 one and a half hour cycles.
  21. Thank you all, for sharing this invaluable knowledge on this thread. I have found that my first try working with 52100 and putting your advice into practice in my coal forge worked out beautifully! I still have some scrap 52100 that I'm going to cut up into 3 inch pieces and do some testing with heat treat processes. Its easily my new favorite blade steel!
  22. I absolutely appreciate the quick replies. Now it makes sense why I couldn't find any videos on dry ice cryo treating 52100 steel lol
  23. New maker, here. I am working on an order that is a 52100 12 inch long, 3/16 inch thick Bowie styled blade. I do alot of my research and studying on youtube (it's just how I learn best) watching videos made by reputable knife makers (i.e. Jason Knight, Kyle Royer, Fire Creek Forge, etc.) And their processes of working with certain types of steel and so on. I saw that on one of the videos I had studied for 52100 steel, the maker heat treated, cryo treated and then tempered. My reason for posting this, is to obtain a detailed proper description on the steps taken to complete this process. I use
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