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Ted Stocksdale

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Ted Stocksdale last won the day on March 22

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About Ted Stocksdale

  • Birthday November 5

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Irving, Texas
  • Interests
    Caprentry, 3D Modelling, gardening, metalwork

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  1. Having spent FAR too much time replacing all of the fittings on my copies of that circled item... Learn From My Fail That is a 3/8" 90 degree male NPT to 3/8" male flare elbow. NPT is what most of us would consider a "normal" pipe - slightly tapered so it gets tighter as you go, but otherwise looks straight. Flare is that weird beveled thing. I would strongly recommend you get a parts list from someone who's figured out the easier way to do it or you run a high risk of spending a lot more money than you intended and end up with a bucket of oddl
  2. Along the "do you have" lines... do you have anything narrower? Your store is creeping up into 4-inch land, and I usually use stuff more on the 1.25 side of things.
  3. That's amazing. Really love it.
  4. This weekend, I forgot that brass gets hot when you sand it and burned my fingers on a guard Besides that bit of brilliance, I worked on the machete made from 6150: I finished forging it out and ground it to shape, and got it sanded down to 120. Ran out of time to go any further, so more sanding and heat-treating ... some other weekend. I also made an attempt at my own micarta sort of thing with epoxy and some fabric
  5. I can read... yeah, my FORGE is probably the size of a 30-lb tank (but I made it from sheet metal, not a tank). My tank that I use for the gas is a 40.... And I would listen to Alex because honestly mine was so big that I put extra kawool inside to make the interior volume smaller (on the plus side, the outside doesn't get as hot as it once did)
  6. It does depend on your reason, I would think. I got a 40-lb tank just because it's a long drive to the most reasonable filling station and I don't want to do it very often - I only get so many hours in a weekend, and I'd rather spend them forging than driving to get propane.
  7. I just tried an experiment of tracing through a piece of paper. As long as you draw "dashed" lines (trace a short distance, then pick up the scriber, then another short distance), the paper holds up well enough and the design is visible enough that I could easily "clean up" the lines. (I don't have any blue tack, or I'd try that: that sounds nifty)
  8. You can't see all the layout dots very well, but what I did was measure the distances from the center and scribe a little dot at a number of locations: then it's just a game of "connect the dots". You can also always just cut the paper shape out and trace around it - the blue doesn't take any pressure to scratch off. The blue is also nice because to "erase", you just paint some more on over the lines you don't like.
  9. I use blue layout fluid to put a layer on the steel, then use a carbide-tipped scriber to etch on the design (looks a lot like a pencil, but with a carbide tip instead of graphite) Amazon.com: Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): Industrial & Scientific Amazon.com: 6 Pieces Engraving Pen Tip Scriber Includes 2 Tungsten Carbide Scribers with Magnet, 2 Double Head Scribers and 2 Replacement Tip, Metal Etching Engraving Pen for Metal Glass Ceramics Stone Wood: Home Improvement It ends up looking like this:
  10. That's the kind of burner I have I could not weld with just one, even after fixing the other issues with my home-made forge, which included - Bricks: these are a heatsink, even the soft insulating kind don't insulate very well. Fiber wool works so much better - Uncoated: you need an IR coating. - One of those stainless steel burners: I could not weld with only one of those: it takes two even after fixing the insulation and coating. There is a frequent member here named Wayne Coe who runs a site that has really good deals on the materials. He'll be
  11. I didn't cut it off. I ended up taking the combination disk sander/drive wheel part of the horrible old multitool thing and stuck it on the end. Figured it was better to save something from that sad failure, and I guess a 7" disk spinning away is better than nothing. It's a lot smoother than the old thing was (which in retrospect, it had better be... but I was traumatized by the multitool that would shake things off the wall even while bolted to my workbench) and everyone was right: it's not a problem. Thanks, everyone. I listened
  12. I don't have a power hammer or a press, and I'm a software developer so as you can imagine I'm just not the strongest guy on the block. For me, something that isn't too stubborn and stays workable from bright yellow-orange all the way down to "just barely glowing" is a huge plus. Maybe the 5160 I got from Jantz is wonky but when I've used it, it only moves at all when it's super hot, and then only a tiny amount. The cleaver I made from it took two weekends of what seemed like endless cycles of "heat it as hot as I could, hit it six times, then back in the heat again." Forging th
  13. This weekend, I assembled the stand and got my new grinder set up. It's a huge improvement over the frankly horrible "multitool" grinder that bolted to the side of my bench-grinder. That caused most of Saturday also being cleaning the garage to make a space for it to live. My elbow is also still being a bit twitchy, so I limited my forging to finishing up a dagger made from a file of sorts, and trying out some of the new 6150 steel. The dagger: (shown alongside a hardie-hole punch I welded up today too.) It was a very weird file: 14-ish inches long and a
  14. So, finally got a chance to work with one of the 6150 bars. I've started a machete-inspired blade from one of the 1.5 x .216 bars: Personally, I found it MUCH easier to work with than 5160: it responded well to my hammering when hot, and it moved well even without being blazing hot - no need to be at welding heat. I found the resistance to hammering just right to allow for really good control for someone still on the early part of the experience curve, like me
  15. Thanks for the weigh-in! Yeah, I think I'll just go with the PVC cover idea rather than trying to cut anything.
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