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Ryan Hooten

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Everything posted by Ryan Hooten

  1. Josh and Jaron that's a good ideal I think that's exactly what im going to do. I guess I kind of got nervous thinking if I have to re drill my holes will I make the tang weak and easier to break. but I guess the brass will fill the holes and ill just make sure I don't drill that area. Alex actually I just noticed that in the picture it must of been a shadow because the tip of the blade isn't darker on the tip weird. thanks guys for the input and I will definitely take a look at some more viking seax because now that I looked at it they don't typically have plung lines.
  2. I just finished my first knife. It’s forged / stock removal from a leaf spring. Looking back I wish I would of done a through or a full handle tang. disclaimer the handle is oddly shaped but does fit my hand luckily enough. I got everything fitted up and since I had the blade wrapped up I didn’t realize I glued the knife in the handle material backwards.
  3. Gary I ended up adding refectory coating to the wool. I didn't add anything to the bricks I didn't know that was a thing to do. the rear of my forge has a door and I actually did knock a brick off today when I was forging my tongs
  4. this forge only has a rear door but the fire bricks do help a lot. I just recently finished a set of tongs and my first knife and having this stand was a huge blessing. what the chances you would know anyone trying to get rid of an anvil in the indy area??
  5. I live on the west side of Indy around Avon Plainfield area. Sean here is the finish product the forge is actually pretty snug in there if I’d a been a 1/32 tight I would of had to do some sanding but I through bolted it for sure. I also added a slide out tool rest which also is useful for holding bricks in front of the front opening. now I just need to disassemble it and sand and paint to make it look like it’s official
  6. I figured it would probably be a good idea to build a suitable stand for my forge. Idea was from YouTube second shelf will be layered with fire bricks to allow pieces to cool down. disclaimer - I’ve welded maybe a handful of times in my life so to all the professionals out there I’m sorry for embarrassing the art of welding.
  7. Thanks to all you guys for the input I think I might of figured it out. There was a jam nut in between the tension pulley and the arm itself. It’s about a 1/4” thick so I removed it and I’m tracking a lot better
  8. That’s exactly what I thought when I was aligning everything. I took a stick rule and measured in a 1/4 on each wheel and the track wheel is off about that much. It came pre shimmed from Diltator but it’s shims push it in towards the drive wheel and I’m like you I feel like it needs to go the opposite way that it is. Thanks for the input I’m going to go give that a try and see if I can get it closer
  9. So im new to the forum and knife making all together. I just recently decided to purchase a 2x72 belt grinder from Diktator because of another blade forums recommendation. as you can see in one of the videos the tooling arm is very sloppy so I've shimmed it up and down. I put my feeler gauge in the side and when I tighten the tool arm down it moves .09". so after shimming the tooling arm I can get it plum vertically and the platinum plate wheels plum with the drive wheel. the issue is my tension arm no matter what I do I can not get my belt to track correctly. can anyone watc
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