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Matthew Biondi

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About Matthew Biondi

  • Birthday August 17

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Cleveland, OH
  • Interests
    Games of all kinds, Computer Science, Woodworking, and (of course) Bladesmithing

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  1. Yessir! Well, technically I haven't drawn back the handles yet, but mounting the wood handles will be done via burn-through with the blade wrapped in a wet rag, so that will be the effect. It was quite the challenge to harden it, because even with handles bent I needed a wider quench tank than I had easy access to. Ended up trying a few different things and just settling on a plastic bucket... not a long-term solution, but for one careful quench it didn't get hot enough to melt any plastic and produce toxic fumes.
  2. Making a drawknife for a woodworker friend of mine. The steel is 52100, and this was my first project using a known steel that I bought new! This one's almost done, just need to add the handles, which will be turned on said friend's lathe! I chose to keep the blade straight (not curved toward or away from the handles) , and the blade is 8" long. Even without the handles, it's definitely a functional drawknife! I really enjoyed this project, and I like the bit of forge scale left on the finish. Tells you that it's handmade without being in the way! I always appreciate thoughts and advice. One of the things I struggled with was getting the bends on each handle the same. I made the nicer-looking one completely by accident, and of course couldn't reproduce it on the other side P.S. Yes, the photo is edited together with shots taken throughout the process. It works to show the process
  3. This is looking incredible, man! Keep it up!
  4. Appreciate the info! The Heller rasp I recently used did take a quench okay (it wasn't perfect, but that's more likely on me or the oil I use than on the steel), and this one is likely the same batch. As far as legality, they're legal to own in my state, just not to concealed carry, though again I appreciate the warning!
  5. Not technically today, but very recent! The forging was done quite a bit ago, and my hammer technique is better now. The guard and scales were just the other day. I'm pretty happy with how this one is turning out. Still some finishing work to go, planning on getting it done this week. Found out the heat-treat wasn't perfect during some harsh testing, but I think I've patched it up by changing the geometry a bit so it's thicker behind the edge.
  6. My wife wants me to try my hand at a dagger. The steel I have that isn't already earmarked for projects is either 1) crap, 2) air-hardening, or 3) farrier's rasps (Heller Excels to be exact). I am not opposed to buying new steel if I must, but I'm curious if anyone has made a dagger from a rasp. If so, what difficulties did you run into? I think I'm going to try and make it fully integral like I've seen someone do with other blade styles out of rasps.
  7. 4th'd. I don't sell blades yet, but I have had my fair share of making things for people / buying things from maker friends and hearing horror stories. Explain to your mutual friend that you're glad they sent someone your way, but that this particular friend of theirs didn't value the time you put into your work, plain and simple. Good friends pay full price (unless you are kind and they have financial burdens, but that's it's own discussion). Hell, I have an artist friend who I think undervalues her own work, so the two pieces I commissioned from her, I paid her more than what she asked.
  8. This is awesome. Love your commentary, and the ingot you made is gorgeous!
  9. That totally makes sense. 3 inches thick is pretty darn big, I certainly don't expect my home forge to do that. It was more a qualitative "if they can get 3 inches in that time, I should be able to get 1/12 of that thickness in that time" Induction forge... Someday!! Got it. While forging alone, flaming newspaper cannon. While forging for an audience, human torch.
  10. That sounds AMAZING and now I'm definitely gonna go the burning newspaper route. Yeah, the Black Beauty seems to be the same price as I can source the parts for myself, and paying shipping seems worth the saving assembly time. I'll have to wait until March to buy one to keep the wife happy about how much I'm spending on this hobby, but man I'm excited now!
  11. Yeah, it's definitely on the list. I've been careful about using a respirator for now while I don't have it, but it' sounds like it might also help for the heat, so that'll jump up in priority. Thanks, Wayne! After looking at those pages, I have two questions. First, how much of the refractory and the IR reflective do I need for a forge this size? Would 1 5# bag and 1 pint work? Second, your instructions state to "Paint the interior with an infrared reflective" - forgive my ignorance, but does that mean paint over the refractory on the wool, or on the interior of the forge body? Okay, I like that burner setup. Not sure about getting a turkey fryer, but it's definitely doable regardless! Thank you everyone for the responses!!
  12. Thanks for the advice! Yeah, I wasn't sold on this design myself. I might do just that - make it taller and narrower and move the burner. Is there any advantage to angling the burner in from the top so it isn't exactly perpendicular to the forge body? I've read that in a couple of places, but most designs I see done just have it flat against the forge.
  13. Wrap it as in outside as well as what I have inside? Or do I just need thicker insulation inside? Yeah, I'm looking at some plans as well as at the Black Beauty from anvilfire. Might be a dumb question, but the Black Beauty has mounting instructions, and I have no idea how one would light it once you've mounted it to the forge body?
  14. Hi, everyone! This will be my first post on the forum, I'm stoked to be here! So, I recently built my starter forge, and I'm noticing that it's taking longer to get up to heat that I would expect From this source, it seems like it should be about 5 minutes per inch of stock up to 3 inches thick, and mine is nowhere near that (like < 1/4"). I definitely have a hot spot, as I can get 2-3 inches heated up in about that time frame, but the remainder of a piece just stays pretty cool for a long time. I have left the metal in for 20+ minutes and still just heated up that section that's right near the flame. I'm wondering if my forge design is flawed, or if it might just be that I'm using a torch burner and not a purpose-built one. Attached are some photos of the forge in case a visual is helpful. Thank you in advance for your help! Ignore the piece of pin stock in the interior photo, that heats up no problem because it's so small.
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