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Conan Dunlap

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  1. Well I will jump on too, I grew up in central Oregon outside of Prineville in the Ochoco mountains. This was all before any digital photography so the first 5 pictures are all off of the internet, but it definitely shows the type of environment I grew up in. We never went camping because we grew up on a national forest so you were already out in the woods! Now that I am older and live in CA, I get my outdoors fix hiking in the Sierra Nevada mountains. The first picture is Walton lake that I spent a lot of time at when I was young. The 4th picture is Stien's Pillar
  2. I couldn't find any Parks 50 when I ordered the AAA, but now I see it is available everywhere so I just ordered some. Thanks.
  3. Yes, I am sure that I went too high on the second quench, I was reacting to the lack of color inside the foil on the normalization cycles. I do realize this was a mistake. Does anyone have any experience with the Brownells ATP 641 anti-scale coating? I used this during the first quench and I am questioning if this prevented proper hardening.
  4. Also, by the way, I borrowed that normalization and quench cycles from Wes Detrick to give credit!
  5. That is a great idea, thanks. I will have to try that on the next one. Thanks, I love doing this, I hope I can get to the ability level of some of you guys some day! I did 3 normalization cycles at 1600 F, 1550 F, then 1500 F. This was done wrapped in stainless foil to try and prevent decarb, but I am afraid I am not getting the blade itself up to the correct temperatures because when I take the blade out of the foil, I don't see the colors I would expect. I quenched at 1500 F the first time with a clay coating to prevent decarb. The second quench I went up to
  6. I don't know for sure that it was hardened properly, it did pass the file test, but I don't have a method to check the actual hardness. Thanks for the tips on grinding, I think I may be using too much pressure, and probably too old of belts. Do you use lower speeds as well when you get to higher grits or keep the same speeds? Thanks, I may be using too many grits. I do 36 to 80 to 120, etc.
  7. I am trying to make a chef's knife for my wife, and I overheated the blade upon grinding, had to take off some of the belly, then during hand sanding I noticed that I still had a soft spot on the blade. I re-hardened, but with the de-carb I lost some additional depth and I am ready to scrap the blade. The questions I have are around grinding technique, I am assuming I am running my grinder a too high of a speed? Also, should I try and re-profile the blade as something else or take the opportunity to break it and see what the grain structure looks like? Any tips or guidance on design and ae
  8. Thanks, I will create a new post in the beginners place. I was using 80CRV2.
  9. I have been a lurker for a while, but I wanted to share what I was working on and look for some advice. I was working on a chefs knife for my wife, the first picture is the original profile. during grinding I overheated the edge, so I ground away some of the belly to get back to hard steel. Then during hand sanding, I noticed that I still had soft sections in the heal of the blade, so I re-hardened and had to grind away even more of the blade. Now I am thinking I just need to re-forge a new blade. I didn't include any pictures of the blade after I re-heat treated, but I lost about another
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