Jump to content

Francis Gastellu

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Francis Gastellu

  1. Nice! Part of me worries that the support arm might rotate slightly under the load while the blade is being ground, but since you mention that it worked really well I imagine it's not an issue in practice?
  2. Thank you Doug! There are definitely issues that I want to address with my next project by this feels like improvement. Not at all. The blade was quenched in Parks 50, which gave it its slight uchi sori. I had never used W2 before so I more or less followed John White's process as documented here The goop I use is thermo-loc, which I like because it doesn't really smell much at all and is really clean to handle, although it costs a bit more than traditional rosin/pitch. Thanks for asking. That's a journey I feel only just starte
  3. I was specifically focusing on getting as clean a ground as I could this time around, as I had not done a satisfactory job before (imo). I'm quite happy with the result for myself but It's really nice when connoisseurs also appreciate it Thank you for the kind words and the suggestions!
  4. Beautiful! Nice, I will try a ring mandrel next time! In the past, I've used a stake I made, which has this flaring built-in (seen below in one of my ill-fated attempts, before I switched to soldering at the machi). This worked well on my previous piece, though not as pronounced as the examples you gave: But as you noticed, it didn't work so well this time, where my fuchi is mostly parallel. I'm hoping the ring mandrel lets me control this better, thank you for suggesting it. Similarly, my kashira is lacking a subtle curve at the bott
  5. Thanks, that makes sense. Even though it's still a fairly soft alloy, I've had the same thing happen to me twice on a shibuichi fuchi (though maybe the real reason is my lack of soldering skills ). I figured I'd try it this way again as this is the way I was shown; I was ready to see it fail but with copper, that worked out nicely.
  6. Thank you all for the very kind words, I'm glad you like it! This is using panels, but my previous blades did not, they were all using full wraps. On this one I used panel because I had a piece of very small same that I had been keeping for a while, which had very small nodes that were appropriate for a tanto. Unfortunately the skin was too narrow for a full wrap. I do wish I had made the panels slightly larger, as they do peek a tiny bit through the ito Agreed that on a larger blade I would prefer to to go with full wraps. In fact for any blade that is going
  7. Wow, just wow... that is magnificent! Truly beautiful work.
  8. Hi everyone, I just finished a tanto I had been working on for the last 3 weeks . The blade is W2, uchi-sori with a 7 1/2" nagasa, and the fittings are copper with shibuichi inlays. Here are the photos of the build: Profiling: Hardening: Polished: Now for the part that's really time consuming, the fittings: For this blade, I decided on a ginkgo leaf theme, a symbol of pe
  9. Congratulations! Nicely done, those are gorgeous
  10. Very happy about my brodbeck, customer support is top notch.
  11. Made some progress on fittings and tsuka for a tanto:
  12. Gotcha, I naively assumed you were looking at the same type of device I mentioned. I'm interested to hear your experience should you decide to acquire this.
  13. That's both a cool blade, with a cool handle!
  14. You didn't mention what you intend to use this for so feel free to ignore me here: if this is to test blades, then be aware that it's very challenging (ie, nearly impossible) to get an accurate reading from a piece of steel the thickness of a blade. Trying to lay the blade flat on a reference block while taking a reading is difficult at best. Also, if you do manage it, you'll have a very visible mark where the probe hit, which you'll need to grind off. I realize that wasn't your question I don't know about this model unfortunately. I have a Hartip, which works ok, but I no longer
  15. It depends on how you grind the final blade. The photo you posted is one of the traditional constructions for a katana-type blade, where the inner billet is low carbon, and the jacket is high carbon. On those, the final shaping and grinding will still leave the high carbon on the edge, while the core will be soft. Ie, very little grinding is done to the high carbon layer, the blade is forged almost to shape. What you've probably seen on FIF is the "other" way of doing this, where you put the high carbon in the center and the low carbon on the outside. This
  16. This is my setup: Drum pedal is connected to a cable that's routed underneath the forge and connects up to the door's counterweight. Operation is hands free: step on the pedal and the door opens (partially or fully depending on how hard you step on) -- let go and the door closes. The pivot can slide in and out so that the door can sit closer or father from the opening to leave it partially open or fully closed. The door itself is just a soft firebrick that can be replaced when it eventually starts to crumble.
  17. My tiny anyang 33lbs has a 1.5 x 3ft footprint and hasn't seem to have damaged my 3 inch concrete garage floor after two years of moderate use. I do have 1/2" thick rubber padding under the base, but unsure how much that really matters. For reference, ymmv, ianal
  18. Beautiful work, Bjorn. I love the simplicity of that clean hamon line, and the buffalo horn complements it nicely. Very well done.
  19. Adding silver to copper (making it shibuichi) will definitely change the color to a lighter white-ish pink, sort of rose-gold (here's a 20% shibuichi pendant before patination). You can get by with 15/20% silver or less, but one issue you'll have is oxidation, which will eventually turn the alloy grey (possibly with some vert-de-gris depending on how it gets handled over time). Typically those copper alloys get patinated (traditionally with rokushō) which tend to stabilize the final color, but you mentioned you're not interested in that (besides, if this is inlaid on a kiridashi, the steel wou
  20. Did some profiling today, And played with some clay... Dirty hamon etch (220 grit!) between tempering cycles, because I'm that impatient. Looks like it worked out okay, curious to see what that'll look like with the final polish.
  21. I haven't worked on a blade for many weeks, I've been focusing on non-ferrous work for a while. Today I felt like forging, so I grabbed some W2 I had acquired a few weeks back and started working on a tanto. I have some notion of making a somewhat traditional katana down the line, and I've never made a hamon before, so this is will be my first go at it. This was the easy part. Still needs profiling, hardening, cleanup, polish, and fittings It was very pleasant forging session, it took me abou
  22. That worked out quite nicely. There were differing advice, so I am wondering if you decided to cold work it or if you forge it at black heat?
  • Create New...