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Welsh joel

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    Wauseon, Oh United States of America

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  1. Bad ladder pattern? Huh? I like it alot- looks like a pretty good pattern to me.
  2. I'm no master smith... But I'd go with what's recommended for the hardest steel in the bunch, or what seems to be the most alloy in the blade. 1080/1095/15n20- I'd go with what works for 1095. Any 5160 mix- I'd treat as 5160.
  3. Mine's only about an 8" internal diameter, but about 16" long. I fire on a single forced air burner. Run around 2-3psi to forge, up to 10psi to forge weld. I went this route for the same reason- lower fuel use. But its a little more versatile being a bit bigger. The first picture is during a re-line with mizzou refractory.
  4. Not huge... but a little bigger than you might think is what you want. If its just big enough to fit a flat bar in- it'll work... but you're going to be replacing bricks, refractory alot sooner- from smacking and poking the walls with steel trying to get it in and out. We're human, its really hot stuff, with fire. It will happen. Anything you line it with- ceramic wool, refractory, brick etc.... always remember to double your thickness when figuring out internal space- there's two walls, a top & bottom to every forge. So 1" is going to be 2"- 3" will be
  5. Welcome to the madness!! The first thing I ever forged was a simple round bar door handle for my shed... still use it. Lol I have yet to make a poker, tongs, or any of the "traditional" smith projects. I seem stuck on blades. Lol.
  6. Well... the mail man made some deliveries today. Got new wheels for my grinder, and some quench oil that took a month to get after I ordered it.
  7. You don't have to heat to welding temps every time to forge- after you have a good forge weld. Three or four good welding heats- and you feel like the bar is solid... you can forge at a lower heat then. (In general, some steels you want to keep hotter) A good orange/ high red should suffice for forging, will keep you from more loss from scale, and maybe burning your steel when thinner. Its a balancing game. It's easier to forge weld smaller pieces by hand with a hammer- than longer pieces. My last couple were no more than 1.5" x 2" stacks. B
  8. Not yet... but I'm working on it. There are sets for sale- that go down to 3/8-1/2" diameter wheels. They use no rubber backing... just turned steel or aluminum.
  9. John- give us a little more info. What kind of steel? Whats your method you're using? Hammering by hand, press, power hammer? Mebbe we can figure it out.
  10. I tried to do some further net research on the "carbon steel" referenced- to no avail... that was literally the only one I found online. Sounds like a worthy project to try. Good luck with it!
  11. Re-doing the heat treat is going to kill that logo etch as well... but make it usable again. Found this online.
  12. I think they've all hit the nail on the head- not hot enough. It's notoriously hard to get a photo to show your heat colors... but in your 4th pic, your forge doesn't look anywhere near hot enough. You wanna wait til she's good and heated before starting. Just an example of color differences for forge welding heat. You want the forge looking yellow, almost white in color. And any time you do something... and you learn from it, what not to- and what to do.... its never wasted. Because it will be useful knowledge for years to come... versus those f
  13. My wife is a city girl... and 20 yrs older. She doesn't fish. We have a pond. She doesn't do crafty things. I have a forge, a vinyl plotter, laser engraver, woodworking tools, etc. She doesn't shoot. I have a backstop, 30 yds and a few toys. She is the people person, I'm the introvert. Opposites truly do attract. Lol. 27 years I've tried to get her interested- no dice. So to me, to have a spouse or partner interested and willing to join in on the fun- is amazing. Congrats and good luck in joint projects.
  14. Can she call my wife and get her in the forge with me? Awesome!
  15. That's gonna look sweet when you get it done. 200+ layer is pretty cool... but I have a fondness for the low layer bolder patterns, simple and clean.
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