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Welsh joel

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Welsh joel last won the day on March 29

Welsh joel had the most liked content!

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    Wauseon, Oh United States of America

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  1. For what you described as "working conditions"- it came out pretty decent. My most?- impression from it? You learned from the process... which is priceless if you want to make another, ten more, or your next 100 knives. I really like the orange line running through the black in the handle. Striking combination.
  2. No additional info... But my opinion- its pretty rough. There's some usable face area... but inherited, as in family piece? Is there much family history to it? As in- this was my great grandads, passed on... Etc. Or did dad or brother buy it at a garage sale type thing? That would drive my ideas on even touching it. "Proper" restoration work, proper as in the right way restoration work is expensive, and alot of work. If it was my great grandaddy's and I got it...I'd keep it just like it is.
  3. Well... that was fun. Just came in from shutting down the forge for the day. I think it was a good call. Have the new refractory to re-line her anyways. But, I cut, stacked, forge welded and cut my first "feather" pattern attempt. Remains to be seen how it holds up.
  4. I could see some 15n20.... twinkles? Take a piece of stock, and ground it to a four pointed star shape- cut thin wafers off it, and stack in your powder parallel to the blade bevels. Something like the blue one in your bottom picture in your first post?
  5. I have never done an integral yet... Most of blades- my "signature style" i guess, come out with angular handles full tang. Saying that- I oddly, and weirdly enough... really love that blade's profile, and the organic slight recurve line flow thru from the spine & the bolster into the handle. That's a very cool looking blade.
  6. From what I remember- the recommended mixture tube ratio should be 1 to 8... 1x the diameter of the pipe= 8 x the length for optimal mixture. This was the advice from the burner gurus on IFI... when I was building mine. And my burner entrance as a sealing example.? To the right of the blade.
  7. Spent my last part of the day wiring in a new 220v outlet for the cheap tig welder i bought. Played with it enough to know I need more... experience and parts. Then proceeded to cut down stock for a 3 steel damascus. 36 layers- Used 1080, 15n20, and spring stacks from a '70s VW beetle. Got a good solid forge weld so far... and a sore shoulder. Got it drawn out a full inch longer... yay. Will be working it down, and stacking once more- for my first attempt at a "feather" pattern. If I can figure out how to hold it, the punch, and hit with the hammer all
  8. The old saying is forge thick, grind thin... I've heard forge to a nickel, grind to a dime. The point is- too thin on a blade before heat treat can cause you to burn the edge, warp it, before you even get to sharpening. I recently did my first hollow ground blade- i went thin on the edge... when I went to heat it for quenching, the edge curled up in an S in two places. I heated it slowly, straightened the edge again... and reheated, moving it in & out of my forge- slowly heating the whole blade. It still warped a bit over the whole blade...
  9. Awesome, what i was hoping to hear before I dug in on an experiment.
  10. Appreciate the info guys. Guess I'll find out here soon.
  11. He's one i looked at. They have a flat rate at 20lbs too.. but shipping these days is pretty crazy. Lol.
  12. I know the two brands are the favorites in forges... but the shipping costs for kasto-lite that I could find in any quantity- were almost half, if not more than the cost of the refractory. 55lbs was a bit more than I was planning on needing. Mizzou is 2/3 less cost. Found a place that sold mizzou in 20lb quantity, at a lot less shipping cost... but, I'm beginning to realize why. My package arrived late, and damaged. Got it yesterday, almost a week late. Well, fingers crossed- ill give it a try. I'm planning on another forge bui
  13. Halfway, part of the way, just enough... whatever works. But not all the way, so the burner is inside, all the way through your lining in the heat. Mine runs about 3/4"-1" in past the shell. I have 2" of ceramic wool, and 1/4"-1/2" of hellcote refractory lining.
  14. Anybody worked with mizzou before? I'm looking to redo the lining in my forge, and will be going over the 2" of wool. Do I need to focus on a form and cast it, or can I spread it over the wool after buttering, like the hellcote I originally used? I dont have any newer pics of its current configuration- but my forge has since been halved vertically to drop internal area, and down to one blown burner. I have also cut a pass-thru hole in the back wall for longer pieces and more venting. I'm just looking to re-line with something a little more durable and f
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