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Welsh joel

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Welsh joel last won the day on June 1 2021

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    Wauseon, Oh United States of America

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  1. Next try- don't draw it out. I used a 1095 core, copper sheets, and 1095 outer slabs on mine. I kept my blade within the length of 1095 stock I had- 7-8" or so? Then did the perimeter weld, the setup etc... but I just did lighter taps to "set" the overall thickness with the copper. That way- I could keep the temperatures lower, and not have to focus on drawing to length. It already has it for a shorter blade. I like the multiple copper layers in yours- my next cu mai attempt is gonna be a few more.
  2. Message understood... But, I do sign work every day. I can be in a bucket truck in the rain one day, or crawling in a roof the next doing electrical repairs. My tool bag gets wet all the time. Keeping them clean and serviceable is a constant chore. Hand flangers/seamers that I use all the time... are rusty on the outside. I clean them weekly... Which just enforced/proved your point. Hmmmm...
  3. Do the sheath like a katana? Cut it down the center, and carve out the blade channel keeping it aligned- so the wood grain matches back up. Glue it back together, shape it, and use the horn piece as the top of the sheath. If you get it just right, the sheath diameter could be just a hair bigger than the handle.
  4. Some cleanup, and got an electric stove that was given me- moved into the shed. It'll be a heat source, and tempering oven as soon as I get a circuit breaker in that will handle it.
  5. I've thought about it myself- but the reasons you stated are what hold me back. For a display, or a shelf queen... it'd be perfect. Cerakote is durable, but still will scratch. The upside- my EDC pistol has been coated for 5 years? Still no rust on the slide. Which three years in- was the reason for coating it. Definately scratched off.
  6. Something I've done is used sticker vinyl. Wrapped it like a tape, overlapping around the handle. Tight and overlapping- it's waterproof enough for ferric etch. Heat gun will soften it a little, get into more nooks.
  7. I don't... lol. It's a stabilized pine cone scale set. My first thought was to make the scales smaller than the tang- to leave the pattern exposed & visible. It's uncomfortable to hold, and the pinecone is very brittle where exposed. It cracked, and I didn't like the way it felt in hand- so I have yet to decide what's going on it. This was my first hand hammered damascus blade. Plan on keeping it for myself, so I'm watching for something else I like for it!
  8. Jaro hit it on the head. But, here's my take on it... If you get a good, proper forge weld- any side of the knife can be the edge... the only reason it matters then, is cosmetic. At that point- it's all solid steel. Generally- in a plain stack pattern, or a layered setup like San mai, or go mai... you use the edge of the stack after you forge weld them together and draw out flat. This puts the layers parallel with your cutting edge. When ground through, the contrast is revealed in the sides of the blade. Different patterns, especially more c
  9. My forge splutters a bit at low temps... but when it warms up it evens out. Maybe yours will as well when she gets up to heat. Mine's not a ribbon burner though.?
  10. I lurk alot lately, haven't posted much- because I haven't touched a blade in a couple months. Life's thrown a monkey wrench in my forge time, it's getting cold here in the midwest- which I hate with a passion. And work has been crazy lately... last couple days this past week has been 0700 morning to 2130 or 2200 at night. Long days.
  11. I replaced many over the years as a HVAC tech on furnaces, compressor units etc. I've recently replaced dual capacitors on an air compressor setup. I'm not saying it's smart, or proper... but I have never discharged, or waited for one to dissipate. Using insulated wire pliers- I just pull one lead at a time from the capacitor while it's still mounted. - take note of which wires go where... Tape across the body of capacitor with electrical tape- covering terminals without touching them. Pull body from mount, insert new- an
  12. Only critique I got- I dont own it. That finished out nicely!
  13. ^ they're correct about venting. I used to work in an aluminum foundry where we cast large aluminum intake manifolds. And other parts. V8 manifolds had a vent tube on each runner end on the intake. Usually these were just 1/4" to 3/8" diameter or so. Even with a large pour hole- once the molten metal fills the hole- there has to be a place for it to push the air and steam out of the mold, or it can/will vacuum lock the metal in the mold- and cool... causing incomplete pours. Our hunter sand casting machine molds had rods coming out to make the
  14. In my experience- yes. I have a graphtec 24" vinyl plotter. I've used it a couple times as etching masks. I use automotive/sign grade vinyl. I've also done sandblasting, and cerakoting with it with a "high temp" vinyl.
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