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Welsh joel

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Everything posted by Welsh joel

  1. Works for me! (As glamor shots) Like the lines on that profile alot.
  2. I think you're talking about forge welding a pattern welded billet- aka damascus. I'm gonna go out on a limb, and say not very likely with that John. Not trying to be rude... As that was my goal for some time (damascus), I started with ceramic wool and a large area forge with a 2" dual forced air burner... I could not get forge welding temperatures no matter what I tried. There's a good reason, like jerrod mentioned... that things are done a certain way. They work. I get the cancer remark- which is why I "preach" about having the woo
  3. You know whats its adjustable to? You want a 0-30 psi regulator for forge use generally. I use a forced air burner, runs normally around 6psi or so. But to forge weld, I open it up to 10 or 12 psi.
  4. Two things I can think of right off the bat other than the brick- I ran a brick for a floor for a long time- but mine was half that thick. It took ten or more minutes... but I'd have that brick glowing orange/yellow. Try a coating in your forge. Itc is an IR coat thats rated to 5,000 °. It reflects heat back into your forge. Its a little pricey- but it'll help. I just re-lined my forge with last coat of this today.... Second- whats your regulator running at? You're getting a blue steady flame coming out in one of your pics. Venturi burner, or forced air? You might not
  5. Spent the day yesterday with a headache... but got some more refractory in the forge. Now, just the ITC flame face to go. But today I went out and got to work on cleaning up my mess I've made the last few months. Made the scrap metal guy happy... quit holding onto some junk i had piled up.
  6. Unfortunately- Nothing more than hearing it multiple times from older smiths- in person and online.
  7. The old saying is- "forge to a nickle, grind to a dime" Meaning your edge should be around the thickness of a nickle off the anvil, ground to a minimum of a dime thickness before heat treating.
  8. I just got my second pattern weld to stick... So, I get it! And I think it came out awesome, good deal man. Waiting to see what the blade looks like when done.
  9. Just a note Derrick- ive seen a few forges sold that come with ceramic wool thats rigidized... but they don't coat it with refractory. If the ceramic wool in your forge is not completely coated with refractory yet- don't use it. It'll work- you can get steel hot. But the open ceramic fibers will eventually kill you with repeated use.
  10. Semper fi marine! Welcome aboard.
  11. Decent profile... Long enough tang to work into whatever you want.... Hands dirty from doing the work yourself.... Only criticism I have- it ain't done yet?
  12. I made one with just a oxy acetylene torch once. I had made a cattle brand from scratch for a friend. Just heated it slowly, little at a time and free hand shaped it as I went.
  13. I got mine from amazon- 0-30 psi with a 12ft stainless braided wrapped hose. Works well for me.
  14. Well done! Thats a pretty cool family piece. Now- your grandkids may have a chance at their turn.
  15. Did some stock removal toys for a friend who likes a certain dc character.
  16. Well, I've owned a wire welder for twenty years. Worked as a fabricator/mechanic, autobody, and now - sign shop fabrication. Just to give you an idea. You're not burning in and penetrating the metal enough. The head of your welding end- or "stinger" as I call it... should be no more than 3/8" to 1/2" off the welding surface at all times. Tilt to the side so you can see the wire hit the metal. If you're having problems keeping it there- like it bounces off... slow down your wire feed speed til you can keep it steady. If the wire burns up too fast,
  17. What are you using to weld with? Somethings wrong... Show me a closer shot of your weld joint, tell me what you're using- gas, or flux core, wire size, welder etc. See if we can give you tips. Just judging from what I can see- your amperage/voltage is too low. Your gas flow is too low not enough shielding... something.
  18. I look at kind of the "flipside" of that too. It was one of the things that led to me leaving the IFI forumn. The eventual disappearance of forging altogether- on a non-industrial level. Thirty years ago, 60 years ago... you'd have to find somebody to apprentice to. You'd have to scrounge and look for tools to use in your home- vs ordering them off Amazon. Times have changed. People have changed. Many at the IFI site looked down on the new guy coming in and asking a "newbie" question without doing his or her "fair" amount of research or reading.
  19. It took me awhile to get the nerve to try it myself, I've only been really smithing anything for six or seven months now. Have alot of metal fabricating experience though. I asked alot of questions, watched many videos and read many posts before I got my first good forge weld. But I have since learned, and found that 52100, and 5160 spring steel are kind of finicky with forge welding. My very first try was both of those exact metals together- with little success. I still keep the failed piece to look back on and make myself be sure that my metals are cleane
  20. I did the exact thing they're talking about with mine. Too big, too much fire in the beginning. My forge was probably pretty close to that tank in size at first. But I built it out of an old water tank. I wasn't getting anywhere near forge welding temps. The guys on IFI gave me some good advice, frosty in particular. Cut in half lengthwise, reduced my interior volume- and dropped to a single blown burner with a 1" mixture tube instead of 2" all the way in. Difference was night and day. Before and after. And my recent attempt a
  21. You could also forge weld a bit of known steel into where the axe edge area will be...
  22. You can also just cut out your design, and use some spray adhesive glue to stick the paper right to the steel. 3m makes some good strong spray, its sticky as hell and a pain to clean up sometimes. But after you've cut your blade profile, drop the blade in some acetone and the glue & paper come right off.
  23. The way I was told/taught- Your burner heats your forge, not the metal. The burner heats the forge, the forge retains the heat- and transfers it to the metal evenly. Getting rid of that brick, and getting a lining that will hold it, and hold up to it- will let you get a more efficient burner that will get you up there. Mines a 1" forced air burner fed by 2" air pipe and a 3/8" gas pipe with a 1/16 orifice hole- i have $45-50 in it from the hardware store... not including the free blower(s) i was given. Forced air setups are more forgiving of
  24. Thats gotten nowhere near forge welding temps... the others have already covered your forge- So, did you weld all the way around your stack? I'm having a hard time seeing the edge in your pics. If so, and its welded well- all the way round... I'd say you're good. Save it til you can get it hot enough. There should be no forge scale built up in it. If its just tack welded in spots- cut thru the tacks with a cutoff wheel, seperate the stack and clean em up with a sander back to bare metal. Weld it back up- spray down with wd40, set in a can/jar of ke
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