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Welsh joel

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Everything posted by Welsh joel

  1. Amazon has multiple choices for sale. I searched " 6" gas strut" and came up with several pages. You can choose pressure in poundage as well.
  2. I would be interested in a more detailed overall photo, especially the front door. Just from that, I found several pictures similiar online. Johnson gas makes several kinds of ovens/forges/heaters... and is still in business 100+ years later. You could definately contact them, and learn more about it. Especially how it was originally configured, and what it was made to do/ handle. https://www.johnsongas.com/product-category/industrial-furnaces/forge-furnaces/
  3. I made mine from an old, un used 1/4 sized oxygen tank from a torch rig. Removed the valve after leaving it open for several days. Then filled it with water, poured it out before cutting the top off with a cutoff wheel. It gives me a 6" diameter by 24" or so vertical depth. I welded on legs, and handles to stabilize and move it.
  4. Not knowing where you're at- harbor freight sells this for $199. We have a similiar one that I use all the time at work to cut .040, and .063 aluminum coil stock. Works easily for that, without a whole lot of distortion. Ours would easily handle 8" wide materials. Unknown about a tempered steel in that Guage, but...??? Edit- sorry, typing as you posted above.
  5. Making your first blade- and having the knowledge & experience... (heat treating, etc.) can be two different things. And without knowing that/your level of experience- Until you get some more practice in, 1080 series steel is a very good starting point. It's much more forgiving for a home smith to heat treat. I'm only a couple years into forging myself- and am still always reading & researching... learning. You seem to have pretty decent tool and use experience- easily seen in your work. Make a few more, screw several up, and
  6. Why? I kinda like the lines and esthetic of it. The only thing I'd suggest is maybe a bit larger guard to keep hands from slipping up on blade? I like it as is.
  7. No pictures yet... But got out in the forge for the first time in months. Got the "scrapmascus" blade I made last summer- ground & profiled, with a quick test etch... just to see what happens when you forge weld 30-40 some 3/8" x 2" pieces of scraps together. Wound up grinding most of it off, lost alot to scale.
  8. Simple clean lines, pinned & layered handle, jimping pretty even and clean... Very respectable first effort. Go ahead and pick up the hardenable steel to start scratching the itch to "make it right". You got this. The only crazy reaction? Omg- you sure you had enough epoxy on there? Think you missed a spot! You did a hell of a clean up effort on that sander. Very clean look.
  9. I've seen rosewood mentioned already... but I'll add purpleheart wood to the list. It ranges in color from a dark, almost black purple- to a light blonde almost lilac color. It's my favorite, it's an extremely dense hard wood that will actually polish to a shiny surface just on its own. It's another of those irritating, make you sick, dust woods as well. Sigh...
  10. I really like the lower layer blades. Job well done!
  11. Clean with acetone BEFORE grinding or sanding. You can actually- possibly push oils deeper into the metal by grinding it. I take a tray, fill it with enough acetone to cover my steels. Then I soak them in it, wipe down with a paper towel while in acetone to disturb the surface. Then I'll take a piece at a time- sand the surface, and if cool enough, return it to the acetone bath. Paper between the layers? No... I've never heard of this, and from my viewpoint- by clamping it in the vise and welding this way- you'd trap the paper in a place so tight... it might not burn o
  12. What about de-greasing? You didn't mention it, so I ask. Before grinding, did you wipe/soak in acetone or something to remove any oils? If not, you may have actually ground them into the steel, contaminated the belt. Just a thought.
  13. Lol... skill, and temperature. Still cold and broke at my house!
  14. Aha! Thank you sir for that. I read through several of the threads, such as the cubic inch, some of the earlier ones... and was trying to determine if it was a friendly competition, a charity type situation, or ...? Lol. Someday perhaps, I'll get to join in!
  15. Every one completed is another thing learned from! looking great so far for #2.
  16. As a newer member- I've searched, and found multiple KITH threads... found some awesome work. But I've been unsuccessful in finding exactly what the KITH is about. What it stands for, etc. I'm guessing It stands for Knife In The Hand ? Can somebody explain the parameters and idea behind it for us newbies?
  17. My friend built mine for me, but he made the whole head assembly tilt. The motor mount is on the top portion too. So everything goes left 90 degrees.
  18. Next try- don't draw it out. I used a 1095 core, copper sheets, and 1095 outer slabs on mine. I kept my blade within the length of 1095 stock I had- 7-8" or so? Then did the perimeter weld, the setup etc... but I just did lighter taps to "set" the overall thickness with the copper. That way- I could keep the temperatures lower, and not have to focus on drawing to length. It already has it for a shorter blade. I like the multiple copper layers in yours- my next cu mai attempt is gonna be a few more.
  19. Message understood... But, I do sign work every day. I can be in a bucket truck in the rain one day, or crawling in a roof the next doing electrical repairs. My tool bag gets wet all the time. Keeping them clean and serviceable is a constant chore. Hand flangers/seamers that I use all the time... are rusty on the outside. I clean them weekly... Which just enforced/proved your point. Hmmmm...
  20. Do the sheath like a katana? Cut it down the center, and carve out the blade channel keeping it aligned- so the wood grain matches back up. Glue it back together, shape it, and use the horn piece as the top of the sheath. If you get it just right, the sheath diameter could be just a hair bigger than the handle.
  21. Some cleanup, and got an electric stove that was given me- moved into the shed. It'll be a heat source, and tempering oven as soon as I get a circuit breaker in that will handle it.
  22. I've thought about it myself- but the reasons you stated are what hold me back. For a display, or a shelf queen... it'd be perfect. Cerakote is durable, but still will scratch. The upside- my EDC pistol has been coated for 5 years? Still no rust on the slide. Which three years in- was the reason for coating it. Definately scratched off.
  23. Something I've done is used sticker vinyl. Wrapped it like a tape, overlapping around the handle. Tight and overlapping- it's waterproof enough for ferric etch. Heat gun will soften it a little, get into more nooks.
  24. I don't... lol. It's a stabilized pine cone scale set. My first thought was to make the scales smaller than the tang- to leave the pattern exposed & visible. It's uncomfortable to hold, and the pinecone is very brittle where exposed. It cracked, and I didn't like the way it felt in hand- so I have yet to decide what's going on it. This was my first hand hammered damascus blade. Plan on keeping it for myself, so I'm watching for something else I like for it!
  25. Jaro hit it on the head. But, here's my take on it... If you get a good, proper forge weld- any side of the knife can be the edge... the only reason it matters then, is cosmetic. At that point- it's all solid steel. Generally- in a plain stack pattern, or a layered setup like San mai, or go mai... you use the edge of the stack after you forge weld them together and draw out flat. This puts the layers parallel with your cutting edge. When ground through, the contrast is revealed in the sides of the blade. Different patterns, especially more c
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