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John Bumbino

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  1. Hey Dan, I looked into it a bit and that's exactly what I found. Blown burner has become an option! Thank you sirs. Headed out to pour some cement for the new barn. John
  2. Dan, And if I were to seriously consider the big K, I'd need a big fan. In fact Big Ass Fans is mfg right up the road here about 40 minutes. lol. Joking aside I would only work with it behind a sucking fan then throw away painters suit i'd be wearing. Id make sure that even in winter here I had the exhaust fan pulling hard in the forge barn. Just scares the shit out of me. Man alive you can't see the enemy and it's real. Glad you didn't say they found something else... Dude. You blow glass? That's awesome! I've always been intrigued by the art, but just never got into it. I'll tune into youtube and see what folks are creating. While i'll likely never really get into it, I do have some equipment here now, maybe i'll give it a shot some day.
  3. Hey Joel, Yeah I just couldn't think of the names. I'm absolutely whooped working on this barn. I want to build forced air but worry about power outages as we have them here regularly. So I'd have to incorporate some type of electric fuel switch that closes on loss type of thing. Then if the power goes out in the middle of a run i'm gonna lose my mind. I know the chances are super slim but still.. I'm not knocking anyone for using anything. If you're comfortable with material, risk and maintenance go for it. Really. I know the black and white here tends to drop the tone from the conversation. I'm not being snarky in any way. If I blow up it's done pretty quick. If I get a crack in my kwool sealer, dont notice it (which I likely wouldn't) I could catch the big C and suffer to death for the rest of my life. lol Best, John
  4. Hey Dan, As soon as i get into welding and hammering I'm sure I'll build an auto hammer. City folks are gonna love it when they come up for some r&r. lol. I picked up this k type and matching IC years ago for my BBQ. Was gonna trick it out with push buttons, bluetooth, tft lcds, blowers n stuff. Then everyone started getting these electric traggers with pellet feed and i'm just like maaaan I changed my mind, I can't do it. I'm gonna continue as I've been for 10 years standing for 12 hours at a time in front of my offset wood burner. lol. Anyways - I priced some of them other type thermocouples and they aren't bad but i've got some work to do figuring out a new integrated circuit/chip and all of that. This was bing bang boom. I wrote like 20 lines. I have seen a good many venturis with cans like that around them. Figured that's what they were there for so I used some tinfoil on the fly and it stopped all that nonsense. So I need walls! I should have a barn by the end of the week. Maybe by the end of next week, but i will have a barn! I did make some forms and packed with refractory for use as doors. I use them when running and they work. A bit crumbly with all the handling but they're holding up. Once the doors are in place, the back hole about 2/3 closed and covers over venturis it runs well, but does still act up a little at times. Like the flame will occasionally "go hallow". The outer part is there but the blue tail is completely gone. Sometimes seems like air, sometimes like fuel, sometimes like wtf? Really thinking walls will help and only then will I really know how she's running. Best, John
  5. Hi Jerrod, I certainly appreciate the feedback. I should have prefaced with first not last forge. Also that I'm highly allergic to cancer and want nothing at all to do with kwool. I'll pay extra for propane the rest of my life to avoid that stuff. My reason for 1650 is that I have 14tons of steel that likes HT at 1650. I would love to do some stack welding stuff and this might do the trick. This all really came on quick for me. Like for example.. I just dug 25 post holes today for my new forge house/pole barn. Lots of pokers in the fire so to speak. lol. For efficiency it really could be a better, but I run at full blast for 30 minutes before the steel shell gets warm. My next will be of super thick hard fire brick and it'll be square. That tube was a pain in the ass. Best, John
  6. Hello All, So I have completed my first propane forge build and it's running pretty well i'd say. I haven't been able to run very much though due to weather conditions. I have it set up under my BBQ shack which has no walls. I do believe the wind is causing strange behavior in the burner. When it's not breezy it runs great. So I began the process of building a small forge house/barn. I nearly broke my back moving cement. Oh boy so the ER was 5/3. Today I'm ready to get back to building but I live in the swamp and it's been raining for nearly a week straight. Super bummer! I have a few blades I was working on and cant wait to get back at it. I've obviously welded two 20lb propane tanks together and filled it with compactable refractory cement that I made from portland cement, sand, vermiculite and perlite. It's just about 2.25" thick. I have run several times for about an hour each time. I have a very small amount of cracking. The cracks are very small and do not seem to be causing a problem but I'll likely get them sealed up anyways here pretty soon. Thank you for looking. So what do ya'll think of my first forge?! Also, while I've been healing up here I've also been working on a little circuit build for a temp sensor. I'm using an ATMEGA328P chip and a MAX6675 chip with a K-Type thermocouple. I still have to make the schematic, draw up the board in eagle cad then export my gcode. I'll carve the circuit board on my CNC but dang it I completely forgot that I have recently upgraded my spindle motor so my 1/8" bits no longer fit as my new collet is 1/4". Waiting on a new one from Toledo. Should be here in a few days. I haven't looked into the cost of a digital temp sensor for kilns and forges but I'm guessing they're costly. I have about $5 wrapped up in this plus a few hours of figuring and programming. The rest will take the most time. The thermocouple and related MAX6675 chip are capable of readings up to about 1900°F. I need to be in the neighborhood of 1650°F so it should be perfect. John
  7. Hey Ted, I have just about every width it seems from 1.5 through 4.1. Just a quick list 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.9, 2.1, 2.2, 2.25 etc... There are three pages now of product. Each one is a different size. Now that we're getting into some nice weather I should be adding more soon. Best, John P.S. Just finished up my propane forge! Should be baking blades in no time!
  8. I see that and I thank you sir. So far the only documentation isn't really documentation at all. I have received advice on HT from Peters heat treat in meadville pa and feedback from a bladesmith who conducted extensive testing on 2.94" x 0.122" material. The basics (also listed on the website) soak around 1650° from 15 to 20 minutes depending on thickness. Quench in Parks 50 on the cooler end of room temp. I don't plan on it. The shop where it comes from uses only 6150 for their parts. Thanks, John
  9. My first blade totally from scratch. Thanks to all for the tips! Blade is of course 6150. The handle is made of oak i get in large blocks from a local mill. Brass rods are just 1/8" (ordering larger this is all home depot has) getting 1/4 from onlinemetals dot com. Great prices there! Anyways I also used loctite epoxy under the wood. Sanded and polished. Super smooth and super sharp!
  10. You know, i was gonna ask that. I was pretty sure it was the same thing. It sure looked the same. Then i figured I'd rather look into it myself and completely forgot. Thank you!
  11. All great ideas here gentlemen. Thank you. Ted. That's just what I was hoping for. I'm really going to have to pick up some of that layout fluid. That laser toner trick works with heat as well. Any clothes iron set to low/med takes about 20 seconds to transfer onto copper circuit boards. I used to use this method for etching before I built my cnc mill. I'm sure it will work on steel as well. I really was trying to keep the computer out of this one, but here i am anyways. So I can scan my drawings into the computer, probably bring them into photoshop to tighten them up a bit and come out with clean bold lines to print. Transfer that to the steel and away I go. Just need to nail down the best method for the transfer. I've had acetone completely destroy transfers in the past. Thanks again! I'm off to help with a water heater situation and then and only then can i finally fire up my new mini coal forge. Just built her yesterday. I'll post some pictures later this evening provided I remember. Best, John
  12. Is blue tack the same as the blue layout fluid ted mentioned? I like the connect the dots idea, but i really like the use the blue sort of a negative carbon paper effect if that'd be possible. Sort of coat the steel with it. Place my paper over that. Trace the lines with a pen or pencil and have that pressure lift off the blue coat. Thanks a ton! This is really good stuff here. Took about 20 hours to come up with the razor idea.
  13. I really like that design. especially in blue! I was trying to transfer directly from the paper. My scribe obviously just tore the paper. Then a stroke of genius! Taped paper to steel and used a new razor blade. It worked but I would like something better. I might look into this layout fluid. Thanks Ted!
  14. Hello All. Not sure how many of you use a design drawn on steel but that's at least how i'm starting out. I have a drawing on paper. I've tried pencil on steel - no go. I've tried carbon paper onto steel - no go. I'm not a freehand kinda guy. How do I get my design from paper onto steel? Thank You. John
  15. Are the blade tongs still available? 2021 Price?
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