Jump to content

dracozny

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    171
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About dracozny

  • Birthday 09/06/1980

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    dracozny@email.com
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    40486466

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lebanon, Oregon
  • Interests
    Swords [eastern (japanese & chinese) and western (european)]<br />mid evil europe weapons and armor and just about everything else in that era.<br /> <br />exotic knives and fantasy weapons<br /><br />cars, guns, science, computer technology, LINUX and ofcourse, My Wife Carrie and Little girl Sarah
  1. WVO is used an numerous products such as makeup, and it has been very valuable. only recently have the waste oil companies started paying the restaurants due to the competition with the biodiesel craze. it may be different in other areas but thats my understanding of things here in Oregon
  2. Thanks for the replies, I will give it a shot on my weekend, or if I get off work early enough
  3. well after a very long time away from the shop I finally got my anvil and my forge parked out in the backyard, hopefully I can get a canopy or something over it. I picked up the last blade I was working on and noticed one hell of a twist on the edge. I figured a little bit of heat and some tapping on the edge would straighten it out unfortunately after burning out the propane and whacking the blade in a dozen crazy directions to try to allevitate this crazy twist I ended up back where I started with the exact smae twist on the last 5 inches of the blade toward the tip. not the start I was hoping for with getting back into the swing of things. basically the blade is about 17" over all 12" of it with and edge around the halfway point it twists to the left. but its only along the edge the rest of the blade is totally straight. any recommendations?
  4. my best recommendation for use of old propane cylinders is: 1: make sure it is empty 2: remove the valve 3: fill with water and let it set for a bit afterwards you can cut into them safely
  5. only thought I have is if your injector is moveable try sliding it further in or out of venturi to see if it wil pick up some pressure
  6. This is a subject that comes up often, in order to do what you propose you need to get both faces up to welding heat, as a result you will have to temper the face, and I must say its one thing to have a few pounds of hot steel bieng pounded on its quite another to have 100+ lbs. the pieces you have I would recomend using them when you build a power hammer. It would be in your best interest to purchase a good quality anvil. or you could use one of the pieces you have and bolt it in place if you need the larger working surface right away. as far as your other solutions yes they would work but the extra slab underneith will provide nothing to you as far as rebound, it will act more like a shock absorber reducing your efforts.
  7. FYI those penny crunching machines you see in tourist spots are gov sanctioned, the 50 cents you pay to crunch the penny partly goes to the US mint to fund making replacement coins.
  8. Definately going to, I was thinking maybe later down the road converting the post into a treadle hammer or something, Time will tell. as you can see with where it is located now, my shop is nonexistent since I moved into this house last year, and the tax man has not been kind either. as soon as the funding issue is resolved I will get this baby a propper home and put it to work
  9. By Goly I think your right, after seeing a picture and comparing it to waht I can make out on Mine, I would say you are correct. Thanks for the info.
  10. My Moms's fiancee, knows how interested I am in making knives and even though he sought for years of getting one for himself, he realized that he would not be able to use it and it sat around his shop for a considerable amount of time. I am sure the added weight in his van hauling it across the state of california to Oregon wasnt exactly fuel economy but much apreciated none the less. here is my photo of the new anvil on the left, my post anvil on the right. the post is 130 lbs, the anvil is 174 lbs. unfortunately the manufacturers marking are very warn out the only thing I can make out is an arm with a hammer, and the word man at the top right of the crest. The weight is printed fairly well, I can easily make out the 17 but the 4 is a bit obscure.
  11. although the two devices have a similar concept they come from two different aproaches (based on what I can read from the description and the video) the first one is claimed to function on a form of electrolisis. where as the other functions on a plasma principle preheating the water into a vapor state and then ignited in a plasma jet. or did I miss something? 8000°C is still a wowser. cutting steel ok although given that you are using water I'm not sure forging or welding is a good idea.
  12. most of your grinding needs to be done before you start hardening, just the finishing to be done after and with a belt grinder you really need to watch the temps, I usually hand polish, if you are getting alot of scale build up during the HT then you have too much Oxygen in the forge. Some tool steels are extremely difficult because of that, try tossing some wood chunks in to use up the excess. cracks are usually due to cooling too quickly, sometimes from too high a temp. you may consider using a hot oil quench instead. you could try HT and quench in salts but that is deffinately not for the faint at heart and has many risks envolved. if you dont pay close attention to the moisture content BOOM....... as far as hamons go I can't say as I have yet to attempt it. Leaf spring steel, do a search in the forum and you may find the answer to the type of metal used. if it is some type of stainless (although I never heard of such for leafsprings) then you will not get a hamon. hope I got you going in the right direction
  13. I so wish that I could >:|
  14. I have looked about for other smiths to learn from but have not found many real close, I think the closest one I know of are in eugene and my work schedule makes that hard to do. recently at the strawberry festival in Lebanon I discovered a booth of leather sheethed knives with various antler handles and made a few inquiries aparently the guy running the booth lives in lyons but he just does leather work, however he told me there are a great many knife makers here in Lebanon and Albany they just don't get on the internet much. unfortunately my work schedule keeps me from going to the knife shows over the weekends as well
  15. I wear two different gloves usually a welders glove on the left and thin goatskin on the right it just makes my life easier going back and forth from forge to anvil. the goatskin are thin enough to get the feeling i need on most things yet thick enough to prevent blisters from any sort of work hammering, shoveling or whatever. I picked mine up on sale at wallmart in the garden section.
×
×
  • Create New...