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Bill Burke

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  1. the easiest way to do a convex grind is to first define the blade geometry by making many small hollow grinds. At first it is a little tricky but after a while this step goes very quickly. After the geomitry is set then go to the slack belt area of your grinder and blend all the ridges and hollows together to get a smooth convex. If you press too hard here you will round the spine and edge too much. I do the privious steps with a 36 and 60 grit belt. When I am happy I then move up in grits ending with an x16 norax belt. after this polish/buff then etch and polish again. you're done. A rotary platen makes the blending and polishing a little easier but in no way is it neccessary to get a good convex shape.
  2. 52100 is my favorite steel and I use it for most of my knives. What you want to do is possible but it is not real easy. The best/easiest way to get a 52100 edge on a billet of damascus is to do a san mai type contruction. you can either wrap the damascus around the 52100 or just make a sandwich with the damascus on the outside of the 52100. be sure to thermal cycle and Thoroughly normalize. I have not experianced any problem welding, forging or heat treating using 52100 combined with 410,416 and 316 stainless, wrought iron, my own tamahagane and quite a few conbinations of damascus.
  3. Geoff, you need to find another arbor that fits your spindle. you make the arm so that it clamps to the outside of the spindle where the stone guard clamps. Then use your wheel of choice, and put it on the spindle hub and tighten everything down. put a file on the chuck and turn on the magnet and run the wheel back and forth across the magnet until the wheel is true. figure out what you are going to do on the top for a tracking wheel. when you want to go back to a stone take off the hub with the wheel on it off and put on the new hub and then mount the stone and dress it and grind away. then just switch out the hubs with the wheel or stone to what you need.
  4. Don, It is my understanding that there is a pallet of five gallon buckets on the way. He is waiting for it to arrive so that he knows what shipping is going to cost to get the oil to him before he sets prices to us. It has taken him at least six months to get this all figured out and agreed to by heatbath.
  5. Finally there will be a place in the western US where we can get these two oils without mess or fuss. I just returned from having lunch with Kelly Cupples and have found out that he will be a stocking distributor for Parks 50 and AAA quenching oils. I do not have prices at present. Oil wil be availible in five gallon buckets.
  6. I have had this problem and simply let the billet cool and soak in muriatic acid untill the scale on the outside of the billet is gone then heat flux and continue as normal. this works 99% of the time. as for the flourspar when it is heated it breaks down and creates hyrofloric acid and flourine gas. THIS IS SOMETHING TO STAY AWAY FROM.
  7. They are both castible refractories and very similar in appearance. neither one will out perform ITC as a heat reflector but both are better at resisting flux. I cannot tell any differance in their ability to resist flux and as a floor coating they work very well but are not as good an insulator as kaowool for forge bodies. One of the best working forges I have seen lately is made by Dave Lische in Seattle. He uses a 1 inch thick blanket of kaowool soaked in mizzou and moulded into the shell then uses a half brick for the floor, again coated in mizzou. With a single venturi burner it will reach welding temp easily and nearly melt steel.
  8. this can also hoppen from having an over abundace of flux present. Not only trapped inside the billet but between the billet and the anvil. when i was first learningto weld I have had it sound like a thirty eight going off.
  9. Skip I would like to see some kind of drawing or sketch also. I am having a problem visulizing the way that you are getting the volitile gasses into the outer shell so that they can burn and continue heating the inner chamber. Thanks
  10. Bill Burke

    Mixed results

    I wasn't knocking or being aggresive with my reply, I just wasn't sure if it was a serious post. If a billet were made by the suggested method then when the bevels were ground the inlayed material would be ground away and there would just be straight layers of steel. I do know how to make this pattern but made a promise to Devin that I would not reveal the proccess to anyone. Toby is very close to getting it right and if he wants to reveal his proccess the that is up to him, but I will not. Omalley, it was not my intention to offend you but as I pointed out your theroy will not work unless you can do it with very little grinding after you have have done the reweld.
  11. Bill Burke

    Mixed results

    If you are serious with this theory then you are way off base and most assuredly wrong.
  12. wow I get forgetting about the dial up guys. sorry
  13. Michael's Photos. Michael I hope you don't mind me putting the photos up so they can be easier viewed.
  14. Yeh I would also like to know some details on the furnace. I have somewhat of a shell but the linings I have been trying don't seem to be up to the task.
  15. there is a tutorial on Dons site. what urner did you get? a blown burner IS NOT NECCESSARY for welding. I weld routinely in a non blown forge.
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