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Jacob Christian

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    11
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About Jacob Christian

  • Birthday June 30

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Riverside, CA
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Microelectronics, Coding, Snowboarding, hunting

    IG: BesslenBladeworks

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  1. Sorry for the giant videos... I didnt see a way to make them smaller.
  2. Alright I did the quench last night and it seems that everything went well! I couldn't bring myself to heat my parks 50 to 180F because of oil degradation so I did a 3 sec interrupted quench into 130F plain tap water and then into room temp parks 50 to finish cooling off. The blade was kiln heated to 760C and left to soak for 15 minutes. It is interesting that you mentioned doing a test wedge because that is exactly what I did. I forged bevels on the wedge and treated the same way that I did the waki and it came out well. You can clearly see the hardening line as well as some woot
  3. Thanks! I need the luck, I would be extremely depressed to lose a wootz blade in a quench. Well Actually I have lost a small one in quench.... But it was a test and many things were wrong with that whole setup.
  4. Thanks for the reply Tim, I have read many of your posts about wootz and they have all been informative! I was worried about the manganese... So much so that I have developed a cleaner recipe where I can half the Mn content and clean up the extra Si by removing the cast. Pretty much the only reason I wanted to do a water quench was for the natural sori and more active hamon. I saw some other posts talking about using hot oil (180F) and that would still induce positive curvature. I have test etched and I believe that I got the cementite spherodized, test etches didnt reveal any den
  5. Hello All, I am working on a wootz Wakizashi and am about ready to heat treat. I normally make Japanese swords out of W2 and do an interrupted quench in warm water but I'm wondering if I might be better off going with oil. I started going over the chemical composition of my feed material and came up with a manganese content that seems slightly high. I guess with all of the work that it took to get here it shouldn't even be a question of whether I should use water or not but I have heard that water is the better way to go with wootz. If I did w
  6. Thanks for the welcome Alan. Glad to be a part of this group of knowledgeable people!
  7. Did you ever get your furnace rebuild completed?
  8. Thanks and congrats on your first post! Ive been making blades since 2011. I do it as a hobby and semi part time business. If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask me. I hit quite a few road blocks along the way lol.
  9. Thanks! Once I get the handle material I will post a picture of the finished blade.
  10. Hello all, Long time lurker, first time posting! I wanted to share with you the first blade that I forged from some crucible steel. I first found wootz about 8 months ago and instantly fell in love with the watered pattern, I had to make a knife. I watched tons of youtube videos, read research articles until my brain went numb and got lost on sketchy Russian/Ukrainian websites searching for bulat with google translate. In the end I followed pretty closely to what is outlined in the Verhoeven and Pendray research articles about wootz. However, I pulled significant amounts of inform
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