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Lucas Denton

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Posts posted by Lucas Denton

  1. When I first started forging some months ago I started banging on this piece of 1080 flatbar. I ended up working on it for a few hours before shelving it to try something else. I ran out of steel a few weeks ago and I started looking through my junk pile to see if anything was worth working on. I had forgotten about this piece and my first thought was “Why did I stop working on this??”

     

    So I have it somewhat completed now. I could clean up the dark spots on the spine but I really like it’s current weight and I’ll keep them to serve as a reminder to not stupidly hit the spine like that. All and all it’s a pretty strong blade. I know the tree in my back yard is not as big as a fan of it. 
    It was satisfying to work on, and I think a good starting point. I’m gonna call it a Guardless Gladius. 
     

     

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  2. I want to start forge welding flat bar over a coal forge. Is this gonna be possible? Any tips that might help? when I get home I can provide pictures of my equipment I just wanna know if anybody tried this and succeeded
     

  3. 1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Sounds like a rivet forge?  Pics would indeed help.  Leon has a good point about the amount of fuel in the forge, and I know with a rivet forge you can't really pile it on without some modifications.  Coal is also a lot more dense than charcoal, but you do still need a couple of inches of coal below the steel and an inch or more above it.  

     

    And as Charles said, more air equals more heat, but also more oxidation unless your fire is deep enough to handle it.

     

    Centaur's coal is decent stuff, but almost anywhere else will be cheaper.  I used my superpowers to look at your IP address to find out where you are (perhaps the most important thing to know when giving advice on where to get coal!), and it shows you near Cleveland, TN, is that right?  If so, you need to go join your local blacksmith's guild ASAP.  It's in Chattanooga, and meets on the first Thursday of every month: https://aacblacksmiths.org/event/choo-choo-forge-mtg/, or here https://www.facebook.com/choo.forge/ if you do Facebook (I don't).  They can hook you up with coal, equipment, and skill.  There's also a coalyard in Knoxville that does smithing coal, and a couple in western NC.  If you REALLY want the best price, there's a mine in SW Virginia that will sell you a dump truck full at the tipple, but you have to supply the truck.  Anywhere that sells it by the bag, expect $15-$20 per bag.  By the ton, about half that.

     

    That goes for everyone, really.  If you don't absolutely have to go it alone, join your local guild!  your skill level will increase far faster than it could with just watching videos.

    I had no idea! I will look into this immediately!

  4. I’ve been using a circular coal forge with an under attached blower to do my bladesmithing.  I was wondering if anyone had any tips on using coal. 
     

    I want to get the most out of it, so tips on burning coal for longer and hotter would be greatly appreciated, as well as any tips on just generally using a coal forge. Maybe there is something simple I could be doing that would change my bladesmithing for the better. 
     

    I use the black smithing coal from Centuar Forge primarily. It seems to work really well, but it is the only blacksmithing coal I’ve used. If anyone has any tips on getting better and cheaper coal from somewhere else, I would also really appreciate that as well. 

    Thank you for reading!

     

  5. 6 hours ago, Geoff Keyes said:

    Image result for knife edge geometry examples

    I stole this off the web, but it's a good place to start.  A hollow grind is like what you see on razors (an extreme example) but also on some factory knives whose names I won't mention.  A flat grind is the sort of thing you see on kitchen knives.  A saber (or noob) grind is usually seen in jig ground blades done on large stone wheels.  Chisel grinds are seen on chisels and some kinds of japanese knives.  Convex, or appleseed, grinds have thin edges with some mass behind the edge for strength.  Scandi grinds are not the best cutters, but make for good bushcraft tools.

    This is pretty generic, but is a useful jumping off place.

    Geoff

    Thank you so much for this! 

  6. That you for pointing that out Geoff, I appreciate the response!
    I hammered this knife into shape rather than cutting it out. As for the bevel, I actually don’t understand edge geometry that much. I used an angle grinder to clean the blade up but I used a 4x36 belt grinder to kinda bevel and sharpen the edge. 

  7. Hey everybody. I just started forging a few months ago and I’m loving it. I want to make bigger and bigger knives until I work up to swords. 
     

    This is my first somewhat completed knife. It’s made from 1080 flatbar and the handle is wrapped with rawhide and coated with epoxy. I know it’s ugly as all get out but it was a blast to make. 
     

    I just joined the forums because i am hoping to learn from you all. Bladesmithing is just a hobby for me but I want to continue and see where it takes me. To all those that read, thank you and I hope to get the chance to talk soon!

    0DF18CBF-9AE7-4658-8B87-C3DF4D604010.jpeg

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