Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


8 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. wow i never would have thought of that at all. Good tip right there.. gonna get that hammer done tomorrow.
  2. thanks a lot everyone. After checking again, the anvil seems to be at a good height. All of the hammer dents i believe are from me inadvertently striking with the edge of the hammer face sometimes. I’ll see about getting my hands on that book too
  3. Thank you.. yeah I’m trying to kill the hammer marks as they require so much grinding to remove. oo no i never dressed the hammer face, and it sounds like more practice is required too lol. Thanks as alway for the good advice. Leaving hammer dents has been a real painus in the anus.
  4. I don’t have a welder, so I’ve been sandwiching the knife steel between the anvil and a 2’ section of rr track, then wailing on the top of the track to flatten things. It does sorta work but it’s LOUD as hell. .. the only other thing i could think of is to grind the face flat on an old sledge hammer and use that. any suggestions to quiet it down, or maybe an alternative flatter that doesn’t require welding?
  5. Awesome Billy! My intent is all about the sharing and making it easier for the next person amd the next person
  6. Yeah I’ve got a 2x42 and a 4x36.. it’s what I’ve had for other things, mostly woodworking. I was thinking of using the 4x36 to flatten the faces since it’s easy to lay it flat. Might get too hot? the 2x42 i think runs at 4400fmp. I cut the top and back guards off to fit the ceramic belt. It worked but I’ve only used it once., so time will tell.
  7. Yeah billy.. you said it better than i did. Second nature to you guys were the words i was going for! So second nature that i don’t even think about it lol. But yeah.. now that I’ve got my mild steel source worked out I’ll be grinding like hell this week lol. Hmm.. now is it worth it to get many cheaper belts or less more expensive ones like a ceramic.
  8. Ya know.. I’m sure someone said this to me before but for some reason it just didn’t click. I can totally get tons on mild steel plates at my local store!.. it’ll cost about $2.50 per attempt. This is perfect!, I’m glad you mentioned it.. even though it should have been obvious but my head was too far down in the weeds to see anything.
  9. Been looking all over for some tips lol.. for starters this is seeming to help, which i suppose is something that y’all don’t even consider a tip but it is helping. Color the blade faces and edge with a wide tipped sharpie and use a metal vernier caliper to scratch two lines along the edge (the thickness i want to end up with), and also scratch a line say 3/4 way up the blade face, to guide the bevel height. The last knife i tried,, i ground sooo much that there’s almost nothing left near the bottom (next to where your index finger would rest on the handle),, and there’s a huge unsightly divot in the edge ..pfft.
  10. Yeah I’m digging the idea of cheap belts and scrap steel.. I’ve been using rr spikes to practice hammer work so far.. but I’m leaving some deep dents and i can never get the sides perfectly straight. I’ve been trying to use a jig but as Alan pointed out in a separate thread, the jig can compensate for the blade inconsistencies. So ya.. i think you’re spot kn and I’m going to freehand and file until i get used to it. That’s my fav part of the process so far anyway (grinding), it’s therapeutic.
  11. This was my second one.. I’m in no hurry. Do you file with a jig?, or just freehand. I’ve got a 2x42 grinder and a 4x36 grinder. I do have a decent set of mechanics files. Maybe I’ll try files next time
  12. Having a hell of a time getting in plunge lines and bevels to be even and not multifaceted. If steel and belts were free I’d use steel to practice i guess. I’m wondering if making wooden knives help with bevel grinding practice?
  13. I’m still figuring out the neutral settings but yes.. as i close off the air, the dark spot gets smaller and smaller and then goes away until the forge is one uniform color. I just wasn’t sure if this is what i should have been shooting for , or if that dark circle was normal. As the air gets chocked off and the dark circle goes away the sound of the forge goes from a roaring sound to a more mellow sound.. and I’d thought this meant that it was getting less hot .. i have no real reason for thinking that other than the loud roar must be better right ..lol. I know better now. When i fire it up again I’ll adjust it accordingly. I’ve got a k type thermocouple arriving in a couple weeks so that should also help in matching the color sound and heat temps. Thanks! Yes.. i remember that as fiddles with it and the blast got softer, the spot blended into a red/orange.. just wasn’t sure if this is what i wanted. The flames out the front should be licking up, correct?.. rather than blasting out like the backside of a jet engine?
  14. Right where the burner flame hits the refractory/forge liner, there’s a dark circle about an inch or two in diameter. Outside of that circle, everything is red/orange but within that circle it is a noticeably darker grayish blacker color. When i fiddle with the air or gas the circle either shrinks or expands and may get darker or disappear as it becomes the same color as the surrounding material. should i be trying to get that dark spot? Or should i try to get it red, like the rest of the forge? What is causing this?
  15. Yeah.. after seeing the difference that lighting makes, I’ll probably only do it at dusk from now on.
  • Create New...