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  1. Any benefit to using a Harris flow regulator for propane? I have the opportunity to get one for fairly cheap.
  2. This actually doesnt sound bad. That said my probe isn’t permanently mounted i can take it out and i have a plug i plan on putting in the hole. I figured i would only use the probe when i need to semi accurately know what the temp of my forge is. But i see the benefit in what you do. I will end up getting a long probe as well. Would be beneficial to know temps at the material as well. At least until i get enough experience to be able to look at a piece and know the temp.
  3. Right this was my thought. Plus im not wanting to know how hot the flame is. I want to know how hot my forge is getting.
  4. So watching my forge heat up it heats fairy evenly. So it got me thinking the flame from my ribbon burner shoots down and whips up the sides. So having the probe up higher and out of the flame made sense. Just not sure how far in to have the tip. Im sorry to hear that man. Medical issues suck for sure. My wife does a good job of keeping me focused on things. So q we as long as she is around things shouldnt get forgotten about lol.
  5. Ok quick question about these k type thermocouples. Where at in the forge should the tip be? Like just right inside like in the picture or should it further inside? My thought was i want to get the temp of the forge and not the temp of the flame. Oh and i know its hard to see but the little hole is where the thermocouple is. Also im happy to report that my forge gets to 2300 degrees and was still climbing but being as the thermocouple says 2300f max i started to turn her down. Now im trying to learn what settings are needed to hold different temps. Which brings another question. When just forging and not welding what temp do most hold their forge at? I was thinking 1900-2000.
  6. I mean truth be told im putting some other things on the back burner while i am getting all this up and going.
  7. Alrighty so i changed a few things around finished the stand put some heavy duty casters rated for 250lb on the stand so i can wheel my forge around when NOT in use. Changed the door from that crappy steel door, that i thought was a cool idea in the beginning but wasnt, to firebrick. Added a support for my piping so its not putting pressure on my burner and forge lining. Added hole for thermocouple for when i want to use it. All in all im fairly impressed with myself. what does everyone think? How did i do? anvil is ordered waiting on it to get here then its off to the races! oh and excuse the mess please. We bought this house like 3 months ago and are still getting organized and moved in.
  8. Oh yeah i know im gonna fail. But i have access to all the 5160 steel i could ever want for free. Thats prolly what i will practice with for a while. I know the first time ever forging anything i tried to weld some bandsaw blades together. Cleaned em up welded the sides and ends together fluxed with borax used the forge at my work which doesnt get hot enough. At the time i didnt know this and i tried 4 times on 4 separate stacks of band saw blade i was frustrated for sure but its all a learning experience. Thats feather pattern is beautiful! i got a few more things i gotta get before i start moving metal. Anvil prolly gonna buy a vevor. And i gotta finished getting my pieces and build my grinder. Im building the revolution.
  9. Thanks for all the info guys definitely appreciated. I put the metrikote on this morning let it dry then fired it up. I did what Joel recommended put a piece of bandsaw blade thinest stuff i have currently. The sharp square cut ends definitely are not sharp square ends anymore. Plus it got really thin in an area which means i burnt the metal. So welding temps achieved. It took about 10 minutes for the forge to get to that temp.
  10. Ok fair enough i will not use them as a floor thank you. Good info to know. I think i remember reading that somewhere else. Is it the soft bricks that are super brittle that dont act like heat sinks?
  11. yeah i want to do a thermocouple setup for sure. I will look for the threads. Thank you for that. I know colors looks different to everyone so it makes it difficult for sure. I will try the borax i have plenty of it on hand. I still need to put the metrikote on. Thats gonna happen tonight maybe. I can get 4.5x8x1 firebricks for free, they are the heavy ones not the super light fragile ones, so i figured since they are free i will use them as a floor in my forge just need to level the forge floor out a bit more. So the metrikote may wait until after i do that.
  12. Alrighty hole is drilled takes care of the pulse jet engine sound. But a new problem came up. I dont think this blower is sufficient. I purchased the green amazon blower that Wayne links to on his site. With gate valve all the way open i can only open my needle valve about a 1/4 of a turn. The way i understand it is the proper settings will not produce “dragons breath”. So granted im still learning heat levels in steel and comparing to a color chart i think its in the 2200-2300 degrees. Maybe less. Granted its super thin but i threw a piece of band saw blade in there while it was running. It got to that orange-gy yellow but more yellow than orange color quick but just kind of stayed there. I know my burner is 8”x3” instead of the 6”x3” thats shown on waynes sites also my burner has 29 holes in it which is not a whole bunch more than a 6”. i want to be able to reach welding temp obviously and ive read thats described as a brilliant yellow almost white and the steel will like smoke when pulled out of the forge and also spark. So is this an issue with my blower not providing enough pressure? If so what are some other options for blowers that are not super expensive. I saw one the other day that was $800 thats way to much.
  13. Ok i will drill a hole with a hole saw then. The thing starts to sound almost like a pulse jet engine when you really crank it up.
  14. yet another update here. Fired it up again to get it hotter this morning. The one thing i didnt do that i now feel like i should of done is put an opening in the rear of the forge. Once i turn up the air and the gas it starts to sound like a jet engine and as shown by the picture the rear of the forge doesnt heat evenly with rest of the forge. not sure how i can put an opening in it now that the castable has cured. But my flame is stable and she gets hot quick! IMG_3549.MOV
  15. Small update the union with the street elbow solved the issue. Nice and steady burn now. Tonight was the 3rd heat. I drilled some small weep holes in the bottom of the forge and let her run for about 5 minutes floor of the forge was a dull red shut of forge could see steam escaping. Gonna let it cool and check for cracks and such tomorrow morning.
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