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  1. Thanks. I measured 0.45" increase in diameter for one inch down the flare. Rich
  2. I was planning to cut the length of the flare but I need to decide first if there needs to be a gap between the main tube and the start of the flare. Many pictures have seen don't have one, but some do. Rich
  3. Thanks guys. I think some of the fun is working out a design and understanding why it works. Rich
  4. I assume that this is the proper shaped flare. Next question, if you guys don't mind, is: How big is the gap supposed to be between the start of the flare and the main tube? I heard it was in the neighborhood of 1/8 inch. Thanks, Rich
  5. Thanks for all of your advice. Rich
  6. Sorry, I used pre-completion measurements and had a typo on the volume. The inside is 10.5 inches wide and 14 inches deep, giving a volume of about 610 cubic inches. Rich
  7. The inside of my forge is 14" wide at the floor, 17" long which would give it a volume of about 425 cubic inches. I have a brick wall to cover the front. I used bricks that were intended to be insulating (the first picture), not the fireplace brick (the second picture). Since I have not used it yet so I don't know just how insulating it is or not. Thanks for the info about the flair too. Rich The pictures went in backwards, but I think you know what I mean. Rich
  8. Alan, Thanks for the info. I will try that. I went with the reducer for a flair because I saw a lot of burner designs that used a reducer used on black pipes and it was bell-shaped. Do they have a problem with the shape? Rich
  9. Thanks for the tips. I will try the back pressure. Eventually, this will be in my little forge (see picture). Its a stainless steel trash can lined with insulating brick. Doug, the tube is 1/16" steel. The color is a trick of the light but it would be a cool color to have. It was an old steel post or something. I burned off the paint and sanded it. When I was burning off the paint with a propane torch the steel did not even turn red despite the high heat. The flair is a stainless steel reducer intended for a car exhaust system. Rich
  10. I made this burner from scrap parts. The regulator goes up to 60 psi but I was told it did not regulate flow rate. I started low when the flame would back up the tube and advanced it until it did not, but then it blew itself out without the choke. Right now I am using it on the bench until I get this resolved. What if I backed the nozzle out to capture more air before I replace the orifice? I suppose I could replace the nozzle with a thinner pipe.
  11. Maybe my burner should be called Mini-Mongo style, I don't know. Rich
  12. Thanks for your reply. When I lower the pressure the flame goes down the tube.
  13. Hello, I am new to forges and knife making. I built a forge and now I am trying to make the burner work. The burner is like a mini Trex style. Initially I had a propane supply issue that caused the flame to be inside the tube. I got a 60 psi regulator and an unrestricted connector to the tank. Now I am having trouble keeping it lit at different orifice sizes, and different pressures. The burner works fine if I close down the choke a little, but if I open it the burner blows itself out. I don't understand why this is happening or what I can do to
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