Emery White

Yea I'll snap it up if the people decide to buy it. I found out it's a 350-400 lb anvil.

I finished the Hori Hori knife. I used Tulipwood, wrought iron, and micarta for the handle. I was surprised how sharp the serrations are and how well it held up! The customer was very happy with it. Cheers! Emery

Thank you! I used a guillotine tool and worked it really slow lol

I just finished up a pipe tomahawk today. I forged it out of a peice of 1inch Dom pipe with ¼inch walls, slit it down the middle and forge welded a 1080 bit. The handle is charred hickory with a damascus smoke plug. I put a sliver of leather between the bowl and the handle to create a better seal. WFF

Whoops. The chasing Hammer pic wasn't supposed to be there

Hey, I have an opportunity to purchase what seems to be a star power hammer. It is in extreme disrepair. It has a broken pulley and God knows what else is wrong with it. There is a chance I could buy a new cam (I think Is what its called) and pulley from the guy but it think it is a little giant. Is this worth it for me to buy? It costs me over 40 bucks to drive out there alone. I was thinking of asking scrap price for it so if i can't fix it I can scrap it and get my money out of it. I have all of the tools to restore it like a surface grinder, lathe belt grinder and stuff like that (no milling machine:(). Im not afraid of a lot of work but i dont want to pour money into it either. What is a good price, if I should get it at all? Also any advice for restoring a machine like that? Are the drill press (in the power hammer pic), anvil and cone mandrel any good? What should I offer on those? Thanks! WFF

Thanks. It yields a pretty good end product.

Started a custom order for a customer today. Cut and ground from 8670. I'm still working on some serrations for the blade. One side got a little warm while u was grinding it but its pre HT so it should be all good. Don't worry, I am going to round the corners of the shoulder to prevent a sharp angle an possible breakage. The customer wants a canarywood handle on it... should be pretty interesting. Cheers! WFF

I forged this hammer about a month ago. It is 1045 steel ground to its final shape. The handle is a plain hickory handle from the store. I burned it using lichtenstein burning. I used a microwave transformer to do so. I did a lot of research before attempting this. Be warned it is dangerous and should not be attempted. This is not a how to guide, just showing off cool hammer. I used 2 part gorrilla epoxy with blue food coloring for the epoxy. I finished it off with a special beeswax and linseed oil mixture. I'm working on annother one for a friend. I'll upload it when I am finished with it.

Here is the knife all finished up. Buckeye burl, oak, purpleheart and a pine dowel for the handle. I drill out the handle on the lathe because I can get a more precise hole that way. I am going to sell it at a farmers market tomorrow. Wish me luck! Emery

Here are pictures of the knife being glued and the results of the gluing. I did this last night. Everything is cured and I'm on to the shaping.

Hi guys, These are some kitchen knives I have been working on for the past week. I thought I would post them and my process. I start with cutting out the pattern on some saw blades. I use saw blades that are made from 8670. I cut them out using a 14 inch chop saw. I use it almost the reverse way you use an angle grinder. I hold the saw blade and push it into the blade. DO NOT TRY THIS!!! I only do it this way because it saves me a ton of money by not having to buy angle grinder disks and because it is 3x or 4x faster. I have almost lost several fingers to this machine. From there I profile and bevel on my 2x72 belt grinder leaving about .040 thou on the edge. Next is heat treating in my kiln. I heat 8670 to 1450°f and then quench in heated motor oil. After this the blades go into two 2 hour tempering cycles at 400°f. I grind the blades vertically (blade pointed down) by hand from this stage to ensure a consistent cutting edge. It gives me absolute perfect geometry and a good finish off the grinder. You can see the way the grit scratches run on the bevel of the blade how I grind. I am preparing the handle material for glue up. To ensure a perfectly centered handle I drill them on the metal lathe. Thank you for taking the time to read this post. I will keep y'all updated! Emery from White Fox Forge

Thanks! It does work but the lead mounted around the punch bit and made it slightly wiggly. Next time I'll just turn a solid punch and fit it to the casing as a sleeve.

Thanks. I got my inspiration from Tymothy Dyck. He made one but didn't shoe his process.

Not sure if this is in the right topic. Here is a center punch I made out of a .50 cal BMG casing. I bored out the primer to about .660 thou and turned a plug out of 5160 to relieve the blows of the hammer instead of the brass. I then soldered it on. This step is pretty important. Next I poured molten lead into the casing and put the "bullet" that I made in so that it was solidified in the lead. The bullet was also made from a piece of coil spring and turned on the lathe. I wish I would have gotten pictures of the process but I always forget to do that smh. I was unable to find any tutorials online on how to do this. I don't know if there is a better way to do it or not. Hope this can be an inspiration to some people. Cheers! Emery

That may be it. I think I forgot to grind off the scale/ decarb from HT smh. I'll grind through that and see if it'll be sharper. I'm also working on restoring a craftsman 10" wet wheel grinder. Just oiling and wirewheeling everything. The stone is just slightly out of round so I'm going tj have to make a jig to true it up. I'm also thinking of making a jig for sharpening similar to the wen or tormek. There is very little information on this machine much less restoration/ replacement of parts on the internet. I'll try sharpening on that and see how it works.

Thank you for the comments and criteques. I agree about the edge being thinner. I had trouble with the thickness of the edge. I ground it to about .030" which I know is far too wide for a kitchen knife. I get nervous grinding thin bevels post HT and keeping them cool. My next one will have a far thinner edge than this one. I am also struggling to get it RAZOR sharp. I can do it on other knives but it seems to be just beyond reach in this case. Here are pictures which I added the dimensions of the knife to. The knife blade thickness is roughly .100"

Thank you. I am going to show my grandmother next time I see her. I think she will appreciate it and be able to critique it well. She is from Japan and used to work with those kind of knives in an expensive restaurant.

I made a Gyuto kitchen knife today. It is the first kitchen knife I have ever made. The blade is forged from 8670 steel. The handle is stabilized and dyed buckeye burl and double dyed oak. I used a BLO and beeswax mixture to protect both the knife and handle from oxidants. This is also the first octagonal Wa handle I have made. Thoughts? Comments? Criteques? Cheers! Emery

I wanted to make a layout fluid with little cost from things I have laying around. Thank you for the advice about dyes. Cheers! Emery

Ok. I made two batches of layout fluid. The second one only needs some dye. I am thinking of possibly a red color. What color would you recommend i try, Alan?

Thank you. I think next time I'll go with a lighter color to make it easier to see the lines.

About a week ago I was out making a knife for a family member and the sharpie I was using as layout fluid kept smudging so i couldnt see my scribe lines. It was quite frustrating so I decided to make my own layout fluid. I did some research and watched a couple YouTube videos. From what information I could gather it seems that most layout fluids are made from alcohol and a sort of lacquer. This is the recipe i found to work the best: 4 oz of denatured alcohol. 2 oz of Bullseye shellac. 1/4 oz of Feibing's Royal Blue Pro leather dye. Of course you could use other colors or even diferent dies but this is what i had on hand. I am not sure how it withstands heat however I do know that it is extremely water resistant. I apply a thin coat of it with a paintbrush and let it dry for 10 minutes. It is imperative that you wash the paintbrush out afterwards to avoid ruining the bristles. Let me know if this helps! Cheers! Emery

I really like the pattern weld design on this one. You are really gifted. I'm impressed. How long does it take you to make a knife like that?

I will definitely check those out. Thank you for your useful insight.