Jump to content

Steve Gilligan

Members
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This is a freebie knife for someone at work.. I haven't bought leatherworking tools yet. So I'm just giving him this knife without a sheath as soon as I close on my house I'll start picking up leatherworking stuff.. I'm glad you liked it...
  2. The grind lines aren't very stright and I screwed up the plunge line on one side. This is the longest blade I made so far. I have a 1x30 and a 3x18 belt sander. Not the most optimal choices for blade smithing but I'm still new. Constructive feedback will be appreciated. Any grinding tips? Anything?
  3. This is not the spring steel I was working on, that's still on the bench for those that read my last post. This is made out of a bolt from work. It hardened up. It's a freebie for someone I work with. I still have a few more freebie knives that I promised out. After that I'm not taking anymore requests for knives. And no more mystery steel. And no more freebie knives. Too much goes into them to give them away. Tried a brass liner from Lowes. Looks nice but it's way too thin. I'm learning something new on every knife and having fun. I just wish I had more time in the f
  4. Okay, I got some leaf springs off an old car hauler trailer which I assume to be 5160. My buddie at work wanted wanted a knife. I finally got the general shape down and am about to quench. I heard 5160 can be trickey to quench sometimes. So is there any advice you guys and gals can offer me before I go in the oil? And can I temper in my regular oven? What temperature and time do you recommend? Quenching in canola oil.
  5. What happens if you use non-stabilized wood your knife scales?
  6. Second knife ever... On the sanding and polishing stage.. handle is going to be solid oak of courtesy the Lowes hard wood flooring department. Sanding at 220 grit right now... Far less cosmetic f ups then my last one.. I'm pretty happy so far.. a tanto is a far more complicated grind then I expected. But then I didn't know what to expect.. o don't get much time in the forge but I like the time I do get... Not sure if this is the right area for this part.. if not please excuse me... Will post when finished...
  7. Yeah I was initially talking about just a general angle to do the grind at but I didn't think about the various different types of uses for knives I mean I'm sure if you ground one at a low angle and it's real thin it wouldn't make a good chopper but it would make a good vegetable cutter per se, where if you take the angle up a little higher it would have more steel backing the blade up and make like a good chopper like a camp knife or something.. I am almost ready to grind my next blade (2nd knife ever) I tried to make it a tanto.. I have a few cosmetic errors in this one but definitely an im
  8. I was looking for a sticky on sharpening, or I think they're called pinned posts here? But I'm sure this topic has been visited once or twice. What's a good angle to do the in initial profile grind on the belt sander? I think I ground my first blade at too high of an angle. To get just the edge on the sharpening stone I have to have it at like almost 45 degree angle. It can cut paper but not much else with ease. I was looking at a knife sharpener system thingy I seen on Facebook and was wondering if anyone used this and if it's worth the money. It has whetstones up to
  9. I have a co detector down there... And it's pretty big and I have a fan...
  10. Im not a daily active member on here or forging... I noticed this last week but been kinda feeling like shit lately.. I'll give a brief explanation of my "shop" and experience... I have a 1x30 50 dollar belt sander from harbor freight.. I have a punch and chisel set also harbor freight (I actually hardened them like a would a blade add they don't bend anymore I can't believe they wouldn't even harden them), I have a file set from there also. My anvil is a Fisher Norris eagle 120lb made between 1860 and 1866... (Fisher eagle museum helped me with this) I had
  11. I'm sorry but can you give me a brief explanation on the difference here?
  12. Ok.. so quenching: Could you achieve different levels of hardness based on if you quench in oil or water? Or is it just oil will harden one type of steel and not the other? Normalization: Does every type of steel benefit from this? Can I over normalize? I read a post where Alan said "competition blades he normalizes 12 times before quenching" not verbatim... I think the steel was 52100.. should this be a good thing to do on every knife you want the best quality out of? Sorry for two different style questions in one post.. didn't want clutter th
  13. Every three months or 3000 miles... No, seriously how do you know if it's your oil that's not fully hardening your steel or some other variable? About how many quenches can you get out of a bottle of canola oil?
  14. It was a structural bolt for buildings. It has .35-.58 carbon content. If I remember correctly 1% and above is best for knives?? Not really sure the number on that. But I did get it to harden. I get these bolts for free as I'm an ironworker so it's nice practice for me. All I gotta pay for is the propane. I'll save the costly better metals for when I get better.
×
×
  • Create New...