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About PS_Bond

  • Birthday 06/20/1970

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    Jewellery making, leatherwork, bladesmithing, shooting, horse riding...

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  1. Not a huge amount to add - but I haven't seen any suggestions of possibly exhausting the flux. The longer you hold the thing at heat the more oxygen the flux has to react with... As already mentioned, I heat the opposite side from the joint first, then once there's a decent bit of heat in it, start to circle the ring with the torch flame - concentrating on the metal, not the joint (yes, the joint gets wafted but not much direct heat). Get it hot fast, don't pussyfoot around. And as Jon says, stay away from the easy solder; hard will flow like water through the capillary gap you should be aiming for - easy doesn't flow nicely at all. Just spent my past week off full-time work at my bench morning, noon & night. Lots of soldering, filing, sawing and a bit of engraving; not much hammering. *Very* therapeutic - although I finally tried "Magic Boric", a firestain preventative, for the first time... I'm *so* impressed by the results that I'm going straight back to using Argotect or boric acid in methanol despite the fire hazard.
  2. PS_Bond


    FWIW... That style of ring stretcher I only use for resizing stone-set rings. For everything else, it's a ring mandrel with either a steel hammer (for a lot of movement) or a hide mallet (which is invariably my start point for making them round). There are a couple of other stretchers that are usable for wide-band rings - but not stone set: This style, which is bench mounted and more expensive: (currently coveting the Durston version!) Or this style - which is cheap and cheerful, but not desperately good quality: There's also this, which I loathe - too hit & miss: BTW John - a) Cooksons usually do ring-diameter seamless tubing, but you need to phone them; B ) spot on with the swaging, but I don't think the Loctite was needed! Oh yes - stunt for getting rings properly round on a mandrel: When you think it is round, look inside the ring at the contact marks. They should be even all the way round. Also, flip the ring over so it is evened out - otherwise they'll taper with the mandrel (not an issue with narrow rings, naturally).
  3. I use mine a fair bit; the only caveat on Lee's saws is if you're doing a lot of piercing (cutting out internal shapes) then the standard screw top is very slow to undo & redo (for an eternity ring I completed a wee while ago, I ended up swapping back to one of my older sawframes because of that). The lever tensioner version gets around that. The rigidity of the frame is very good, but is particularly noticeable in the larger sizes, where frame flex is a lot worse on the more traditional designs. As for blades - buy the best (usually the more expensive ones!). The cheap selection packs that you see around are invariably not terribly good; they either break quickly or blunt. All the Swiss ones I've used have been very good; if you're cutting steel (for tsuba for example) then I've found blades meant for platinum work are good. Buy lots, you'll break them Do lube the blade - although I find that if I cut into the block of wax with the blade, the teeth end up packed with wax + filings, so I always lube the back & sides of the blade. Doesn't need much, just an occasional wipe. Above all, don't force the saw - let it cut under its own weight, more or less; if you want to change direction, march the saw in place and turn it gradually so it cuts its way around to the new direction.
  4. Can't think where you might be referring to... Moderating is never easy. There's always someone who believes they have been wronged, could do it better and so on. The owner of the forum sets the tone, standards and ethics for the rest of the forum members - which is a good deal of the reason why this place works so well. In my - as always - ever-so-humble opinion!
  5. You're welcome! I have *got* to get myself a lathe soon - far too many ideas where I keep hitting the same problem. Well, that and lack of time...
  6. Not exactly high-tech (precision, reproduceability etc.), but possibly useful - http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevenson.eng...ing_grinder.pdf
  7. PS_Bond

    Tessen question

    Casting might be easier, but he wants to be able to flick it open if I've understood it correctly. I don't regard the ribs & the pivot as much of an issue, it's really just the silk... I *think* what I'm likely to do is cut it in 2 arcs, paint it and then accordion fold it (maybe with the judicious application of starch - probably after atttaching it). None of the pictures of fans or tessen I've seen have had anything other than silk or paper visible on one side, no evidence of a retaining bar.
  8. PS_Bond

    Tessen question

    The picture's in my head too now Thanks Dan!
  9. PS_Bond

    Tessen question

    Just on the offchance... I've been asked to make a tessen for display work. OK, so it's a fan with metal ribs; and that's about where my knowledge of them ends. Presumably silk for the fan itself, but I can't see glue (rice or otherwise) being adequate for attaching the silk to the ribs - nor would I expect it to take the abuse that it is likely to receive in demonstrations. Does anyone have any suggestions or pointers on where I can find out more about the construction of them?
  10. My copy of that is winging it's way to Kent at the moment. So *hopefully* Colin can be conned, er, persuaded into doing the grunt work to get them up & running...
  11. Should've said, Dan - could have got you in the water at Plymouth Not sure... I don't think there are any issues with water being wicked into the laminate, are there? Or use brass rivets. Never found the need so far - although I do like part-serrated dive knives. Monofil netting is a PITA, especially if a student gets caught up in it. I'm probably going to be making up some sheaths for my dive club in the imminent future (complete with the threat of sending them off to Dive magazine for review - honestly, it's as if these people have never seen Kydex before... Ah, perhaps they haven't) - the rigging method they prefer this week is on the BCD hose for small knives; so these will be rivetted & cable tied onto the rigs.
  12. Related - kind of: Ian Ferguson's book on mokume gane has some examples of Ti/Fe mokume in the colour plates at the back IIRC. Of course, that would be using his 25 ton press/muffle furnace/nitrogen bleed setup which may or may not fall within your definition of forge welding...
  13. That's an impressive shower of sparks! As far as the flint goes, I just use a smallish bit with an edge; in striking, you're trying to get a glancing blow across the edge to shave some steel off. A sort of loose-wristed (not limp) flick across with steel tends to work best for me. Put some charcloth over the top of the flint, hold it in place with your thumb and go for it - the sparks should land on the charcloth... From there, the rest of the fire is easy (for certain values of easy). Garage door springs at full hard is what I tend to make mine out of. They don't much like being dropped on concrete as a result.
  14. I've been using either a Japanese keyhole saw or a modified jigsaw (sabre saw?) blade with the back ground down (and a handle fitted, natch). Seemed less work than soldering blades together, although it is only about 3" long.
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